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One thing these discontented folks cannot deny； and that is that it
would be difficult； not to say impossible； to find anywhere in the
mountains more flowery and highly perfumed mossy banks than those of
the Engadine。 We do not make this assertion because of the rhododendrons
that abound on the borders of the lakes： we are not fond of this showy；
pretentious shrub； whose flowers look as if they were moulded in wax for
the decoration of some altar； but is it not delightful to walk on a
greensward； almost black with rich satyrion and vanilla？ And what would
you think of a wealth of gentians； large and small； great yellow arnicas；
beautiful Martagon lilies； and St。…Bruno lilies； of every variety of daphne；
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of androsace； with its rose…coloured clusters； of the flame…coloured orchis；
of saxifrage； of great； velvety campanulas； of pretty violet asters； wrapped
in little； cravat…like tufting； to protect them from the cold？ Besides； near
the runnels； following whose borders the cattle have tracked out graded
paths； there grows that species of immortelle called /Edelweiss/； an object
of covetousness to every guest at the Baths。 Higher up； near the glacier
approach； may be found the white heart's…ease； the anemone； and the
glacial ranunculus （spearwort）； higher still； often buried beneath the snow；
flourishes that charming little lilac flower； delicately cut； sensitive；
quivering； as it were； with a cold； known as the soldanella。 To scrape away
the snow and find beneath it a flower！ Are there often made such
delightful discoveries in life？
Having said thus much； we must admit that the Rue de Saint Moritz
does not resemble the Rue de la Paix of Paris。 We must also admit that the
markets of the place are poorly supplied； and that in an atmosphere well
calculated to stimulate the appetite the wherewithal to supply this cannot
always be obtained。 We cannot have everything in this world； but it is by
no means our intention to advise any one to take up his residence for life
in the Engadine。 There must； however； be some charm in this valley； since
those of its inhabitants who emigrate from it in their youth are very apt；
after they have made some money； to return to pass their old age in their
natal place； where they build some very pretty houses。
Mlle。 Moriaz did not find Saint Moritz disagreeable； the wildness of
the scenery and the rugged pines pleased her。 From the terrace of Hotel
Badrutt she loved to gaze upon the green lake； slumbering at her feet； and
it never occurred to her to grumble because it had the form of a wash…bowl。
She loved to see the cows returning at evening from the pasture。 The
cowherd in charge marshalled home in the most orderly manner his little
drove； which announced its coming from afar by the tinkling of the cow…
bells。 Each one of the creatures stopped of itself at the entrance to its stall
and demanded admittance by its lowing。 In the morning； when they were
turned out again； they awaited the arrival of the entire herd； and fell into
rank and file； each in its proper place。 The first time Mlle。 Moriaz
witnessed this ceremony； she found it as interesting as a first presentation
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at the theatre or opera。
There were several rainy days； which she employed in reading；
painting； and making observations on the human animals of both sexes
whom she encountered at the /table d'hote/。 She soon gained an increase of
occupation。 With her； mind and heart were so constantly on the alert that it
was impossible for her to remain a week in a place without discovering
some work of charity to be performed。 A woman to whom she had taken a
fancy； a little shopkeeper of the place； interested her in her daughter； who
was destined to be a governess； and who desired to learn drawing。
Antoinette undertook to give her drawing…lessons； making her come every
day to the hotel； and often keeping her there several hours。 Her pupil was
rather dull of comprehension； and caused her to grow a little cross
sometimes； but she always made amends to the girl by her caresses and
sprightly talk。
The weather became fine again。 Antoinette availed herself of the
opportunity to take long promenades； she clambered up the mountain…
slopes； over slippery turf； in the hope of carrying home some rare plant；
but her strength was not equal to her valourshe could not succeed in
scaling those heights where flourished the /Edelweiss/。 A week after her
arrival she had a surprise； we might even say a pleasurable emotion； which
was not comprised in the programme of amusements that the proprietor of
Hotel Badrutt undertook to procure for his guests。 Returning from an
excursion to Lake Silvaplana； she found in her chamber a basket
containing a veritable sheaf of Alpine flowers； freshly gathered； and
among them not only /Edelweiss/ in profusion； but several very rare plants；
and the rarest of all a certain bell…flower creeper； which smells like the
apricot； and which； except in some districts of the Engadine； is only found
now in Siberia。 This splendid bouquet was accompanied by a note； thus
conceived：
〃A man who had had enough of life； resolved to hang himself。 To
execute his dolorous design； he selected a lonely and dismal spot； where
there grew a solitary oak； whose sap was nearly exhausted。 As he was
engaged in securing his cord； a bird alighted on the half…dead tree and
began to sing。 The man said to himself： 'Since there is no spot so
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miserable that a bird will not deign to sing in it； I will have the courage to
live。' And he lived。
〃I arrived in this village disgusted with life； sorrowful and so weary
that I longed to die。 I saw you pass by； and I know not what mysterious
virtue entered into me。 I will live。
〃 'What matters it to me？' you will say； in reading these lines； and you
will be right。 My sole excuse for having written them i