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countrymen who went up before us；〃 said she。 〃What a pity that
Englishmen should always make so much noise！〃 And then she spoke in
Spanish to the custodian of the bells； who is usually to be found in
a little cabin up there within the tower。 〃He says that they went up
shouting like demons；〃 continued Maria； and it seemed to me that she
looked as though I ought to be ashamed of the name of an Englishman。
〃They may not be so solemn in their demeanour as Spaniards；〃 I
answered； 〃but； for all that； there may be quite as much in them。〃
We then again began to mount； and before we had ascended much farther
we passed my three countrymen。 They were young men； with gray coats
and gray trousers； with slouched hats； and without gloves。 They had
fair faces and fair hair； and swung big sticks in their hands； with
crooked handles。 They laughed and talked loud； and； when we met
them； seemed to be racing with each other； but nevertheless they were
gentlemen。 No one who knows by sight what an English gentleman is；
could have doubted that； but I did acknowledge to myself that they
should have remembered that the edifice they were treading was a
church； and that the silence they were invading was the cherished
property of a courteous people。
〃They are all just the same as big boys；〃 said Maria。 The colour
instantly flew into my face； and I felt that it was my duty to speak
up for my own countrymen。 The word 〃boys〃 especially wounded my
ears。 It was as a boy that she treated me； but； on looking at that
befringed young Spanish Donwho was not； apparently； my elder in
ageshe had recognised a man。 However； I said nothing further till
I reached the summit。 One cannot speak with manly dignity while one
is out of breath on a staircase。
〃There； John；〃 she said； stretching her hands away over the fair
plain of the Guadalquivir； as soon as we stood against the parapet；
〃is not that lovely？〃
I would not deign to notice this。 〃Maria；〃 I said； 〃I think that you
are too hard upon my countrymen？〃
〃Too hard！ no； for I love them。 They are so good and industrious；
and come home to their wives； and take care of their children。 But
why do they make themselves sosowhat the French call gauche？〃
〃Good and industrious； and come home to their wives！〃 thought I。 〃I
believe you hardly understand us as yet；〃 I answered。 〃Our domestic
virtues are not always so very prominent； but； I believe； we know how
to conduct ourselves as gentlemen： at any rate； as well as
Spaniards。〃 I was very angrynot at the faults； but at the good
qualities imputed to us。
〃In affairs of business； yes；〃 said Maria； with a look of firm
confidence in her own opinionthat look of confidence which she has
never lost； and I pray that she may never lose it while I remain with
her〃but in the little intercourses of the world； no！ A Spaniard
never forgets what is personally due either to himself or his
neighbours。 If he is eating an onion； he eats it as an onion should
be eaten。〃
〃In such matters as that he is very grand； no doubt；〃 said I；
angrily。
〃And why should you not eat an onion properly； John？ Now； I heard a
story yesterday from Donabout two Englishmen； which annoyed me very
much。〃 I did not exactly catch the name of the Don in question but I
felt through every nerve in my body that it was the man who had been
talking to her on the plaza。
〃And what have they done？〃 said I。 〃But it is the same everywhere。
We are always abused； but； nevertheless； no people are so welcome。
At any rate； we pay for the mischief we do。〃 I was angry with myself
the moment the words were out of my mouth； for； after all； there is
no feeling more mean than that pocket…confidence with which an
Englishman sometimes swaggers。
〃There was no mischief done in this case；〃 she answered。 〃It was
simply that two men have made themselves ridiculous for ever。 The
story is all about Seville； and； of course； it annoys me that they
should be Englishmen。〃
〃And what did they do？〃
〃The Marquis D'Almavivas was coming up to Seville in the boat； and
they behaved to him in the most outrageous manner。 He is here now
and is going to give a series of fetes。 Of course he will not ask a
single Englishman。〃
〃We shall manage to live even though the Marquis D'Almavivas may
frown upon us；〃 said I； proudly。
〃He is the richest； and also the best of our noblemen；〃 continued
Maria； 〃and I never heard of anything so absurd as what they did to
him。 It made me blush when Don told me。〃 Don Tomas； I thought
she said。
〃If he be the best of your noblemen； how comes it that he is angry
because he has met two vulgar men？ It is not to be supposed that
every Englishman is a gentleman。〃
〃Angry！ Oh； no！ he was not angry； he enjoyed the joke too much for
that。 He got completely the best of them； though they did not know
it； poor fools！ How would your Lord John Russell behave if two
Spaniards in an English railway carriage were to pull him about and
tear his clothes？〃
〃He would give them in charge to a policeman； of course；〃 said I；
speaking of such a matter with the contempt it deserved。
〃If that were done here your ambassador would be demanding national
explanations。 But Almavivas did much better；he laughed at them
without letting them know it。〃
〃But do you mean that they took hold of him violently； without any
provocation？ They must have been drunk。〃
〃Oh； no； they were sober enough。 I did not see it； so I do not quite
know exactly how it was； but I understand that they committed
themselves most absurdly； absolutely took hold of his coat and tore
it； and； but they did such ridiculous things that I cannot tell
you。〃 And yet Don Tomas； if that was the man's name； had been able
to tell her； and she had been able to listen to him。
〃'What made them take hold of the marquis？〃 said I。
〃Curiosity； I suppose；〃 she answered。 〃He dresses somewhat
fancifully； and they could not understand that any one should wear
garments different from their own。〃 But even then the blow did not
strike home upon me。
〃Is it not pretty to look down upon the quiet town？〃 she said； coming
close up to me； so that the skirt of her dress pressed me； and her
elbow touched my arm。 Now was the moment I should have asked her how
her heart stood towards me； but I was sore and uncomfortable； and my
destiny was before me。 She was willing enough to let these English
faults pass without further notice； but I would not allow the subject
I drop。
〃I will find out who these men were；〃 said I； 〃and learn the truth of
it。 When did it occur？〃
〃Last Thursday； I think he said。〃
〃Why； that was the day we came up in the boat； Johnson and myself。
There was no marquis there then； and we were the only Englishmen on
board。〃
〃It was on Thursday； certainly； because it was well known in Seville
that he arrived on that day。 You must have remarked him because he
talks English perfectlythough by…the…bye； these men would go on
chattering before him about himself as though it were impossible that
a Spaniard should know their language。 They are ignorant of Spanish；
and they cannot bring themselves to believe that any one should b