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ts of great mineral treasure。 A singular product of the region is the flexible sandstone。 It is a most uncanny stone。 A slip of it a couple of feet long and an inch in diameter each way bends in the hand like a half…frozen snake。 This conduct of a substance that we have been taught to regard as inflexible impairs one's confidence in the stability of nature and affects him as an earthquake does。
This excitement over mica and other minerals has the usual effect of starting up business and creating bad blood。 Fortunes have been made； and lost in riotous living； scores of visionary men have been disappointed； lawsuits about titles and claims have multiplied； and quarrels ending in murder have been frequent in the past few years。 The mica and the illicit whisky have worked together to make this region one of lawlessness and violence。 The travelers were told stories of the lack of common morality and decency in the region； but they made no note of them。 And； perhaps fortunately； they were not there during court week to witness the scenes of license that were described。 This court week； which draws hither the whole population； is a sort of Saturnalia。 Perhaps the worst of this is already a thing of the past； for the outrages a year before had reached such a pass that by a common movement the sale of whisky was stopped （not interdicted； but stopped）； and not a drop of liquor could be bought in Bakersville nor within three miles of it。
The jail at Bakersville is a very simple residence。 The main building is brick； two stories high and about twelve feet square。 The walls are so loosely laid up that it seems as if a colored prisoner might butt his head through。 Attached to this is a room for the jailer。 In the lower room is a wooden cage； made of logs bolted together and filled with spikes； nine feet by ten feet square and perhaps seven or eight feet high。 Between this cage and the wall is a space of eighteen inches in width。 It has a narrow door； and an opening through which the food is passed to the prisoners； and a conduit leading out of it。 Of course it soon becomes foul； and in warm weather somewhat warm。 A recent prisoner； who wanted more ventilation than the State allowed him； found some means； by a loose plank； I think； to batter a hole in the outer wall opposite the window in the cage； and this ragged opening； seeming to the jailer a good sanitary arrangement； remains。 Two murderers occupied this apartment at the time of our visit。 During the recent session of court； ten men had been confined in this narrow space； without room enough for them to lie down together。 The cage in the room above； a little larger； had for tenant a person who was jailed for some misunderstanding about an account； and who was probably innocent from the jailer's statement。 This box is a wretched residence； month after month； while awaiting trial。
We learned on inquiry that it is practically impossible to get a jury to convict of murder in this region； and that these admitted felons would undoubtedly escape。 We even heard that juries were purchasable here； and that a man's success in court depended upon the length of his purse。 This is such an unheard…of thing that we refused to credit it。 When the Friend attempted to arouse the indignation of the Professor about the barbarity of this jail； the latter defended it on the ground that as confinement was the only punishment that murderers were likely to receive in this region； it was well to make their detention disagreeable to them。 But the Friend did not like this wild…beast cage for men； and could only exclaim；
〃Oh； murder！ what crimes are done in thy name。〃
If the comrades wished an adventure； they had a small one； more interesting to them than to the public； the morning they left Bakersville to ride to Burnsville； which sets itself up as the capital of Yancey。 The way for the first three miles lay down a small creek and in a valley fairly settled； the houses； a store； and a grist…mill giving evidence of the new enterprise of the region。 When Toe River was reached； there was a choice of routes。 We might ford the Toe at that point； where the river was wide； but shallow； and the crossing safe； and climb over the mountain by a rough but sightly road； or descend the stream by a better road and ford the river at a place rather dangerous to those unfamiliar with it。 The danger attracted us； but we promptly chose the hill road on account of the views； for we were weary of the limited valley prospects。
The Toe River； even here； where it bears westward； is a very respectable stream in size； and not to be trifled with after a shower。 It gradually turns northward； and； joining the Nollechucky； becomes part of the Tennessee system。 We crossed it by a long； diagonal ford； slipping and sliding about on the round stones； and began the ascent of a steep hill。 The sun beat down unmercifully； the way was stony； and the horses did not relish the weary climbing。 The Professor； who led the way； not for the sake of leadership； but to be the discoverer of laden blackberry bushes； which began to offer occasional refreshment； discouraged by the inhospitable road and perhaps oppressed by the moral backwardness of things in general； cried out：
〃Tired with all these； for restful death I cry； As； to behold desert a beggar born； And needy nothing trimm'd in jollity； And purest faith unhappily foresworn； And gilded honor shamefully misplaced； And maiden virtue rudely strumpeted； And right perfection wrongfully disgraced； And strength by limping sway disabled； And art made tongue…tied by authority； And folly （doctor…like） controlling skill； And simple truth miscall'd simplicity； And captive good attending captain ill： Tired with all these； from these would I be gone； Save that； to die； I leave my love alone。〃
In the midst of a lively discussion of this pessimistic view of the inequalities of life； in which desert and capacity are so often put at disadvantage by birth in beggarly conditions； and brazen assumption raises the dust from its chariot wheels for modest merit to plod along in； the Professor swung himself off his horse to attack a blackberry bush； and the Friend； representing simple truth； and desirous of getting a wider prospect； urged his horse up the hill。 At the top he encountered a stranger； on a sorrel horse； with whom he entered into conversation and extracted all the discouragement the man had as to the road to Burnsville。
Nevertheless； the view opened finely and extensively。 There are few exhilarations comparable to that of riding or walking along a high ridge； and the spirits of the traveler rose many degrees above the point of restful death； for which the Professor was crying when he encountered the blackberry bushes。 Luckily the Friend soon fell in with a like temptation； and dismounted。 He discovered something that spoiled his appetite for berries。 His coat； strapped on behind the saddle； had worked loose； the pocket was open； and the pocket…book was gone。 This was serious business。 For while the Professor was the cashier； and traveled like a Rothschild； with large drafts； the Friend repre