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which formed a shady avenue before his house； in which the birds piped and
warbled in the spring； and the cicadae chorused in the summer。 Fabre could
not endure this massacre； this barbarous mutilation； this crime against
nature。 Hungry for peace and quiet； the enjoyment of a dwelling…place could
no longer content him； at all costs he must own his own home。
So； having won the modest ransom of his deliverance； he waited no longer；
but quitted the cities for ever； retiring to Sérignan； to the peaceful
obscurity of a tiny hamlet； and this quiet corner of the earth had
henceforth all his heart and soul in keeping。
CHAPTER 6。 THE HERMITAGE。
Goethe has somewhere written： Whosoever would understand the poet and his
work should visit the poet's country。
Let us； then； the latest of many； make the pilgrimage which all those who
are fascinated by the enigma of nature will accomplish later； with the same
piety that has led so many and so fervent admirers to the dwelling of
Mistral at Maillane。
Starting from Orange and crossing the Aygues； a torrent whose muddy waters
are lost in the Rh？ne； but whose bed is dried by the July and August suns；
leaving only a desert of pebbles； where the Mason…bee builds her pretty
turrets of rock…work； we come presently to the Sérignaise country； an arid；
stony tract； planted with vines and olives； coloured a rusty red； or
touched here and there with almost a hue of blood； and here and there a
grove of cypress makes a sombre blot。 To the north runs a long black line
of hills； covered with box and ilex and the giant heather of the south。 Far
in the distance； to the east； the immense plain is closed in by the wall of
Saint…Amant and the ridge of the Dentelle； behind which the lofty Ventoux
rears its rocky； cloven bosom abruptly to the clouds。 At the end of a few
miles of dusty road； swept by the powerful breath of the mistral； we
suddenly reach a little village。 It is a curious little community； with its
central street adorned by a double row of plane…trees； its leaping
fountains； and its almost Italian air。 The houses are lime…washed； with
flat roofs； and sometimes； at the side of some small or decrepit dwelling；
we see the unexpected curves of a loggia。 At a distance the facade of the
church has the harmonious lines of a little antique temple； close at hand
is the graceful campanile； an old octagonal tower surmounted by a narrow
mitre wrought in hammered iron； in the midst of which are seen the black
profiles of the bells。
I shall never forget my first visit。 It was in the month of August； and the
whole countryside was ringing with the song of the cicadae。 I had applied
to a job…master of Orange； counting on him to take me thither； but he had
never driven any one to Sérignan； had hardly heard of Fabre； and did not
know where his house was。 At length； however； we contrived to find it。 At
the entrance of the little market…town； in a solitary corner； in the centre
of an enclosure of lofty walls； which were taller than the crests of the
pines and cypresses； his dwelling was hidden away。 No sound proceeded from
it； but for the baying of the faithful Tom I do not think I should have
dared to knock on the great door； which turned slowly on its hinges。 A pink
house with green shutters； half…hidden amid the sombre foliage； appears at
the end of an alley of lilacs； 〃which sway in the spring under the weight
of their balmy thyrsi。〃 Before the house are the shady plane…trees； where
during the burning hours of August the cicada of the flowering ash； the
deafening cacan； concealed beneath the leaves； fills the hot atmosphere
with its eager cries； the only sound that disturbs the profound silence of
this solitude。
Before us； beyond a little wall of a height to lean upon； on an isolated
lawn； beneath the shade of great trees with interwoven boughs； a circular
basin displays its still surface； across which the skating Hydrometra
traces its wide circles。 Then； suddenly； we see an opening into the most
extraordinary and unexpected of gardens； a wild park； full of strenuous
vegetation； which hides the pebbly soil in all directions； a chaos of
plants and bushes； created throughout especially to attract the insects of
the neighbourhood。
Thickets of wild laurel and dense clumps of lavender encroach upon the
paths； alternating with great bushes of coronilla； which bar the flight of
the butterfly with their yellow…winged flowers； and whose searching
fragrance embalms all the air about them。
It is as though the neighbouring mountain had one day departed； leaving
here its thistles； its dogberry…trees； its brooms； its rushes； its juniper…
bushes； its laburnums； and its spurges。 There too grows the 〃strawberry
tree；〃 whose red fruits wear so familiar an appearance； and tall pines； the
giants of this 〃pigmy forest。〃 There the Japanese privet ripens its black
berries； mingled with the Paulownia and the Cratoegus with their tender
green foliage。 Coltsfoot mingles with violets； clumps of sage and thyme mix
their fragrance with the scent of rosemary and a host of balsamic plants。
Amid the cacti； their fleshy leaves bristling with prickles； the periwinkle
opens its scattered blossoms； while in a corner the serpent arum raises its
cornucopia； in which those insects that love putrescence fall engulfed；
deceived by the horrible savour of its exhalations。
It is in the spring above all that one should see this torrent of verdure；
when the whole enclosure awakens in its festival attire； decked with all
the flowers of May； and the warm air； full of the hum of insects； is
perfumed with a thousand intoxicating scents。 It is in the spring that one
should see the 〃Harmas；〃 the open…air observatory； 〃the laboratory of
living entomology〃 （6/1。）； a name and a spot which Fabre has made famous
throughout the world。
I enter the dining…room； whose wide； half…closed shutters allow only a
half…light to enter between the printed curtains。 Rush…bottomed chairs； a
great table； about which seven persons daily take their places； a few poor
pieces of furniture； and a simple bookcase； such are all the contents。 On
the mantel； a clock in black marble； a precious souvenir； the only present
which Fabre received at the time of his exodus from Avignon； it was given
by his old pupils； the young girls who used to attend the free lectures at
Saint…Martial's。
There； every afternoon； half lying on a little sofa； the naturalist has the
habit of taking a short siesta。 This light repose； even without sleep； was
of old enough to restore his energies； exhausted by hours of labour。
Thenceforth he was once more alert； and ready for the remainder of the day。
But already he is on his feet； bareheaded； in his waistcoat； his silk
necktie carelessly fastened under the soft turned…down collar of his half…
open shirt； his gesture； in the shadowy chamber； full of welcome。
Fran？ois Sicard； in his faultless medal and his admirable bust； has