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y Bavarian kreuzers are equal to one hundred Austrian； but this waiter explains to me that my gulden is only good for ninety kreuzers。 I； in my turn； explain to the waiter that it is better than the coffee； but we come to no understanding； and I give up； before I begin； trying to understand the Austrian currency。 During the day I get my pockets full of coppers； which are very convenient to take in change； but appear to have a very slight purchasing； power in Austria even； and none at all elsewhere； and the only use for which I have found is to give to Italian beggars。 One of these pieces satisfies a beggar when it drops into his hat； and then it detains him long enough in the examination of it； so that your carriage has time to get so far away that his renewed pursuit is usually unavailing。
The Brenner Pass repaid us for the pains we had taken to see it； especially as the sun shone and took the frost from our windows； and we encountered no snow on the track； and； indeed； the fall was not deep； except on the high peaks about us。 Even if the engineering of the road were not so interesting； it was something to be again amidst mountains that can boast a height of ten thousand feet。 After we passed the summit； and began the zigzag descent； we were on a sharp lookout for sunny Italy。 I expected to lay aside my heavy overcoat； and sun myself at the first station among the vineyards。 Instead of that； we bade good…by to bright sky； and plunged into a snowstorm； and； so greeted； drove down into the narrow gorges； whose steep slopes we could see were terraced to the top； and planted with vines。 We could distinguish enough to know that； with the old Roman ruins； the churches and convent towers perched on the crags； and all； the scenery in summer must be finer than that of the Rhine； especially as the vineyards here are picturesque；the vines being trained so as to hide and clothe the ground with verdure。
It was four o'clock when we reached Trent； and colder than on top of the Brenner。 As the Council； owing to the dead state of its members for now three centuries； was not in session； we made no long tarry。 We went into the magnificent large refreshment…room to get warm； but it was as cold as a New England barn。 I asked the proprietor if we could not get at a fire； but he insisted that the room was warm； that it was heated with a furnace； and that he burned good stove…coal； and pointed to a register high up in the wall。 Seeing that I looked incredulous； he insisted that I should test it。 Accordingly； I climbed upon a table； and reached up my hand。 A faint warmth came out； and I gave it up； and congratulated the landlord on his furnace。 But the register had no effect on the great hall。 You might as well try to heat the dome of St。 Peter's with a lucifer…match。 At dark； Allah be praised！ we reached Ala； where we went through the humbug of an Italian custom…house； and had our first glimpse of Italy in the picturesque…looking idlers in red…tasseled caps； and the jabber of a strange tongue。 The snow turned into a cold rain： the foot…warmers； we having reached the sunny lands； could no longer be afforded； and we shivered along till nine o'clock； dark and rainy； brought us to Verona。 We emerged from the station to find a crowd of omnibuses； carriages； drivers； runners； and people anxious to help us； all vociferating in the highest key。 Amidst the usual Italian clamor about nothing； we gained our hotel omnibus； and sat there for ten minutes watching the dispute over our luggage； and serenely listening to the angry vituperations of policemen and drivers。 It sounded like a revolution； but it was only the ordinary Italian way of doing things； and we were at last rattling away over the broad pavements。
Of course； we stopped at a palace turned hotel； drove into a court with double flights of high stone and marble stairways； and were hurried up to the marble…mosaic landing by an active boy； and； almost before we could ask for rooms； were shown into a suite of magnificent apartments。 I had a glimpse of a garden in the rear；flowers and plants； and a balcony up which I suppose Romeo climbed to hold that immortal love…prattle with the lovesick Juliet。 Boy began to light the candles。 Asked in English the price of such fine rooms。 Reply in Italian。 Asked in German。 Reply in Italian。 Asked in French； with the same result。 Other servants appeared； each with a piece of baggage。 Other candles were lighted。 Everybody talked in chorus。 The landladya woman of elegant manners and great command of her native tongueappeared with a candle； and joined in the melodious confusion。 What is the price of these rooms？ More jabber； more servants bearing lights。 We seemed suddenly to have come into an illumination and a private lunatic asylum。 The landlady and her troop grew more and more voluble and excited。 Ah； then； if these rooms do not suit the signor and signoras； there are others； and we were whisked off to apartments yet grander； great suites with high； canopied beds； mirrors； and furniture that was luxurious a hundred years ago。 The price？ Again a torrent of Italian； servants pouring in； lights flashing； our baggage arriving； until； in the tumult； hopeless of any response to our inquiry for a servant who could speak anything but Italian； and when we had decided； in despair； to hire the entire establishment； a waiter appeared who was accomplished in all languages； the row subsided； and we were left alone in our glory； and soon in welcome sleep forgot our desperate search for a warm climate。
The next day it was rainy and not warm； but the sun came out occasionally； and we drove about to see some of the sights。 The first Italian town which the stranger sees he is sure to remember； the outdoor life of the people is so different from that at the North。 It is the fiction in Italy that it is always summer； and the people sit in the open market…place； shiver in the open doorways； crowd into corners where the sun comes； and try to keep up the beautiful pretense。 The picturesque groups of idlers and traffickers were more interesting to us than the palaces with sculptured fronts and old Roman busts； or tombs of the Scaligers； and old gates。 Perhaps I ought to except the wonderful and perfect Roman amphitheater； over every foot of which a handsome boy in rags followed us； looking over every wall that we looked over； peering into every hole that we peered into； thus showing his fellowship with us； and at every pause planting himself before us； and throwing a somerset； and then extending his greasy cap for coppers； as if he knew that the modern mind ought not to dwell too exclusively on hoary antiquity without some relief。
Anxious； as I have said； to find the sunny South； we left Verona that afternoon for Florence； by way of Padua and Bologna。 The ride to Padua was through a plain； at this season dreary enough； were it not； here and there； for the abrupt little hills and the snowy Alps； which were always in sight； and towards sundown and between showers transcendently lovely in a purple and rosy light。 But nothing now could be more desolate than the rows of unending mulberry…trees； pruned down to the stumps； through which we rode all