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ly as heavy…spar。 It is the weight of this heaviest of minerals； and not its lovely crystals； that gives it value。 The rock is crushed； washed； sorted out by hand； to remove the foreign substances； then ground and subjected to acids； and at the end of the process it is as white and fine as the best bolted flour。 This heavy adulterant is shipped to the North in large quantities；the manager said he had recently an order for a hundred thousand dollars' worth of it。 What is the use of this powder？ Well； it is of use to the dealer who sells white lead for paint； to increase the weight of the lead； and it is the belief hereabouts that it is mixed with powdered sugar。 The industry is profitable to those engaged in it。
It was impossible to get much information about our route into Tennessee； except that we should go by Paint Rock； and cross Paint Mountain。 Late one morning；a late start is inevitable here； accompanied by a cavalcade； we crossed the river by the rope ferry； and trotted down the pretty road； elevated above the stream and tree… shaded； offering always charming glimpses of swift water and overhanging foliage （the railway obligingly taking the other side of the river）； to Paint Rock；six miles。 This Paint Rock is a naked precipice by the roadside； perhaps sixty feet high； which has a large local reputation。 It is said that its face shows painting done by the Indians； and hieroglyphics which nobody can read。 On this bold； crumbling cliff； innumerable visitors have written their names。 We stared at it a good while to discover the paint and hieroglyphics； but could see nothing except iron stains。 Round the corner is a farmhouse and place of call for visitors； a neat cottage； with a display of shells and minerals and flower…pots； and here we turned north crossed the little stream called Paint River； the only clear water we had seen in a month； passed into the State of Tennessee； and by a gentle ascent climbed Paint Mountain。 The open forest road； with the murmur of the stream below； was delightfully exhilarating； and as we rose the prospect opened；the lovely valley below； Bald Mountains behind us； and the Butt Mountains rising as we came over the ridge。
Nobody on the way； none of the frowzy women or unintelligent men； knew anything of the route； or could give us any information of the country beyond。 But as we descended in Tennessee the country and the farms decidedly improved；apple…trees and a grapevine now and then。
A ride of eight miles brought us to Waddle's； hungry and disposed to receive hospitality。 We passed by an old farm building to a new two… storied； gayly painted house on a hill。 We were deceived by appearances。 The new house； with a new couple in it； had nothing to offer us except some buttermilk。 Why should anybody be obliged to feed roving strangers？ As to our horses； the young woman with a baby in her arms declared；
〃We've got nothing for stock but roughness； perhaps you can get something at the other house。〃
〃Roughness；〃 we found out at the other house； meant hay in this region。 We procured for the horses a light meal of green oats； and for our own dinner we drank at the brook and the Professor produced a few sonnets。 On this sustaining repast we fared on nearly twelve miles farther； through a rolling； good farming country； offering little for comment； in search of a night's lodging with one of the brothers Snap。 But one brother declined our company on the plea that his wife was sick； and the other because his wife lived in Greenville； and we found ourselves as dusk came on without shelter in a tavernless land。 Between the two refusals we enjoyed the most picturesque bit of scenery of the day； at the crossing of Camp Creek； a swift little stream； that swirled round under the ledge of bold rocks before the ford。 This we learned was a favorite camp…meeting ground。 Mary was calling the cattle home at the farm of the second Snap。 It was a very peaceful scene of rural life； and we were inclined to tarry； but Mary； instead of calling us home with the cattle； advised us to ride on to Alexander's before it got dark。
It is proper to say that at Alexander's we began to see what this pleasant and fruitful country might be； and will be； with thrift and intelligent farming。 Mr。 Alexander is a well…to…do farmer； with plenty of cattle and good barns （always an evidence of prosperity）； who owes his success to industry and an open mind to new ideas。 He was a Unionist during the war； and is a Democrat now； though his county （Greene） has been Republican。 We had been riding all the afternoon through good land； and encountering a better class of farmers。 Peach…trees abounded （though this was an off year for fruit）； and apples and grapes throve。 It is a land of honey and of milk。 The persimmon flourishes； and； sign of abundance generally； we believe； great flocks of turkey…buzzardsmajestic floaters in the high airhovered about。 This country was ravaged during the war by Unionists and Confederates alternately； the impartial patriots as they passed scooping in corn； bacon； and good horses； leaving the farmers little to live on。 Mr。 Alexander's farm cost him forty dollars an acre； and yields good crops of wheat and maize。 This was the first house on our journey where at breakfast we had grace before meat； though there had been many tables that needed it more。 From the door the noble range of the Big Bald is in sight and not distant； and our host said he had a shanty on it； to which he was accustomed to go with his family for a month or six weeks in the summer and enjoy a real primitive woods life。
Refreshed by this little touch of civilization； and with horses well fed； we rode on next morning towards Jonesboro； over a rolling； rather unpicturesque country； but ennobled by the Big Bald and Butt ranges； which we had on our right all day。 At noon we crossed the Nollechucky River at a ford where the water was up to the saddle girth； broad； rapid； muddy； and with a treacherous stony bottom； and came to the little hamlet of Boylesville； with a flour…mill； and a hospitable old…fashioned house； where we found shelter from the heat of the hot day； and where the daughters of the house； especially one pretty girl in a short skirt and jaunty cap； contradicted the currently received notion that this world is a weary pilgrimage。 The big parlor； with its photographs and stereoscope； and bits of shell and mineral； a piano and a melodeon； and a coveted old sideboard of mahogany； recalled rural New England。 Perhaps these refinements are due to the Washington College （a school for both sexes）； which is near。 We noted at the tables in this region a singular use of the word fruit。 When we were asked； Will you have some of the fruit？ and said Yes； we always got applesauce。
Ten miles more in the late afternoon brought us to Jonesboro； the oldest town in the State； a pretty place； with a flavor of antiquity； set picturesquely on hills； with the great mountains in sight。 People from further South find this an agreeable summering place； and a fair hotel； with odd galleries in front and rear； did not want company。 The Warren Institute for negroes has been flourishing here ever since the war。
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