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teaching is duty。 It is a fine ideal for any people； but before
buckling to it； one would wish to have a clear understanding as to
what this 〃duty〃 is。 The German idea of it would appear to be：
〃blind obedience to everything in buttons。〃 It is the antithesis
of the Anglo…Saxon scheme； but as both the Anglo…Saxon and the
Teuton are prospering； there must be good in both methods。
Hitherto； the German has had the blessed fortune to be
exceptionally well governed； if this continue； it will go well with
him。 When his troubles will begin will be when by any chance
something goes wrong with the governing machine。 But maybe his
method has the advantage of producing a continuous supply of good
governors； it would certainly seem so。
As a trader； I am inclined to think the German will； unless his
temperament considerably change； remain always a long way behind
his Anglo…Saxon competitor； and this by reason of his virtues。 To
him life is something more important than a mere race for wealth。
A country that closes its banks and post…offices for two hours in
the middle of the day； while it goes home and enjoys a comfortable
meal in the bosom of its family； with； perhaps； forty winks by way
of dessert； cannot hope； and possibly has no wish； to compete with
a people that takes its meals standing； and sleeps with a telephone
over its bed。 In Germany there is not； at all events as yet；
sufficient distinction between the classes to make the struggle for
position the life and death affair it is in England。 Beyond the
landed aristocracy； whose boundaries are impregnable； grade hardly
counts。 Frau Professor and Frau Candlestickmaker meet at the
Weekly Kaffee…Klatsch and exchange scandal on terms of mutual
equality。 The livery…stable keeper and the doctor hobnob together
at their favourite beer hall。 The wealthy master builder； when he
prepares his roomy waggon for an excursion into the country；
invites his foreman and his tailor to join him with their families。
Each brings his share of drink and provisions； and returning home
they sing in chorus the same songs。 So long as this state of
things endures； a man is not induced to sacrifice the best years of
his life to win a fortune for his dotage。 His tastes； and； more to
the point still； his wife's； remain inexpensive。 He likes to see
his flat or villa furnished with much red plush upholstery and a
profusion of gilt and lacquer。 But that is his idea； and maybe it
is in no worse taste than is a mixture of bastard Elizabethan with
imitation Louis XV； the whole lit by electric light； and smothered
with photographs。 Possibly； he will have his outer walls painted
by the local artist： a sanguinary battle； a good deal interfered
with by the front door； taking place below； while Bismarck； as an
angel； flutters vaguely about the bedroom windows。 But for his Old
Masters he is quite content to go to the public galleries； and 〃the
Celebrity at Home〃 not having as yet taken its place amongst the
institutions of the Fatherland； he is not impelled to waste his；
money turning his house into an old curiosity shop。
The German is a gourmand。 There are still English farmers who；
while telling you that farming spells starvation； enjoy their seven
solid meals a day。 Once a year there comes a week's feast
throughout Russia； during which many deaths occur from the over…
eating of pancakes； but this is a religious festival； and an
exception。 Taking him all round； the German as a trencherman
stands pre…eminent among the nations of the earth。 He rises early；
and while dressing tosses off a few cups of coffee； together with
half a dozen hot buttered rolls。 But it is not until ten o'clock
that he sits down to anything that can properly be called a meal。
At one or half…past takes place his chief dinner。 Of this he makes
a business； sitting at it for a couple of hours。 At four o'clock
he goes to the cafe； and eats cakes and drinks chocolate。 The
evening he devotes to eating generallynot a set meal； or rarely；
but a series of snacks；a bottle of beer and a Belegete…semmel or
two at seven； say； another bottle of beer and an Aufschnitt at the
theatre between the acts； a small bottle of white wine and a
Spiegeleier before going home； then a piece of cheese or sausage；
washed down by more beer； previous to turning in for the night。
But he is no gourmet。 French cooks and French prices are not the
rule at his restaurant。 His beer or his inexpensive native white
wine he prefers to the most costly clarets or champagnes。 And；
indeed； it is well for him he does； for one is inclined to think
that every time a French grower sells a bottle of wine to a German
hotel… or shop…keeper； Sedan is rankling in his mind。 It is a
foolish revenge； seeing that it is not the German who as a rule
drinks it； the punishment falls upon some innocent travelling
Englishman。 Maybe； however； the French dealer remembers also
Waterloo； and feels that in any event he scores。
In Germany expensive entertainments are neither offered nor
expected。 Everything throughout the Fatherland is homely and
friendly。 The German has no costly sports to pay for； no showy
establishment to maintain； no purse…proud circle to dress for。 His
chief pleasure； a seat at the opera or concert； can be had for a
few marks； and his wife and daughters walk there in home…made
dresses； with shawls over their heads。 Indeed； throughout the
country the absence of all ostentation is to English eyes quite
refreshing。 Private carriages are few and far between； and even
the droschke is made use of only when the quicker and cleaner
electric car is not available。
By such means the German retains his independence。 The shopkeeper
in Germany does not fawn upon his customers。 I accompanied an
English lady once on a shopping excursion in Munich。 She had been
accustomed to shopping in London and New York； and she grumbled at
everything the man showed her。 It was not that she was really
dissatisfied； this was her method。 She explained that she could
get most things cheaper and better elsewhere； not that she really
thought she could； merely she held it good for the shopkeeper to
say this。 She told him that his stock lacked tasteshe did not
mean to be offensive； as I have explained； it was her method；that
there was no variety about it； that it was not up to date； that it
was commonplace； that it looked as if it would not wear。 He did
not argue with her； he did not contradict her。 He put the things
back into their respective boxes； replaced the boxes on their
respective shelves； walked into the little parlour behind the shop；
and closed the door。
〃Isn't he ever coming back？〃 asked the lady； after a couple of
minutes had elapsed。
Her tone did not imply a question； so much as an exclamation of
mere impatience。
〃I doubt it；〃 I replied。
〃Why not？〃 she asked； much astonished。
〃I expect；〃 I answered； 〃you have bored him。 In all probability he
is at this moment behind that door smoking a pipe and reading the
paper。〃
〃What an extraordinary shopkeeper！〃 said my friend； as she gathered
her parcels together and indignantly walked out。
〃It is their way；〃 I