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ose brother was formerly a representative in Congress。 〃Social equality；〃 he said in effect； 〃is a humbug。 We do not expect it； we do not want it。 It does not exist among the blacks themselves。 We have our own social degrees； and choose our own associates。 We simply want the ordinary civil rights； under which we can live and make our way in peace and amity。 This is necessary to our self…respect； and if we have not self…respect； it is not to be supposed that the race can improve。 I'll tell you what I mean。 My wife is a modest； intelligent woman； of good manners； and she is always neat； and tastefully dressed。 Now； if she goes to take the cars； she is not permitted to go into a clean car with decent people； but is ordered into one that is repellent； and is forced into company that any refined woman would shrink from。 But along comes a flauntingly dressed woman； of known disreputable character； whom my wife would be disgraced to know； and she takes any place that money will buy。 It is this sort of thing that hurts。〃
We took the eastern train one evening to Round Nob （Henry's Station）； some thirty miles； in order to see the wonderful railway that descends； a distance of eight miles； from the summit of Swannanoa Gap （2657 feet elevation） to Round Nob Hotel （1607 feet）。 The Swannanoa Summit is the dividing line between the waters that flow to the Atlantic and those that go to the Gulf of Mexico。 This fact was impressed upon us by the inhabitants； who derive a good deal of comfort from it。 Such divides are always matter of local pride。 Unfortunately； perhaps； it was too dark before we reached Henry's to enable us to see the road in all its loops and parallels as it appears on the map； but we gained a better effect。 The hotel； when we first sighted it； all its windows blazing with light； was at the bottom of a well。 Beside itit was sufficiently light to see that a column of water sprang straight into the air to the height； as we learned afterwards from two official sources； of 225 and 265 feet； and the information was added that it is the highest fountain in the world。 This stout column； stiff as a flagstaff； with its feathery head of mist gleaming like silver in the failing light； had the most charming effect。 We passed out of sight of hotel and fountain； but were conscious of beingwhirled on a circular descending grade； and very soon they were in sight again。 Again and again they disappeared and came to view； now on one side and now on the other； until our train seemed to be bewitched； making frantic efforts by dodgings and turnings； now through tunnels and now over high pieces of trestle； to escape the inevitable attraction that was gravitating it down to the hospitable lights at the bottom of the well。 When we climbed back up the road in the morning； we had an opportunity to see the marvelous engineering； but there is little else to see； the view being nearly always very limited。
The hotel at the bottom of the ravine； on the side of Round Nob； offers little in the way of prospect； but it is a picturesque place； and we could understand why it was full of visitors when we came to the table。 It was probably the best…kept house of entertainment in the State； and being in the midst of the Black Hills； it offers good chances for fishing and mountain climbing。
In the morning the fountain； which is； of course； artificial； refused to play； the rain in the night having washed in debris which clogged the conduit。 But it soon freed itself and sent up for a long time； like a sulky geyser； mud and foul water。 When it got freedom and tolerable clearness； we noted that the water went up in pulsations； which were marked at short distances by the water falling off； giving the column the appearance of a spine。 The summit； always beating the air in efforts to rise higher； fell over in a veil of mist。
There are certain excursions that the sojourner at Asheville must make。 He must ride forty…five miles south through Henderson and Transylvania to Caesar's Head； on the South Carolina border； where the mountain system abruptly breaks down into the vast southern plain； where the observer； standing on the edge of the precipice； has behind him and before him the greatest contrast that nature can offer。 He must also take the rail to Waynesville； and visit the much…frequented White Sulphur Springs； among the Balsam Mountains； and penetrate the Great Smoky range by way of Quallatown； and make the acquaintance of the remnant of Cherokee Indians living on the north slope of Cheoah Mountain。 The Professor could have made it a matter of personal merit that he escaped all these encounters with wild and picturesque nature； if his horse had not been too disabled for such long jaunts。 It is only necessary； however； to explain to the public that the travelers are not gormandizers of scenery； and were willing to leave some portions of the State to the curiosity of future excursionists。
But so much was said about Hickory Nut Gap that a visit to it could not be evaded。 The Gap is about twenty…four miles southeast of Asheville。 In the opinion of a well…informed colonel； who urged us to make the trip； it is the finest piece of scenery it this region。 We were brought up on the precept 〃get the best；〃 and it was with high anticipations that we set out about eleven o'clock one warm； foggy morning。 We followed a very good road through a broken； pleasant country； gradually growing wilder and less cultivated。 There was heavy rain most of the day on the hills； and occasionally a shower swept across our path。 The conspicuous object toward which we traveled all the morning was a shapely conical hill at the beginning of the Gap。
At three o'clock we stopped at the Widow Sherrill's for dinner。 Her house； only about a mile from the summit； is most picturesquely situated on a rough slope； giving a wide valley and mountain view。 The house is old rambling； many…roomed； with wide galleries on two sides。 If one wanted a retired retreat for a few days； with good air and fair entertainment； this could be commended。 It is an excellent fruit region； apples especially are sound and of good flavor。 That may be said of all this part of the State。 The climate is adapted to apples； as the hilly part of New England is。 I fancy the fruit ripens slowly； as it does in New England； and is not subject to quick decay like much of that grown in the West。 But the grape also can be grown in all this mountain region。 Nothing but lack of enterprise prevents any farmer from enjoying abundance of fruit。 The industry carried on at the moment at the Widow Sherrill's was the artificial drying of apples for the market。 The apples are pared； cored； and sliced in spirals； by machinery； and dried on tin sheets in a patented machine。 The industry appears to be a profitable one hereabouts； and is about the only one that calls in the aid of invention。
While our dinner was preparing； we studied the well…known pictures of 〃Jane〃 and 〃Eliza；〃 the photographs of Confederate boys； who had never returned from the war； and the relations； whom the traveling photographers always like to pillory in melancholy couples； and some stray volumes of the Sunday…school Union。 Madame