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ization。 In the local imagination this hotel of the company is a palace of unequaled magnificence； but probably its good taste； comfort； and quiet elegance are not appreciated after all。 There is this to be said about Philadelphia；and it will go far in pleading for it in the Last Day against its monotonous rectangularity and the babel…like ambition of its Public Building；that wherever its influence extends； there will be found comfortable lodgings and the luxury of an undeniably excellent cuisine。 The visible seal that Philadelphia sets on its enterprise all through the South is a good hotel。
This Cottage Beautiful has on two sides a wide veranda； set about with easy chairs； cheerful parlors and pretty chambers； finished in native woods； among which are conspicuous the satin stripes of the cucumber…tree； luxurious beds； and an inviting table ordered by a Philadelphia landlady； who knows a beefsteak from a boot…tap。 Is it 〃low〃 to dwell upon these things of the senses； when one is on a tour in search of the picturesque？ Let the reader ride from Abingdon through a wilderness of cornpone and rusty bacon； and then judge。 There were； to be sure； novels lying about； and newspapers； and fragments of information to be picked up about a world into which the travelers seemed to emerge。 They； at least； were satisfied； and went off to their rooms with the restful feeling that they had arrived somewhere） and no unquiet spirit at morn would say 〃to horse。〃 To sleep； perchance to dream of Tatem and his household cemetery； and the Professor was heard muttering in his chamber；
〃Weary with toil； I haste me to my bed； The dear repose for limbs with travel tired； But then begins a journey in my head； To work my mind； when body's work's expir'd。〃
The morning was warm （the elevation of the hotel must be between twenty…five hundred and three thousand feet）； rainy； mildly rainy； and the travelers had nothing better to do than lounge upon the veranda； read feeble ten…cent fictions； and admire the stems of the white birches； glistening in the moisture； and the rhododendron… trees； twenty feet high； which were shaking off their last pink blossoms； and look down into the valley of the Doe。 It is not an exciting landscape； nothing bold or specially wild in it； but restful with the monotony of some of the wooded Pennsylvania hills。
Sunday came up smiling； a lovely day； but offering no church privileges； for the ordinance of preaching is only occasional in this region。 The ladies of the hotel have； however； gathered in the valley a Sunday…school of fifty children from the mountain cabins。 A couple of rainy days； with the thermometer rising to 80 deg。； combined with natural laziness to detain the travelers in this cottage of ease。 They enjoyed this the more because it was on their consciences that they should visit Linville Falls； some twenty…five miles eastward； long held up before them as the most magnificent feature of this region； and on no account to be omitted。 Hence； naturally； a strong desire to omit it。 The Professor takes bold ground against these abnormal freaks of nature； and it was nothing to him that the public would demand that we should see Linville Falls。 In the first place； we could find no one who had ever seen them； and we spent two days in catechizing natives and strangers。 The nearest we came to information was from a workman at the furnace； who was born and raised within three miles of the Falls。 He had heard of people going there。 He had never seen them himself。 It was a good twenty…five miles there； over the worst road in the State we'd think it thirty before we got there。 Fifty miles of such travel to see a little water run down…hill！ The travelers reflected。 Every country has a local waterfall of which it boasts； they had seen a great many。 One more would add little to the experience of life。 The vagueness of information； to be sure； lured the travelers to undertake the journey； but the temptation was resistedsomething ought to be left for the next explorerand so Linville remains a thing of the imagination。
Towards evening； July 29； between showers； the Professor and the Friend rode along the narrow…gauge road； down Johnson's Creek； to Roan Station； the point of departure for ascending Roan Mountain。 It was a ride of an hour and a half over a fair road； fringed with rhododendrons； nearly blossomless； but at a point on the stream this sturdy shrub had formed a long bower where under a table might have been set for a temperance picnic； completely overgrown with wild grape； and still gay with bloom。 The habitations on the way are mostly board shanties and mean frame cabins； but the railway is introducing ambitious architecture here and there in the form of ornamental filigree work on flimsy houses； ornamentation is apt to precede comfort in our civilization。
Roan Station is on the Doe River （which flows down from Roan Mountain）； and is marked at 1265 feet above the sea。 The visitor will find here a good hotel； with open wood fires （not ungrateful in a July evening）； and obliging people。 This railway from Johnson City； hanging on the edge of the precipices that wall the gorge of the Doe； is counted in this region by the inhabitants one of the engineering wonders of the world。 The tourist is urged by all means to see both it and Linville Falls。
The tourist on horseback； in search of exercise and recreation； is not probably expected to take stock of moral conditions。 But this Mitchell County； although it was a Union county during the war and is Republican in politics （the Southern reader will perhaps prefer another adverb to 〃although〃）； has had the worst possible reputation。 The mountains were hiding…places of illicit distilleries； the woods were full of grog…shanties； where the inflaming fluid was sold as 〃native brandy；〃 quarrels and neighborhood difficulties were frequent； and the knife and pistol were used on the slightest provocation。 Fights arose about boundaries and the title to mica mines； and with the revenue officers； and force was the arbiter of all disputes。 Within the year four murders were committed in the sparsely settled county。 Travel on any of the roads was unsafe。 The tone of morals was what might be expected with such lawlessness。 A lady who came up on the road on the 4th of July； when an excursion party of country people took possession of the cars； witnessed a scene and heard language past belief。 Men； women； and children drank from whisky bottles that continually circulated； and a wild orgy resulted。 Profanity； indecent talk on topics that even the license of the sixteenth century would not have tolerated； and freedom of manners that even Teniers would have shrunk from putting on canvas； made the journey horrible。
The unrestrained license of whisky and assault and murder had produced a reaction a few months previous to our visit。 The people had risen up in their indignation and broken up the groggeries。 So far as we observed temperance prevailed； backed by public…opinion。 In our whole ride through the mountain region we saw only one or two places where liquor was sold。
It is called twelve miles from Roan Station to Roan Summit。 The dist