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an autobiography-第76章

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ch helped him forward in the completion of the locomotives。  We also supplied many of our special machine tools; without which engines could not then be very satisfactorily made or kept in repair。  In this way I was in all respects highly remunerated for my journey。

The enjoyment of my visit to St。 Petersburg was much enhanced by frequent visits to my much valued friend General Alexander Wilson。 He was a native of Edinburgh; and delighted to enjoy cracks with me upon subjects of mutual interest。  His sister; who kept house for him; joined in our conversation。  She had been married to the Emperor Paul's physician; who was also a Scotsman; and was able to narrate many terrible events in relation to Russian Court affairs。  The General had worked his way upwards; like the rest of us。  During the principal part of his life he had superintended the great mechanical establishments at Alexandrosky and Colpenha; where about 3000 operatives were employed。 These establishments were originally founded by the Empress Catherine for the purpose of creating a native manufacturing population capable of carrying on textile and mechanical works of all kinds。 The sail…cloth for the Russian navy was manufactured at Alexandrosky by excellent machinery。  Cotton fabrics were also manufactured; as well as playing cards; which were a Crown monopoly。  The great establishment at Colpenha consisted of a foundry; a machine manufactory; and a mint where the copper money of the empire was coined。  General Wilson was the directing chief officer of all these establishments。

Through him I had the happiness of being introduced to General Greg; son of the great admiral who shed such honour on the Russian flag during the reign of the Empress Catherine。  He was then well advanced in years; but full of keen intelligence and devoted to astronomical pursuits。  He was in a great measure the founder of the Imperial Observatory at Pulkowa; situated on an appropriate eminence about eight miles from St。 Petersburg。  The observatory was furnished under his directions with the most magnificent astronomical instruments。 I had the honour to be introduced by him to the elder Struve; whose astronomical labours procured him a well…earned reputation throughout Europe。  I had the rare happiness of spending some nights with Struve; when he showed me the wonderful capabilities of his fine instruments。 The observatory is quite imperial in its arrangement and management; and was supported in the most liberal manner by the Emperor Nicholas。 Indeed; it is a perfect example of what so noble an establishment should be。

Struve most kindly invited me to come whenever the state of the weather permitted him to show forth the wonderful perfection of his instruments;a rare chance; which I seized every opportunity of enjoying。  It was quite a picture to see the keen interest and intense enjoyment with which the profound astronomer would seat himself at his instrument and pick out some exquisite test objects; such as the double stars in Virgo; Cygnus; or Ursa Major。  The beautiful order and neatness with which the instruments were kept in their magnificent appropriate apartments; each having its appropriate observer proceeding quietly with his allotted special work; with nothing to break the silence but the 〃tick; tack!〃 of the sidereal clockthis was indeed a most impressive sight!  And the kindly companionable manner of the great master of the establishment was in all respects in harmony with the astronomical work which he conducted in this great Temple of the Universe!

Through my friendship with General Wilson I was enabled to extend my acquaintance with many of my countrymen who had been long settled at St。 Petersburg in connection with commercial affairs。  I enjoyed their kind hospitality; and soon found myself quite at home amongst them。 I remained in the city for about two months。  During that time I was constantly about。  The shops; the streets; the houses; the museums; were objects of great interest。  The view of the magnificent buildings along the sides of the quay is very imposing。  Looking from the front of the statue of Peter the Great you observe the long facade of the Admiralty; the column of Alexander; the Winter Palace; and other public buildings。  The Neva flows in front of them in a massive volume of pure water。  On an island opposite stands the citadel。  The whole presents a coup d'oeil of unexampled architectural magnificence。

I was much interested by the shops and their signboards。 The latter were fixed all over the fronts of the shops; and contained a delineation of the goods sold within。 There was no necessity for reading。  The pictorial portraits told their own tale。 They were admirable specimens of what is called still…life pictures; not only as regards the drawing and colouring of each object; but with respect to the grouping; which was in most cases artistic and natural。 Two reasons were given me for this style of artistic sign…painting: one was that many of the people could not read the written words defining the articles sold within; and the other was that the severe and long…continued frosts of the St。 Petersburg winter rendered large shop windows impossible for the proper display of the goods。 Hence the small shop…windows to keep out the cold; and the large painted signboards to display the articles sold inside。

I was also greatly pleased with the manner in which the Russians employ ivy in screening their windows during summer。  Ivy is a beautiful plant; and is capable of forming a most elegant window…screen。 Nothing can be more beautiful than to look through green leaves。 Nearly every window of the ground flat of the houses in St。 Petersburg is thus screened。  The neat manner in which the ivy plants are trained over ornamental forms of cane is quite a study in its way。  And though the ivy is very common; yet a common thing; being a thing of beauty; may be a 〃joy for ever。〃  In the finer and most important mansions; the sides of the flight of wide steps that lead up to the reception rooms were beautifully decorated by oleander plants; growing in great vigour; with their fine flowers as fresh as if in a carefully…kept conservatory。  Other plants of an ornamental kind were mixed with the oleander; but the latter appeared to be the favourite。*  'footnote。。。 While passing through Lubeck on my way out to St。 Petersburg I was much struck with the taste for flower…plants displayed by the people of that old…world city。  The inner side of the lower house windows were all beautifully decorated with flowers; which were evidently well cared for。  Some of the windows were almost made up with flowers。 Perhaps the long…continued winter of these parts has caused the people to study and practise within…door culture with such marked success。 It is a most elegant pursuit; and should be cultivated everywhere。 It is thoroughly in character with the exquisite cleanliness and tidiness of the houses at Lubeck。  。。。'

About the end of my visit I was about to call upon one of my customers with reference to my machine tools; for though I pursued pleasure at occasional times; I never lost sight of business。  It was a very dull day; and the streets about the Winter Palace were al
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