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roughing it-第30章

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The high prices charged for trifles were eloquent of high freights and
bewildering distances of freightage。  In the east; in those days; the
smallest moneyed denomination was a penny and it represented the smallest
purchasable quantity of any commodity。  West of Cincinnati the smallest
coin in use was the silver five…cent piece and no smaller quantity of an
article could be bought than 〃five cents' worth。〃  In Overland City the
lowest coin appeared to be the ten…cent piece; but in Salt Lake there did
not seem to be any money in circulation smaller than a quarter; or any
smaller quantity purchasable of any commodity than twenty…five cents'
worth。  We had always been used to half dimes and 〃five cents' worth〃 as
the minimum of financial negotiations; but in Salt Lake if one wanted a
cigar; it was a quarter; if he wanted a chalk pipe; it was a quarter; if
he wanted a peach; or a candle; or a newspaper; or a shave; or a little
Gentile whiskey to rub on his corns to arrest indigestion and keep him
from having the toothache; twenty…five cents was the price; every time。
When we looked at the shot…bag of silver; now and then; we seemed to be
wasting our substance in riotous living; but if we referred to the
expense account we could see that we had not been doing anything of the
kind。

But people easily get reconciled to big money and big prices; and fond
and vain of bothit is a descent to little coins and cheap prices that
is hardest to bear and slowest to take hold upon one's toleration。  After
a month's acquaintance with the twenty…five cent minimum; the average
human being is ready to blush every time he thinks of his despicable
five…cent days。  How sunburnt with blushes I used to get in gaudy Nevada;
every time I thought of my first financial experience in Salt Lake。
It was on this wise (which is a favorite expression of great authors; and
a very neat one; too; but I never hear anybody say on this wise when they
are talking)。  A young half…breed with a complexion like a yellow…jacket
asked me if I would have my boots blacked。  It was at the Salt Lake House
the morning after we arrived。  I said yes; and he blacked them。  Then I
handed him a silver five…cent piece; with the benevolent air of a person
who is conferring wealth and blessedness upon poverty and suffering。  The
yellow…jacket took it with what I judged to be suppressed emotion; and
laid it reverently down in the middle of his broad hand。  Then he began
to contemplate it; much as a philosopher contemplates a gnat's ear in the
ample field of his microscope。  Several mountaineers; teamsters; stage…
drivers; etc。; drew near and dropped into the tableau and fell to
surveying the money with that attractive indifference to formality which
is noticeable in the hardy pioneer。  Presently the yellow…jacket handed
the half dime back to me and told me I ought to keep my money in my
pocket…book instead of in my soul; and then I wouldn't get it cramped and
shriveled up so!

What a roar of vulgar laughter there was!  I destroyed the mongrel
reptile on the spot; but I smiled and smiled all the time I was detaching
his scalp; for the remark he made was good for an 〃Injun。〃

Yes; we had learned in Salt Lake to be charged great prices without
letting the inward shudder appear on the surfacefor even already we had
overheard and noted the tenor of conversations among drivers; conductors;
and hostlers; and finally among citizens of Salt Lake; until we were well
aware that these superior beings despised 〃emigrants。〃  We permitted no
tell…tale shudders and winces in our countenances; for we wanted to seem
pioneers; or Mormons; half…breeds; teamsters; stage…drivers; Mountain
Meadow assassinsanything in the world that the plains and Utah
respected and admiredbut we were wretchedly ashamed of being
〃emigrants;〃 and sorry enough that we had white shirts and could not
swear in the presence of ladies without looking the other way。

And many a time in Nevada; afterwards; we had occasion to remember with
humiliation that we were 〃emigrants;〃 and consequently a low and inferior
sort of creatures。  Perhaps the reader has visited Utah; Nevada; or
California; even in these latter days; and while communing with himself
upon the sorrowful banishment of these countries from what he considers
〃the world;〃 has had his wings clipped by finding that he is the one to
be pitied; and that there are entire populations around him ready and
willing to do it for himyea; who are complacently doing it for him
already; wherever he steps his foot。

Poor thing; they are making fun of his hat; and the cut of his New York
coat; and his conscientiousness about his grammar; and his feeble
profanity; and his consumingly ludicrous ignorance of ores; shafts;
tunnels; and other things which he never saw before; and never felt
enough interest in to read about。  And all the time that he is thinking
what a sad fate it is to be exiled to that far country; that lonely land;
the citizens around him are looking down on him with a blighting
compassion because he is an 〃emigrant〃 instead of that proudest and
blessedest creature that exists on all the earth; a 〃FORTY…NINER。〃

The accustomed coach life began again; now; and by midnight it almost
seemed as if we never had been out of our snuggery among the mail sacks
at all。  We had made one alteration; however。  We had provided enough
bread; boiled ham and hard boiled eggs to last double the six hundred
miles of staging we had still to do。

And it was comfort in those succeeding days to sit up and contemplate the
majestic panorama of mountains and valleys spread out below us and eat
ham and hard boiled eggs while our spiritual natures revelled alternately
in rainbows; thunderstorms; and peerless sunsets。  Nothing helps scenery
like ham and eggs。  Ham and eggs; and after these a pipean old; rank;
delicious pipeham and eggs and scenery; a 〃down grade;〃 a flying coach;
a fragrant pipe and a contented heartthese make happiness。  It is what
all the ages have struggled for。




CHAPTER XVIII。

At eight in the morning we reached the remnant and ruin of what had been
the important military station of 〃Camp Floyd;〃 some forty…five or fifty
miles from Salt Lake City。  At four P。M。  we had doubled our distance and
were ninety or a hundred miles from Salt Lake。  And now we entered upon
one of that species of deserts whose concentrated hideousness shames the
diffused and diluted horrors of Saharaan 〃alkali〃 desert。  For sixty…
eight miles there was but one break in it。  I do not remember that this
was really a break; indeed it seems to me that it was nothing but a
watering depot in the midst of the stretch of sixty…eight miles。  If my
memory serves me; there was no well or spring at this place; but the
water was hauled there by mule and ox teams from the further side of the
desert。  There was a stage station there。  It was forty…five miles from
the beginning of the desert; and twenty…three from the end of it。

We plowed and dragged and groped along; the whole live…long night; and at
the end of this uncomfortable twelve hours we finished the forty…five…
mile part of the desert and got to the stag
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