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undred yearsrefused at first to admit us to the German Lutheran service； which was just beginning。 It seems that doors are locked； and no one is allowed to issue forth until after service。 There seems to be an impression that strangers go only to hear the organ； which is a sort of rival of that at Freiburg； and do not care much for the well…prepared and protracted discourse in Swiss…German。 We agreed to the terms of admission； but it did not speak well for former travelers that the woman should think it necessary to say； 〃You must sit still； and not talk。〃 It is a barn…like interior。 The women all sit on hard； high…backed benches in the center of the church； and the men on hard； higher…backed benches about the sides； inclosing and facing the women； who are more directly under the droppings of the little pulpit； hung on one of the pillars；a very solemn and devout congregation； who sang very well； and paid strict attention to the sermon。
I noticed that the names of the owners； and sometimes their coats…of… arms； were carved or painted on the backs of the seats； as if the pews were not put up at yearly auction。 One would not call it a dressy congregation； though the homely women looked neat in black waists and white puffed sleeves and broadbrimmed hats。
The only concession I have anywhere seen to women in Switzerland； as the more delicate sex； was in this church： they sat during most of the service； but the men stood all the time； except during the delivery of the sermon。 The service began at nine o'clock； as it ought to with us in summer。 The costume of the peasant women in and about Berne comes nearer to being picturesque than in most other parts of Switzerland； where it is simply ugly。 You know the sort of thing in pictures；the broad hat； short skirt） black； pointed stomacher； with white puffed sleeves； and from each breast a large silver chain hanging； which passes under the arm and fastens on the shoulder behind；a very favorite ornament。 This costume would not be unbecoming to a pretty face and figure： whether there are any such native to Switzerland； I trust I may not be put upon the witness… stand to declare。 Some of the peasant young men went without coats； and with the shirt sleeves fluted； and others wore butternut…colored suits； the coats of which I can recommend to those who like the swallow…tailed variety。 I suppose one would take a man into the opera in London； where he cannot go in anything but that sort。 The buttons on the backs of these came high up between the shoulders； and the tails did not reach below the waistband。 There is a kind of rooster of similar appearance。 I saw some of these young men from the country； with their sweethearts； leaning over the stone parapet； and looking into the pit of the bear…garden； where the city bears walk round； or sit on their hind legs for bits of bread thrown to them； or douse themselves in the tanks； or climb the dead trees set up for their gambols。 Years ago they ate up a British officer who fell in； and they walk round now ceaselessly； as if looking for another。 But one cannot expect good taste in a bear。
If you would see how charming a farming country can be； drive out on the highway towards Thun。 For miles it is well shaded with giant trees of enormous trunks； and a clean sidewalk runs by the fine road。 On either side； at little distances from the road； are picturesque cottages and rambling old farmhouses peeping from the trees and vines and flowers。 Everywhere flowers； before the house； in the windows； at the railway stations。 But one cannot stay forever even in delightful Berne； with its fountains and terraces； and girls on red cushions in the windows； and noble trees and flowers； and its stately federal Capitol； and its bears carved everywhere in stone and wood； and its sunrises； when all the Bernese Alps lie like molten silver in the early light； and the clouds drift over them； now hiding； now disclosing； the enchanting heights。
HEARING THE FREIBURG ORGANFIRST SIGHT OF LAKE LEMAN
Freiburg； with its aerial suspension…bridges； is also on a peninsula； formed by the Sarine； with its old walls； old watch…towers； its piled…up old houses； and streets that go upstairs； and its delicious cherries； which you can eat while you sit in the square by the famous linden…tree； and wait for the time when the organ will be played in the cathedral。 For all the world stops at Freiburg to hear and enjoy the great organ；all except the self…satisfied English clergyman； who says he does n't care much for it； and would rather go about town and see the old walls； and the young and boorish French couple； whose refined amusement in the railway…carriage consisted in the young man's catching his wife's foot in the window…strap； and hauling it up to the level of the window； and who cross themselves and go out after the first tune； and the two bread…and…butter English young ladies； one of whom asks the other in the midst of the performance； if she has thought yet to count the pipes；a thoughtful verification of Murray； which is very commendable in a young woman traveling for the improvement of her little mind。
One has heard so much of this organ； that he expects impossibilities； and is at first almost disappointed； although it is not long in discovering its vast compass； and its wonderful imitations； now of a full orchestra； and again of a single instrument。 One has not to wait long before he is mastered by its spell。 The vox humana stop did not strike me as so perfect as that of the organ in the Rev。 Mr。 Hale's church in Boston； though the imitation of choir…voices responding to the organ was very effective。 But it is not in tricks of imitation that this organ is so wonderful： it is its power of revealing； by all its compass； the inmost part of any musical composition。
The last piece we heard was something like this： the sound of a bell； tolling at regular intervals； like the throbbing of a life begun； about it an accompaniment of hopes； inducements； fears； the flute； the violin； the violoncello； promising； urging； entreating； inspiring； the life beset with trials； lured with pleasures； hesitating； doubting； questioning； its purpose at length grows more certain and fixed； the bell tolling becomes a prolonged undertone； the flow of a definite life； the music goes on； twining round it； now one sweet instrument and now many； in strife or accord； all the influences of earth and heaven and the base underworld meeting and warring over the aspiring soul； the struggle becomes more earnest； the undertone is louder and clearer； the accompaniment indicates striving； contesting passion； an agony of endeavor and resistance； until at length the steep and rocky way is passed； the world and self are conquered； and； in a burst of triumph from a full orchestra； the soul attains the serene summit。 But the rest is only for a moment。 Even in the highest places are temptations。 The sunshine fails； clouds roll up； growling of low； pedal thunder is heard； while sharp lightning…flashes soon break in clashing peals about the peaks。 This is the last Alpine storm and trial。 After it the sun bursts out again； the wide； sunny valleys are disclosed； and a sweet evening hymn floats