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and again recommend that they be left behind。 I am inclined to think that the ordinary payment should be made for their use； as otherwise it will appear to those whose trade it is to prepare them that you are injuring them in their vested rights。 Some three years since I visited Niagara on my way back to England from Bermuda； and in a volume of travels which I then published I endeavored to explain the impression made upon me by this passage between the rock and the waterfall。 An author should not quote himself； but as I feel myself bound； in writing a chapter specially about Niagara； to give some account of this strange position； I will venture to repeat my own words。 In the spot to which I allude the visitor stands on a broad； safe path； made of shingles； between the rock over which the water rushes and the rushing water。 He will go in so far that the spray； rising back from the bed of the torrent； does not incommode him。 With this exception； the farther he can go in the better； but circumstances will clearly show him the spot to which he should advance。 Unless the water be driven in by a very strong wind； five yards make the difference between a comparatively dry coat and an absolutely wet one。 And then let him stand with his back to the entrance； thus hiding the last glimmer of the expiring day。 So standing； he will look up among the falling waters； or down into the deep； misty pit； from which they re…ascend in almost as palpable a bulk。 The rock will be at his right hand； high and hard； and dark and straight； like the wall of some huge cavern； such as children enter in their dreams。 For the first five minutes he will be looking but at the waters of a cataractat the waters； indeed； of such a cataract as we know no other； and at their interior curves which elsewhere we cannot see。 But by…and…by all this will change。 He will no longer be on a shingly path beneath a waterfall； but that feeling of a cavern wall will grow upon him； of a cavern deep； below roaring seas； in which the waves are there； though they do not enter in upon him； or rather； not the waves； but the very bowels of the ocean。 He will feel as though the floods surrounded him； coming and going with their wild sounds； and he will hardly recognize that though among them he is not in them。 And they； as they fall with a continual roar； not hurting the ear； but musical withal； will seem to move as the vast ocean waters may perhaps move in their internal currents。 He will lose the sense of one continued descent； and think that they are passing round him in their appointed courses。 The broken spray that rises from the depths below； rises so strongly； so palpably； so rapidly that the motion in every direction will seem equal。 And； as he looks on； strange colors will show themselves through the mist； the shades of gray will become green or blue； with ever and anon a flash of white； and then； when some gust of wind blows in with greater violence； the sea…girt cavern will become all dark and black。 Oh； my friend； let there be no one there to speak to thee then； no； not even a brother。 As you stand there speak only to the waters。 Two miles below the falls the river is crossed by a suspension bridge of marvelous construction。 It affords two thoroughfares； one above the other。 The lower road is for carriages and horses； and the upper one bears a railway belonging to the Great Western Canada Line。 The view from hence； both up and down the river； is very beautiful； for the bridge is built immediately over the first of a series of rapids。 One mile below the bridge these rapids end in a broad basin called the whirlpool； and； issuing out of this； the current turns to the right through a narrow channel overhung by cliffs and trees； and then makes its way down to Lake Ontario with comparative tranquillity。 But I will beg you to take notice of those rapids from the bridge； and to ask yourself what chance of life would remain to any ship； craft； or boat required by destiny to undergo navigation beneath the bridge and down into that whirlpool。 Heretofore all men would have said that no chance of life could remain to so ill…starred a bark。 The navigation； however； has been effected。 But men used to the river still say that the chances would be fifty to one against any vessel which should attempt to repeat the experiment。 The story of that wondrous voyage was as follows： A small steamer； called the Maid of the Mist； was built upon the river； between the falls and the rapids； and was used for taking adventurous tourists up amid the spray as near to the cataract as was possible。 〃The Maid of the Mist plied in this way for a year or two； and was； I believe； much patronized during the season。 But in the early part of last summer an evil time had come。 Either the Maid got into debt； or her owner had embarked in other and less profitable speculations。 At any rate； he became subject to the law； and tidings reached him that the sheriff would seize the Maid。 On most occasions the sheriff is bound to keep such intentions secret； seeing that property is movable； and that an insolvent debtor will not always await the officers of justice。 But with the poor Maid there was no need of such secrecy。 There was but a mile or so of water on which she could ply； and she was forbidden by the nature of her properties to make any way upon land； The sheriff's prey； therefore； was easy； and the poor Maid was doomed。 In any country in the world but America such would have been the case； but an American would steam down Phlegethon to save his property from the sheriffhe would steam down Phlegethon； or get some one else to do it for him。 Whether or no； in this case； the captain of the boat was the proprietor； or whether； as I was told； he was paid for the job； I do not know。 But he determined to run the rapids； and he procured two others to accompany him in the risk。 He got up his steam； and took the Maid up amid the spray according to his custom。 Then； suddenly turning on his course； he； with one of his companions； fixed himself at the wheel； while the other remained at his engine。 I wish I could look into the mind of that man； and understand what his thoughts were at that moment what were his thoughts and what his beliefs。 As to one of the men； I was told that he was carried down not knowing what he was about to do but I am inclined to believe that all the three were joined together in the attempt。 I was told by a man who saw the boat pass under the bridge that she made one long leap down； as she came thither； that her funnel was at once knocked flat on the deck by the force of the blow； that the waters covered her from stem to stern； and that then she rose again； and skimmed into the whirlpool a mile below。 When there she rode with comparative ease upon the waters； and took the sharp turn round into the river below without a struggle。 The feat was done； and the Maid was rescued from the sheriff。 It is said that she was sold below at the mouth of the river； and carried from thence over Lake Ontario； and down the St。 Lawrence to Quebec。
CHAPTER VIII。 NORTH AND WEST。
From Niagara we determined to proceed Northwestas far to the Northwest as we could go with any reasonable h