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the mirror of the sea-第31章

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to the town with a population greater than that of some



commonwealths。  The growth of London as a well…equipped port has



been slow; while not unworthy of a great capital; of a great centre



of distribution。  It must not be forgotten that London has not the



backing of great industrial districts or great fields of natural



exploitation。  In this it differs from Liverpool; from Cardiff;



from Newcastle; from Glasgow; and therein the Thames differs from



the Mersey; from the Tyne; from the Clyde。  It is an historical



river; it is a romantic stream flowing through the centre of great



affairs; and for all the criticism of the river's administration;



my contention is that its development has been worthy of its



dignity。  For a long time the stream itself could accommodate quite



easily the oversea and coasting traffic。  That was in the days



when; in the part called the Pool; just below London Bridge; the



vessels moored stem and stern in the very strength of the tide



formed one solid mass like an island covered with a forest of



gaunt; leafless trees; and when the trade had grown too big for the



river there came the St。 Katherine's Docks and the London Docks;



magnificent undertakings answering to the need of their time。  The



same may be said of the other artificial lakes full of ships that



go in and out upon this high road to all parts of the world。  The



labour of the imperial waterway goes on from generation to



generation; goes on day and night。  Nothing ever arrests its



sleepless industry but the coming of a heavy fog; which clothes the



teeming stream in a mantle of impenetrable stillness。







After the gradual cessation of all sound and movement on the



faithful river; only the ringing of ships' bells is heard;



mysterious and muffled in the white vapour from London Bridge right



down to the Nore; for miles and miles in a decrescendo tinkling; to



where the estuary broadens out into the North Sea; and the anchored



ships lie scattered thinly in the shrouded channels between the



sand…banks of the Thames' mouth。  Through the long and glorious



tale of years of the river's strenuous service to its people these



are its only breathing times。















XXXIII。















A ship in dock; surrounded by quays and the walls of warehouses;



has the appearance of a prisoner meditating upon freedom in the



sadness of a free spirit put under restraint。  Chain cables and



stout ropes keep her bound to stone posts at the edge of a paved



shore; and a berthing…master; with brass buttons on his coat; walks



about like a weather…beaten and ruddy gaoler; casting jealous;



watchful glances upon the moorings that fetter a ship lying passive



and still and safe; as if lost in deep regrets of her days of



liberty and danger on the sea。







The swarm of renegades … dock…masters; berthing…masters; gatemen;



and such like … appear to nurse an immense distrust of the captive



ship's resignation。  There never seem chains and ropes enough to



satisfy their minds concerned with the safe binding of free ships



to the strong; muddy; enslaved earth。  〃You had better put another



bight of a hawser astern; Mr。 Mate;〃 is the usual phrase in their



mouth。  I brand them for renegades; because most of them have been



sailors in their time。  As if the infirmities of old age … the gray



hair; the wrinkles at the corners of the eyes; and the knotted



veins of the hands … were the symptoms of moral poison; they prowl



about the quays with an underhand air of gloating over the broken



spirit of noble captives。  They want more fenders; more breasting…



ropes; they want more springs; more shackles; more fetters; they



want to make ships with volatile souls as motionless as square



blocks of stone。  They stand on the mud of pavements; these



degraded sea…dogs; with long lines of railway…trucks clanking their



couplings behind their backs; and run malevolent glances over your



ship from headgear to taffrail; only wishing to tyrannize over the



poor creature under the hypocritical cloak of benevolence and care。



Here and there cargo cranes looking like instruments of torture for



ships swing cruel hooks at the end of long chains。  Gangs of dock…



labourers swarm with muddy feet over the gangways。  It is a moving



sight this; of so many men of the earth; earthy; who never cared



anything for a ship; trampling unconcerned; brutal and hob…nailed



upon her helpless body。







Fortunately; nothing can deface the beauty of a ship。  That sense



of a dungeon; that sense of a horrible and degrading misfortune



overtaking a creature fair to see and safe to trust; attaches only



to ships moored in the docks of great European ports。  You feel



that they are dishonestly locked up; to be hunted about from wharf



to wharf on a dark; greasy; square pool of black water as a brutal



reward at the end of a faithful voyage。







A ship anchored in an open roadstead; with cargo…lighters alongside



and her own tackle swinging the burden over the rail; is



accomplishing in freedom a function of her life。  There is no



restraint; there is space:  clear water around her; and a clear sky



above her mastheads; with a landscape of green hills and charming



bays opening around her anchorage。  She is not abandoned by her own



men to the tender mercies of shore people。  She still shelters; and



is looked after by; her own little devoted band; and you feel that



presently she will glide between the headlands and disappear。  It



is only at home; in dock; that she lies abandoned; shut off from



freedom by all the artifices of men that think of quick despatch



and profitable freights。  It is only then that the odious;



rectangular shadows of walls and roofs fall upon her decks; with



showers of soot。







To a man who has never seen the extraordinary nobility; strength;



and grace that the devoted generations of ship…builders have



evolved from some pure nooks of their simple souls; the sight that



could be seen five…and…twenty years ago of a large fleet of



clippers moored along the north side of the New South Dock was an



inspiring spectacle。  Then there was a quarter of a mile of them;



from the iron dockyard…gates guarded by policemen; in a long;



forest…like perspective of masts; moored two and two to many stout



wooden jetties。  Their spars dwarfed with their loftiness the



corrugated…iron sheds; their jibbooms extended far over the shore;



their white…and…gold figure…heads; almost dazzling in their purity;



overhung the straight; long quay above the mud and dirt of the



wharfside; with the busy figures of groups and single men moving to



and fro; restless and grimy under their soaring immobility。







At tide…time you would see one of the loaded ships with battened…



down hatches drop out of the ranks and float in the clear space of



the dock; 
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