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s region and foremost in its enterprises； and had formed a considerable collection of minerals。 Besides； more than any one else we met； he appreciated the beauty of his country； and took us to a neighboring hill； where we had a view of Table Mountain to the east and the nearer giant Blacks。 The elevation of Burnsville gives it a delightful summer climate； the gentle undulations of the country are agreeable； the views noble； the air is good； and it is altogether a 〃livable〃 and attractive place。 With facilities of communication； it would be a favorite summer resort。 Its nearness to the great mountains （the whole Black range is in Yancey County）； its fine pure air； its opportunity for fishing and hunting； commend it to those in search of an interesting and restful retreat in summer。
But it should be said that before the country can attract and retain travelers； its inhabitants must learn something about the preparation of food。 If； for instance； the landlord's wife at Burnsville had traveled with her husband； her table would probably have been more on a level with his knowledge of the world； and it would have contained something that the wayfaring man； though a Northerner； could eat。 We have been on the point several times in this journey of making the observation； but have been restrained by a reluctance to touch upon politics； that it was no wonder that a people with such a cuisine should have rebelled。 The travelers were in a rebellious mood most of the time。
The evidences of enterprise in this region were pleasant to see； but the observers could not but regret； after all； the intrusion of the money…making spirit； which is certain to destroy much of the present simplicity。 It is as yet； to a degree； tempered by a philosophic spirit。 The other guest of the house was a sedate； long…bearded traveler for some Philadelphia house； and in the evening he and the landlord fell into a conversation upon what Socrates calls the disadvantage of the pursuit of wealth to the exclusion of all noble objects； and they let their fancy play about Vanderbilt； who was agreed to be the richest man in the world； or that ever lived。
〃All I want；〃 said the long…bearded man； 〃is enough to be comfortable。 I would n't have Vanderbilt's wealth if he'd give it to me。〃
〃Nor I；〃 said the landlord。 〃Give me just enough to be comfortable。〃 ＇The tourist couldn't but note that his ideas of enough to be comfortable had changed a good deal since he had left his little farm and gone into the mica business； and visited New York； and enlarged and painted his tavern。＇ I should like to know what more Vanderbilt gets out of his money than I get out of mine。 I heard tell of a young man who went to Vanderbilt to get employment。 Vanderbilt finally offered to give the young man； if he would work for him； just what he got himself。 The young man jumped at thathe'd be perfectly satisfied with that pay。 And Vanderbilt said that all he got was what he could eat and wear； and offered to give the young man his board and clothes。〃
〃I declare〃 said the long…bearded man。 〃That's just it。 Did you ever see Vanderbilt's house？ Neither did I； but I heard he had a vault built in it five feet thick； solid。 He put in it two hundred millions of dollars； in gold。 After a year； he opened it and put in twelve millions more； and called that a poor year。 They say his house has gold shutters to the windows； so I've heard。〃
〃I shouldn't wonder；〃 said the landlord。 〃I heard he had one door in his house cost forty thousand dollars。 I don't know what it is made of； unless it's made of gold。〃
Sunday was a hot and quiet day。 The stores were closed and the two churches also； this not being the Sunday for the itinerant preacher。 The jail also showed no sign of life； and when we asked about it； we learned that it was empty； and had been for some time。 No liquor is sold in the place； nor within at least three miles of it。 It is not much use to try to run a jail without liquor。
In the course of the morning a couple of stout fellows arrived； leading between them a young man whom they had arrested；it didn't appear on any warrant； but they wanted to get him committed and locked up。 The offense charged was carrying a pistol； the boy had not used it against anybody； but he had flourished it about and threatened； and the neighbors wouldn't stand that； they were bound to enforce the law against carrying concealed weapons。
The captors were perfectly good…natured and on friendly enough terms with the young man； who offered no resistance； and seemed not unwilling to go to jail。 But a practical difficulty arose。 The jail was locked up； the sheriff had gone away into the country with the key； and no one could get in。 It did not appear that there was any provision for boarding the man in jail； no one in fact kept it。 The sheriff was sent for； but was not to be found； and the prisoner and his captors loafed about the square all day； sitting on the fence； rolling on the grass； all of them sustained by a simple trust that the jail would be open some time。
Late in the afternoon we left them there； trying to get into the jail。 But we took a personal leaf out of this experience。 Our Virginia friends； solicitous for our safety in this wild country； had urged us not to venture into it without armstake at least； they insisted； a revolver each。 And now we had to congratulate ourselves that we had not done so。 If we had； we should doubtless on that Sunday have been waiting； with the other law…breaker； for admission into the Yancey County jail。
III
》From Burnsville the next point in our route was Asheville； the most considerable city in western North Carolina； a resort of fashion； and the capital of Buncombe County。 It is distant some forty to forty… five miles； too long a journey for one day over such roads。 The easier and common route is by the Ford of Big Ivy； eighteen miles； the first stopping…place； and that was a long ride for the late afternoon when we were in condition to move。
The landlord suggested that we take another route； stay that night on Caney River with Big Tom Wilson； only eight miles from Burnsville； cross Mount Mitchell； and go down the valley of the Swannanoa to Asheville。 He represented this route as shorter and infinitely more picturesque。 There was nothing worth seeing on the Big Ivy way。 With scarcely a moment's reflection and while the horses were saddling； we decided to ride to Big Tom Wilson's。 I could not at the time understand； and I cannot now； why the Professor consented。 I should hardly dare yet confess to my fixed purpose to ascend Mount Mitchell。 It was equally fixed in the Professor's mind not to do it。 We had not discussed it much。 But it is safe to say that if he had one well…defined purpose on this trip； it was not to climb Mitchell。 〃Not；〃 as he put it；
〃Not mine own fears； nor the prophetic soul Of the wide world dreaming on things to come；〃
had suggested the possibility that he could do it。
But at the moment the easiest thing to do seemed to be to ride down to Wilson's。 When there we could turn across country to the Big Ivy； although； said the landlord； you can ride over Mitchell just as