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as at the present day。 Every spring became a centre of attraction。 The
ruins of the ancient Kythrea have been partially excavated by the
indefatigable General di Cesnola； but with unimportant results； as the
ground is under artificial irrigation； and is in the highest
cultivation； therefore it cannot be disturbed。
The chief industry of modern times which adds to the importance of
Kythrea； is the production of silk； from the great abundance of
mulberry…trees which supply the necessary food for the silkworms； but it
has suffered to a considerable degree； in common with most silk…growing
districts in Cyprus； by the want of foresight of the producers； these
people have within the last few years sold the seed in such extravagant
quantities to the traders of Beyrout as to leave the island with a short
supply。 The result of this sacrifice for the sake of ready money is a
serious reduction in the general produce； and in many portions of the
island the mulberry…trees are flourishing without a silkworm to feed
upon them。 The thirty…two flour…mills of Kythrea are worked by a fall of
400 feet between the head…water of the spring to the base of the lowest
mill at the foot of the mountains。 It appeared to me that much water is
wasted by an absence of scientific control。 A series of reservoirs would
store the excess during the hours when the mills are idle （similar to
the mill…ponds in England）； but as there is no municipal law upon this
important subject； the all…important stream is much neglected。 There is
a general demand for grinding…power throughout Cyprus； the corn is
brought from great distances to the mills of Kythrea at a considerable
expense of transport； I have met droves of mules laden with wheat and
barley on their way from Larnaca； to which distant spot they would again
return when their loads should have been reduced to flour。 In the face
of this difficulty a general want of energy and of the necessary capital
is exhibited by the total neglect of wind…power； in a country where a
steady breeze is the rule； with few exceptions。 Throughout the great
plain of Messaria windmills would be invaluable； both for grinding
purposes and for raising water； nothing would be more simple than the
combination of the wind…vane with the cattle…pump； but this great and
almost omnipresent power is absolutely ignored。
On our return to camp in the evening； I resolved to have a quiet day
with my dogs on the following morning； when I could stroll at my leisure
over the mountains； and enjoy myself thoroughly according to my own
tastes； sometimes obtaining a shot at game； and observing every object
in nature。
It was 15th February； and with a native guide and interpreter who spoke
Arabic； which was my medium of dialogue； I started to cross the
mountain…range upon the east of the well…known five…knuckled…top named
〃Pentadactylon。〃 At the expense of repetition I cannot help extracting
from my diary the exact words of description rough from the first
impulse： 〃The base of this range is an extraordinary example of the
action of rainfall in melting and washing down into conical mounds
several hundred feet high； what was originally a high level of
continuous but alternating strata of marls and alluvium that had
descended from the higher mountains。 These vast masses are in a chaotic
confusion of separate heaps； which at a distance resemble volcanic
cones。 We rode up precipitous paths edging upon deep chasms between
these conical hills； and emerged upon metamorphous rocks and shale
mingled in curious irregularity。 The strata of shale were in some
instances nearly vertical； proving the disturbance that had been
occasioned by a subsequent upheaval。 About 200 feet above this formation
we entered upon the dark grey jurassic limestone； and the soil became a
rich red like that of South Devon。 The rock scenery was very imposing as
we increased our altitude and arrived upon plateaux of considerable
extent。 There can be no doubt that these natural terrace…like surfaces
and various hollows accumulate the rainfall of a great area； and that
some vast subterranean caverns in the limestone form natural reservoirs；
which supply the celebrated springs of Kythrea throughout the year。〃
I believe these few words contain the real secret of the springs； which
have been； and still are； considered to have a mysterious origin。 Some
people indulge in the theory that the water is forced by hydraulic
pressure at the superior altitude of Caramania in Asia Minor； and
passing by a subterranean conduit far beneath the bottom of the
intervening channel； it ascends at the peculiar rock…mouth of Kythrea。
This is simple nonsense； and can only be accepted by those who adore the
unreal； instead of the guide； 〃common…sense。〃 The actual volume of the
outflow at Kythrea has never been calculated； although the problem is
most simple； but a cursory examination is sufficient to explain the
origin of the supply which a certain superficial mountain area collects
and stores during the rainy seasons： to yield gradually through some
small aperture or leak in a grand subterranean reservoir。
In all countries where water is scarce； unfailing springs are objects of
veneration； and are clothed not only with undying verdure； but with a
continuous growth of legends： from the day when Moses smote the rock in
the wilderness； and the stream gushed forth to the thirsty Israelites；
to the present hour； water； which is man's first necessity； will in
drought…smitten countries be hailed with more than usual reverence。 The
devout Mussulman sinks a well and erects a fountain for the public good；
and his friends bury his body in the neighbourhood of his last act。
〃Rest； weary pilgrim； rest and pray
For the kind soul of Sybil Grey；
Who built this Cross and Well。〃
Christian and Mahommedan； and all creeds and races； men and animals；
yield unanimously to the great want； which in a thirsty land alone will
bring the lion and the lamb to drink in the same stream。 I have myself
seen in moonlight； animals of various and conflicting natures revelling
in the rest of nature's armistice； drinking in crowds at the solitary
pool； the only source of water in the desert。
The Cypriotes in their natural love of the marvellous insist upon the
mystery attached to the Kythrea springs； but they attach no importance
to the extensive subterranean water…stores of the Messaria plain； simply
because they do not see it issue from the ground： still the fact is
there； the water in vast quantities always exists； and were it tapped at
a higher level； it would flow （as it actually does in certain places）；
and exhibit the same principle upon a much larger scale than the
romantic and picturesque mountain springs of Kythrea。
As we increased our altitude the scenery improved in interest： we were
no longer in barren mounds of water…washed debris； but the rich soil
among the dark grey rocks gave birth to numerous shrubs； including the
evergreen mastic； arbutus； and the dwarf cypress。 Although the route was
only marked by the continual tracks of the lime…burner's mules； our
sturdy animals mounted the steep rocky ascents with c