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to the town with a population greater than that of some
commonwealths。 The growth of London as a well…equipped port has
been slow; while not unworthy of a great capital; of a great centre
of distribution。 It must not be forgotten that London has not the
backing of great industrial districts or great fields of natural
exploitation。 In this it differs from Liverpool; from Cardiff;
from Newcastle; from Glasgow; and therein the Thames differs from
the Mersey; from the Tyne; from the Clyde。 It is an historical
river; it is a romantic stream flowing through the centre of great
affairs; and for all the criticism of the river's administration;
my contention is that its development has been worthy of its
dignity。 For a long time the stream itself could accommodate quite
easily the oversea and coasting traffic。 That was in the days
when; in the part called the Pool; just below London Bridge; the
vessels moored stem and stern in the very strength of the tide
formed one solid mass like an island covered with a forest of
gaunt; leafless trees; and when the trade had grown too big for the
river there came the St。 Katherine's Docks and the London Docks;
magnificent undertakings answering to the need of their time。 The
same may be said of the other artificial lakes full of ships that
go in and out upon this high road to all parts of the world。 The
labour of the imperial waterway goes on from generation to
generation; goes on day and night。 Nothing ever arrests its
sleepless industry but the coming of a heavy fog; which clothes the
teeming stream in a mantle of impenetrable stillness。
After the gradual cessation of all sound and movement on the
faithful river; only the ringing of ships' bells is heard;
mysterious and muffled in the white vapour from London Bridge right
down to the Nore; for miles and miles in a decrescendo tinkling; to
where the estuary broadens out into the North Sea; and the anchored
ships lie scattered thinly in the shrouded channels between the
sand…banks of the Thames' mouth。 Through the long and glorious
tale of years of the river's strenuous service to its people these
are its only breathing times。
XXXIII。
A ship in dock; surrounded by quays and the walls of warehouses;
has the appearance of a prisoner meditating upon freedom in the
sadness of a free spirit put under restraint。 Chain cables and
stout ropes keep her bound to stone posts at the edge of a paved
shore; and a berthing…master; with brass buttons on his coat; walks
about like a weather…beaten and ruddy gaoler; casting jealous;
watchful glances upon the moorings that fetter a ship lying passive
and still and safe; as if lost in deep regrets of her days of
liberty and danger on the sea。
The swarm of renegades … dock…masters; berthing…masters; gatemen;
and such like … appear to nurse an immense distrust of the captive
ship's resignation。 There never seem chains and ropes enough to
satisfy their minds concerned with the safe binding of free ships
to the strong; muddy; enslaved earth。 〃You had better put another
bight of a hawser astern; Mr。 Mate;〃 is the usual phrase in their
mouth。 I brand them for renegades; because most of them have been
sailors in their time。 As if the infirmities of old age … the gray
hair; the wrinkles at the corners of the eyes; and the knotted
veins of the hands … were the symptoms of moral poison; they prowl
about the quays with an underhand air of gloating over the broken
spirit of noble captives。 They want more fenders; more breasting…
ropes; they want more springs; more shackles; more fetters; they
want to make ships with volatile souls as motionless as square
blocks of stone。 They stand on the mud of pavements; these
degraded sea…dogs; with long lines of railway…trucks clanking their
couplings behind their backs; and run malevolent glances over your
ship from headgear to taffrail; only wishing to tyrannize over the
poor creature under the hypocritical cloak of benevolence and care。
Here and there cargo cranes looking like instruments of torture for
ships swing cruel hooks at the end of long chains。 Gangs of dock…
labourers swarm with muddy feet over the gangways。 It is a moving
sight this; of so many men of the earth; earthy; who never cared
anything for a ship; trampling unconcerned; brutal and hob…nailed
upon her helpless body。
Fortunately; nothing can deface the beauty of a ship。 That sense
of a dungeon; that sense of a horrible and degrading misfortune
overtaking a creature fair to see and safe to trust; attaches only
to ships moored in the docks of great European ports。 You feel
that they are dishonestly locked up; to be hunted about from wharf
to wharf on a dark; greasy; square pool of black water as a brutal
reward at the end of a faithful voyage。
A ship anchored in an open roadstead; with cargo…lighters alongside
and her own tackle swinging the burden over the rail; is
accomplishing in freedom a function of her life。 There is no
restraint; there is space: clear water around her; and a clear sky
above her mastheads; with a landscape of green hills and charming
bays opening around her anchorage。 She is not abandoned by her own
men to the tender mercies of shore people。 She still shelters; and
is looked after by; her own little devoted band; and you feel that
presently she will glide between the headlands and disappear。 It
is only at home; in dock; that she lies abandoned; shut off from
freedom by all the artifices of men that think of quick despatch
and profitable freights。 It is only then that the odious;
rectangular shadows of walls and roofs fall upon her decks; with
showers of soot。
To a man who has never seen the extraordinary nobility; strength;
and grace that the devoted generations of ship…builders have
evolved from some pure nooks of their simple souls; the sight that
could be seen five…and…twenty years ago of a large fleet of
clippers moored along the north side of the New South Dock was an
inspiring spectacle。 Then there was a quarter of a mile of them;
from the iron dockyard…gates guarded by policemen; in a long;
forest…like perspective of masts; moored two and two to many stout
wooden jetties。 Their spars dwarfed with their loftiness the
corrugated…iron sheds; their jibbooms extended far over the shore;
their white…and…gold figure…heads; almost dazzling in their purity;
overhung the straight; long quay above the mud and dirt of the
wharfside; with the busy figures of groups and single men moving to
and fro; restless and grimy under their soaring immobility。
At tide…time you would see one of the loaded ships with battened…
down hatches drop out of the ranks and float in the clear space of
the dock;