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with occasional hilarity。 But music we had； early and late。 We expected quiet in our present quarters。 The first morning； at six o'clock； we were startled by the resonant notes of a military band； that set the echoes flying between the houses； and a regiment of cavalry went clanking down the street。 But that is a not unwelcome morning serenade and reveille。 Not so agreeable is the young man next door； who gives hilarious concerts to his friends； and sings and bangs his piano all day Sunday； nor the screaming young woman opposite。 Yet it is something to be in an atmosphere of music。
THE MILITARY LIFE OF MUNICH
This morning I was awakened early by the strains of a military band。 It was a clear； sparkling morning； the air full of life； and yet the sun showing its warm； southern side。 As the mounted musicians went by； the square was quite filled with the clang of drum and trumpet； which became fainter and fainter； and at length was lost on the ear beyond the Isar； but preserved the perfection of time and the precision of execution for which the military bands of the city are remarkable。 After the band came a brave array of officers in bright uniform； upon horses that pranced and curveted in the sunshine； and the regiment of cavalry followed； rank on rank of splendidly mounted men； who ride as if born to the saddle。 The clatter of hoofs on the pavement； the jangle of bit and saber； the occasional word of command； the onward sweep of the well…trained cavalcade； continued for a long time； as if the lovely morning had brought all the cavalry in the city out of barracks。 But this is an almost daily sight in Munich。 One regiment after another goes over the river to the drill…ground。 In the hot mornings I used quite to pity the troopers who rode away in the glare in scorching brazen helmets and breastplates。 But only a portion of the regiments dress in that absurd manner。 The most wear a simple uniform； and look very soldierly。 The horses are almost invariably fine animals； and I have not seen such riders in Europe。 Indeed； everybody in Munich who rides at all rides well。 Either most of the horsemen have served in the cavalry； or horsemanship； that noble art 〃to witch the world；〃 is in high repute here。
Speaking of soldiers； Munich is full of them。 There are huge caserns in every part of the city； crowded with troops。 This little kingdom of Bavaria has a hundred and twenty thousand troops of the line。 Every man is obliged to serve in the army continuously three years； and every man between the ages of twenty…one and forty…five must go with his regiment into camp or barrack several weeks in each year； no matter if the harvest rots in the field； or the customers desert the uncared…for shop。 The service takes three of the best years of a young man's life。 Most of the soldiers in Munich are young one meets hundreds of mere boys in the uniform of officers。 I think every seventh man you meet is a soldier。 There must be between fifteen and twenty thousand troops quartered in the city now。 The young officers are everywhere； lounging in the cafes； smoking and sipping coffee； on all the public promenades； in the gardens； the theaters； the churches。 And most of them are fine…looking fellows； good figures in elegantly fitting and tasteful uniforms； but they do like to show their handsome forms and hear their sword…scabbards rattle on the pavement as they stride by。 The beer…gardens are full of the common soldiers； who empty no end of quart mugs in alternate pulls from the same earthen jug； with the utmost jollity and good fellowship。 On the street； salutes between officers and men are perpetual； punctiliously given and returned；the hand raised to the temple； and held there for a second。 A young gallant； lounging down the Theatiner or the Maximilian Strasse； in his shining and snug uniform； white kids； and polished boots； with jangling spurs and the long sword clanking on the walk； raising his hand ever and anon in condescending salute to a lower in rank； or with affable grace to an equal； is a sight worth beholding； and for which one cannot be too grateful。 We have not all been created with the natural shape for soldiers； but we have eyes given us that we may behold them。
Bavaria fought； you know； on the wrong side at Sadowa； but the result of the war left her in confederation with Prussia。 The company is getting to be very distasteful； for Austria is at present more liberal than Prussia。 Under Prussia one must either be a soldier or a slave； the democrats of Munich say。 Bavaria has the most liberal constitution in Germany； except that of Wurtemberg； and the people are jealous of any curtailment of liberty。 It seems odd that anybody should look to the house of Hapsburg for liberality。 The attitude of Prussia compels all the little states to keep up armies； which eat up their substance； and burden the people with taxes。 This is the more to be regretted now； when Bavaria is undergoing a peaceful revolution； and throwing off the trammels of galling customs in other respects。
THE EMANCIPATION OF MUNICH
The 1st of September saw go into complete effect the laws enacted in 1867； which have inaugurated the greatest changes in business and social life； and mark an era in the progress of the people worthy of fetes and commemorative bronzes。 We heard the other night at the opera…house 〃William Tell〃 unmutilated。 For many years this liberty… breathing opera was not permitted to be given in Bavaria； except with all the life of it cut out。 It was first presented entire by order of young King Ludwig； who； they say； was induced to command its unmutilated reproduction at the solicitation of Richard Wagner； who used to be； and very likely is now； a 〃Red；〃 and was banished from Saxony in 1848 for fighting on the people's side of a barricade in Dresden。 It is the fashion to say of the young king； that he pays no heed to the business of the kingdom。 You hear that the handsome boy cares only for music and horseback exercise： he plays much on the violin； and rides away into the forest attended by only one groom； and is gone for days together。 He has composed an opera； which has not yet been put on the stage。 People； when they speak of him； tap their foreheads with one finger。 But I don't believe it。 The same liberality that induced him； years ago； to restore 〃William Tell〃 to the stage has characterized the government under him ever since。
Formerly no one could engage in any trade or business in Bavaria without previous examination before； and permission from； a magistrate。 If a boy wished to be a baker； for instance； he had first to serve four years of apprenticeship。 If then he wished to set up business for himself； he must get permission； after passing an examination。 This permission could rarely be obtained； for the magistrate usually decided that there were already as many bakers as the town needed。 His only other resource was to buy out an existing business； and this usually costs a good deal。 When he petitioned for the privilege of starting a bakery； all the bakers protested。 And he could not even buy out a stand； and carry it on； without strict examination as to qualifications。 This w