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ts upon the windy terraces； and stand； arms akimbo； staring at us； and not seldom hailing us in harsh voices。 Their sole dress is often a single split and torn gown； not reaching to the bare knees； evidently the original of those in the Naples ballet （it will； no doubt； be different when those creatures exchange the ballet for the ballot）； and； with their tangled locks and dirty faces； they seem rather beasts than women。 Are their husbands brigands； and are they in wait for us in the chestnut…grove yonder？
The grove is charming； and the men we meet there gathering sticks are not so surly as the women。 They point the way； and when we emerge from the wood； St。 Maria a Castello is before us on a height； its white and red church shining in the sun。 We climb up to it。 In front is a broad； flagged terrace； and on the edge are deep wells in the rock； from which we draw cool water。 Plentifully victualed； one could stand a siege here； and perhaps did in the gamey Middle Ages。 Monk or soldier need not wish a pleasanter place to lounge。 Adjoining the church； but lower； is a long； low building with three rooms； at once house and stable； the stable in the center； though all of them have hay in the lofts。 The rooms do not communicate。 That is the whole of the town of St。 Maria a Castello。
In one of the apartments some rough…looking peasants are eating dinner； a frugal meal： a dish of unclean polenta； a plate of grated cheese； a basket of wormy figs； and some sour red wine； no bread； no meat。 They looked at us askance； and with no sign of hospitality。 We made friends； however； with the ragged children； one of whom took great delight in exhibiting his litter of puppies； and we at length so far worked into the good graces of the family that the mother was prevailed upon to get us some milk and eggs。 I followed the woman into one of the apartments to superintend the cooking of the eggs。 It was a mere den； with an earth floor。 A fire of twigs was kindled against the farther wall； and a little girl； half…naked； carrying a baby still more economically clad； was stooping down to blow the smudge into a flame。 The smoke； some of it； went over our heads out at the door。 We boiled the eggs。 We desired salt； and the woman brought us pepper in the berry。 We insisted on salt； and at length got the rock variety； which we pounded on the rocks。 We ate our eggs and drank our milk on the terrace； with the entire family interested spectators。 The men were the hardest…looking ruffians we had met yet： they were making a bit of road near by； but they seemed capable of turning their hands to easier money…getting； and there couldn't be a more convenient place than this。
When our repast was over； and I had drunk a glass of wine with the proprietor； I offered to pay him； tendering what I knew was a fair price in this region。 With some indignation of gesture； he refused it； intimating that it was too little。 He seemed to be seeking an excuse for a quarrel with us； so I pocketed the affront； money and all； and turned away。 He appeared to be surprised； and going indoors presently came out with a bottle of wine and glasses； and followed us down upon the rocks； pressing us to drink。 Most singular conduct； no doubt drugged wine； travelers put into deep sleep； robbed； thrown over precipice； diplomatic correspondence； flattering； but no compensation to them。 Either this； or a case of hospitality。 We declined to drink； and the brigand went away。
We sat down upon the jutting ledge of a precipice； the like of which is not in the world： on our left； the rocky； bare side of St。 Angelo； against which the sunshine dashes in waves； below us； sheer down two thousand feet） the city of Positano； a nest of brown houses； thickly clustered on a conical spur； and lying along the shore； the home of three thousand people；with a running jump I think I could land in the midst of it；a pygmy city； inhabited by mites； as we look down upon it； a little beach of white sand； a sailboat lying on it； and some fishermen just embarking； a long hotel on the beach； beyond； by the green shore； a country seat charmingly situated amid trees and vines； higher up； the ravine…seamed hill； little stone huts； bits of ruin； towers； arches。 How still it is！ All the stiller that I can； now and then； catch the sound of an axe； and hear the shouts of some children in a garden below。 How still the sea is！ How many ages has it been so？ Does the purple mist always hang there upon the waters of Salerno Bay； forever hiding from the gaze Paestum and its temples； and all that shore which is so much more Grecian than Roman？
After all； it is a satisfaction to turn to the towering rock of St。 Angelo； not a tree； not a shrub； not a spire of grass； on its perpendicular side。 We try to analyze the satisfaction there is in such a bald； treeless； verdureless mass。 We can grasp it intellectually； in its sharp solidity； which is undisturbed by any ornament： it is； to the mind； like some complete intellectual performance； the mind rests on it； like a demonstration in Euclid。 And yet what a color of beauty it takes on in the distance！
When we return； the bandits have all gone to their road…making： the suspicious landlord is nowhere to be seen。 We call the woman from the field； and give her money； which she seemed not to expect； and for which she shows no gratitude。 Life appears to be indifferent to these people。 But； if these be brigands； we prefer them to those of Naples； and even to the innkeepers of England。 As we saunter home in the pleasant afternoon； the vesper…bells are calling to each other； making the sweetest echoes of peace everywhere in the hills； and all the piano is jubilant with them； as we come down the steeps at sunset。
〃You see there was no danger；〃 said the giant to his wife that evening at the supper…table。
〃You would have found there was danger； if you had gone；〃 returned the wife of the giant significantly。
THE MYTH OF THE SIRENS
I like to walk upon the encircling ridge behind Sorrento； which commands both bays。 From there I can look down upon the Isles of the Sirens。 The top is a broad； windy strip of pasture； which falls off abruptly to the Bay of Salerno on the south： a regular embankment of earth runs along the side of the precipitous steeps； towards Sorrento。 It appears to be a line of defence for musketry； such as our armies used to throw up： whether the French； who conducted siege operations from this promontory on Capri； under Murat； had anything to do with it； does not appear。
Walking there yesterday； we met a woman shepherdess； cowherd； or sirenstanding guard over three steers while they fed； a scantily… clad； brown woman； who had a distaff in her hand； and spun the flax as she watched the straying cattle； an example of double industry which the men who tend herds never imitate。 Very likely her ancestors so spun and tended cattle on the plains of Thessaly。 We gave the rigid woman good…morning； but she did not heed or reply； we made some inquiries as to paths； but she ignored us； we bade her good…day； and she scowled at us： she only spun。 She was so out of tune with the people； and the gentle influences of this region； that we could