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laid along the face of the town； but the sea…freedom stops short
there； surrendering the salt tide to the needs； the artifices； the
contrivances of toiling men。 Wharves； landing…places； dock…gates；
waterside stairs； follow each other continuously right up to London
Bridge； and the hum of men's work fills the river with a menacing；
muttering note as of a breathless； ever…driving gale。 The water…
way； so fair above and wide below； flows oppressed by bricks and
mortar and stone； by blackened timber and grimed glass and rusty
iron； covered with black barges； whipped up by paddles and screws；
overburdened with craft； overhung with chains； overshadowed by
walls making a steep gorge for its bed； filled with a haze of smoke
and dust。
This stretch of the Thames from London Bridge to the Albert Docks
is to other watersides of river ports what a virgin forest would be
to a garden。 It is a thing grown up； not made。 It recalls a
jungle by the confused； varied； and impenetrable aspect of the
buildings that line the shore； not according to a planned purpose；
but as if sprung up by accident from scattered seeds。 Like the
matted growth of bushes and creepers veiling the silent depths of
an unexplored wilderness； they hide the depths of London's
infinitely varied； vigorous； seething life。 In other river ports
it is not so。 They lie open to their stream； with quays like broad
clearings； with streets like avenues cut through thick timber for
the convenience of trade。 I am thinking now of river ports I have
seen … of Antwerp； for instance； of Nantes or Bordeaux； or even old
Rouen； where the night…watchmen of ships； elbows on rail； gaze at
shop…windows and brilliant cafes； and see the audience go in and
come out of the opera…house。 But London； the oldest and greatest
of river ports； does not possess as much as a hundred yards of open
quays upon its river front。 Dark and impenetrable at night； like
the face of a forest； is the London waterside。 It is the waterside
of watersides； where only one aspect of the world's life can be
seen； and only one kind of men toils on the edge of the stream。
The lightless walls seem to spring from the very mud upon which the
stranded barges lie； and the narrow lanes coming down to the
foreshore resemble the paths of smashed bushes and crumbled earth
where big game comes to drink on the banks of tropical streams。
Behind the growth of the London waterside the docks of London
spread out unsuspected； smooth； and placid； lost amongst the
buildings like dark lagoons hidden in a thick forest。 They lie
concealed in the intricate growth of houses with a few stalks of
mastheads here and there overtopping the roof of some four…story
warehouse。
It is a strange conjunction this of roofs and mastheads； of walls
and yard…arms。 I remember once having the incongruity of the
relation brought home to me in a practical way。 I was the chief
officer of a fine ship； just docked with a cargo of wool from
Sydney； after a ninety days' passage。 In fact； we had not been in
more than half an hour and I was still busy making her fast to the
stone posts of a very narrow quay in front of a lofty warehouse。
An old man with a gray whisker under the chin and brass buttons on
his pilot…cloth jacket； hurried up along the quay hailing my ship
by name。 He was one of those officials called berthing…masters …
not the one who had berthed us； but another； who； apparently； had
been busy securing a steamer at the other end of the dock。 I could
see from afar his hard blue eyes staring at us； as if fascinated；
with a queer sort of absorption。 I wondered what that worthy sea…
dog had found to criticise in my ship's rigging。 And I； too；
glanced aloft anxiously。 I could see nothing wrong there。 But
perhaps that superannuated fellow…craftsman was simply admiring the
ship's perfect order aloft； I thought； with some secret pride； for
the chief officer is responsible for his ship's appearance； and as
to her outward condition； he is the man open to praise or blame。
Meantime the old salt （〃ex…coasting skipper〃 was writ large all
over his person） had hobbled up alongside in his bumpy； shiny
boots； and； waving an arm； short and thick like the flipper of a
seal； terminated by a paw red as an uncooked beef…steak； addressed
the poop in a muffled； faint； roaring voice； as if a sample of
every North…Sea fog of his life had been permanently lodged in his
throat： 〃Haul 'em round； Mr。 Mate！〃 were his words。 〃If you don't
look sharp； you'll have your topgallant yards through the windows
of that 'ere warehouse presently！〃 This was the only cause of his
interest in the ship's beautiful spars。 I own that for a time I
was struck dumb by the bizarre associations of yard…arms and
window…panes。 To break windows is the last thing one would think
of in connection with a ship's topgallant yard； unless； indeed； one
were an experienced berthing…master in one of the London docks。
This old chap was doing his little share of the world's work with
proper efficiency。 His little blue eyes had made out the danger
many hundred yards off。 His rheumaticky feet； tired with balancing
that squat body for many years upon the decks of small coasters；
and made sore by miles of tramping upon the flagstones of the dock
side； had hurried up in time to avert a ridiculous catastrophe。 I
answered him pettishly； I fear； and as if I had known all about it
before。
〃All right； all right！ can't do everything at once。〃
He remained near by； muttering to himself till the yards had been
hauled round at my order； and then raised again his foggy； thick
voice：
〃None too soon；〃 he observed； with a critical glance up at the
towering side of the warehouse。 〃That's a half…sovereign in your
pocket； Mr。 Mate。 You should always look first how you are for
them windows before you begin to breast in your ship to the quay。〃
It was good advice。 But one cannot think of everything or foresee
contacts of things apparently as remote as stars and hop…poles。
XXXII。
The view of ships lying moored in some of the older docks of London
has always suggested to my mind the image of a flock of swans kept
in the flooded backyard of grim tenement houses。 The flatness of
the walls surrounding the dark pool on which they float brings out
wonderfully the flowing grace of the lines on which a ship's hull
is built。 The lightness of these forms； devised to meet the winds
and the seas； makes； by contrast with the great piles of bricks；
the chains and cables of their moorings appear very necessary； as
if nothing less could prevent them from soaring upwards and over
the roofs。 The least puff of wind stealing round the corners of
the d