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and we knew that long after we should have forgotten the simple rivulet
it would still be plodding its patient way down the mountain sides； and
canyon…beds； and between the banks of the Yellowstone； and by and by
would join the broad Missouri and flow through unknown plains and deserts
and unvisited wildernesses； and add a long and troubled pilgrimage among
snags and wrecks and sandbars； and enter the Mississippi； touch the
wharves of St。 Louis and still drift on； traversing shoals and rocky
channels； then endless chains of bottomless and ample bends； walled with
unbroken forests； then mysterious byways and secret passages among woody
islands； then the chained bends again； bordered with wide levels of
shining sugar…cane in place of the sombre forests； then by New Orleans
and still other chains of bendsand finally； after two long months of
daily and nightly harassment； excitement； enjoyment； adventure； and awful
peril of parched throats； pumps and evaporation； pass the Gulf and enter
into its rest upon the bosom of the tropic sea； never to look upon its
snow…peaks again or regret them。
I freighted a leaf with a mental message for the friends at home； and
dropped it in the stream。 But I put no stamp on it and it was held for
postage somewhere。
On the summit we overtook an emigrant train of many wagons； many tired
men and women； and many a disgusted sheep and cow。
In the wofully dusty horseman in charge of the expedition I recognized
John …。 Of all persons in the world to meet on top of the Rocky
Mountains thousands of miles from home； he was the last one I should have
looked for。 We were school…boys together and warm friends for years。
But a boyish prank of mine had disruptured this friendship and it had
never been renewed。 The act of which I speak was this。 I had been
accustomed to visit occasionally an editor whose room was in the third
story of a building and overlooked the street。 One day this editor gave
me a watermelon which I made preparations to devour on the spot； but
chancing to look out of the window； I saw John standing directly under it
and an irresistible desire came upon me to drop the melon on his head；
which I immediately did。 I was the loser； for it spoiled the melon； and
John never forgave me and we dropped all intercourse and parted； but now
met again under these circumstances。
We recognized each other simultaneously； and hands were grasped as warmly
as if no coldness had ever existed between us； and no allusion was made
to any。 All animosities were buried and the simple fact of meeting a
familiar face in that isolated spot so far from home； was sufficient to
make us forget all things but pleasant ones； and we parted again with
sincere 〃good…bye〃 and 〃God bless you〃 from both。
We had been climbing up the long shoulders of the Rocky Mountains for
many tedious hourswe started down them； now。 And we went spinning away
at a round rate too。
We left the snowy Wind River Mountains and Uinta Mountains behind； and
sped away； always through splendid scenery but occasionally through long
ranks of white skeletons of mules and oxenmonuments of the huge
emigration of other daysand here and there were up…ended boards or
small piles of stones which the driver said marked the resting…place of
more precious remains。
It was the loneliest land for a grave！ A land given over to the cayote
and the ravenwhich is but another name for desolation and utter
solitude。 On damp； murky nights； these scattered skeletons gave forth a
soft； hideous glow； like very faint spots of moonlight starring the vague
desert。 It was because of the phosphorus in the bones。 But no
scientific explanation could keep a body from shivering when he drifted
by one of those ghostly lights and knew that a skull held it。
At midnight it began to rain； and I never saw anything like itindeed； I
did not even see this； for it was too dark。 We fastened down the
curtains and even caulked them with clothing； but the rain streamed in in
twenty places； nothwithstanding。 There was no escape。 If one moved his
feet out of a stream； he brought his body under one； and if he moved his
body he caught one somewhere else。 If he struggled out of the drenched
blankets and sat up； he was bound to get one down the back of his neck。
Meantime the stage was wandering about a plain with gaping gullies in it；
for the driver could not see an inch before his face nor keep the road；
and the storm pelted so pitilessly that there was no keeping the horses
still。 With the first abatement the conductor turned out with lanterns
to look for the road； and the first dash he made was into a chasm about
fourteen feet deep； his lantern following like a meteor。 As soon as he
touched bottom he sang out frantically：
〃Don't come here！〃
To which the driver； who was looking over the precipice where he had
disappeared； replied； with an injured air： 〃Think I'm a dam fool？〃
The conductor was more than an hour finding the roada matter which
showed us how far we had wandered and what chances we had been taking。
He traced our wheel…tracks to the imminent verge of danger； in two
places。 I have always been glad that we were not killed that night。
I do not know any particular reason； but I have always been glad。
In the morning； the tenth day out； we crossed Green River； a fine； large；
limpid streamstuck in it with the water just up to the top of our mail…
bed； and waited till extra teams were put on to haul us up the steep
bank。 But it was nice cool water； and besides it could not find any
fresh place on us to wet。
At the Green River station we had breakfasthot biscuits； fresh antelope
steaks； and coffeethe only decent meal we tasted between the United
States and Great Salt Lake City； and the only one we were ever really
thankful for。
Think of the monotonous execrableness of the thirty that went before it；
to leave this one simple breakfast looming up in my memory like a shot…
tower after all these years have gone by！
At five P。M。 we reached Fort Bridger； one hundred and seventeen miles
from the South Pass； and one thousand and twenty…five miles from St。
Joseph。 Fifty…two miles further on； near the head of Echo Canyon； we met
sixty United States soldiers from Camp Floyd。 The day before； they had
fired upon three hundred or four hundred Indians； whom they supposed
gathered together for no good purpose。 In the fight that had ensued；
four Indians were captured； and the main body chased four miles； but
nobody killed。 This looked like business。 We had a notion to get out
and join the sixty soldiers； but upon reflecting that there were four
hundred of the Indians； we concluded to go on and join the Indians。
Echo Canyon is twenty miles long。 It was like a long； smooth； narrow
street； with a gradual descending grade； and shut in by enormous
perpendicular walls of coarse conglomerate； four hundred feet high in
many places； and turreted like mediaeval castles。 This was the most
faultless piece of road in the mountains； and the driver said he would
〃let his team out。〃 He did； and if the Pacific express trains whiz
through there now any faster than we did then in the stag