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cyprus, as i saw it in 1879-第26章

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belongs to him or to another proprietor。 The ground sloped gradually to
the lowest level of the hollow about four hundred yards distant; all of
which was in cultivation; the broad…beans were in blossom; and a species
of trefoil was already eight or nine inches high (22nd February); this
was in anticipation of a lack of natural pasturage。

It was pitiable to see the wretched condition of the cattle throughout
this district; the absence of rain had prevented the growth of the usual
herbaceous plants; and the animals were forced to seek unnatural food
produced in the stagnant swamps; these were full of skeletons and
carcasses of oxen; that afforded bones of contention for the numerous
village dogs who acted as scavengers。 When the droves of oxen returned
from pasture every evening; many were in a state of weakness that
scarcely allowed them step by step to ascend the rising ground; all were
reduced to mere skin and bones; and it would have been a mercy to have
put them out of their misery。 I was assured that; 〃the few whose
constitution could hold out for another six weeks would recover when the
trefoil should be fit to cut。〃

I daily walked over the adjoining country; and there was little
difficulty in discovering the origin of M。 Mattei's water sources。 Upon
the heights behind our camp; a plateau of many miles in extent; with an
almost imperceptible inclination towards the south…east; received the
rainfall; in addition to the subterranean drainage of the hills in the
far distance。 A great portion of this area was uncultivated; as the
sedimentary limestone was generally close to the surface; this was
covered with the usual prickly shrubs that some writers have misnamed
〃heath;〃 together with the highly aromatic herbs that seem to delight in
a thirsty soil; among these is a thorny species of wild thyme; that is a
favourite food for hares。 In some places the soil was red; forming a
strong contrast to the white surface around; and in such spots the earth
had been already ploughed in preparation for the forthcoming season。 The
large area at a higher altitude formed an example of a principle that
may be accepted as the rule throughout the island。 In walking over this
extensive surface; there was occasionally a hollow; drum…like sound
beneath the feet; denoting subterranean cavities in the porous and
soluble strata beneath the harder upper stratum。 It was a natural
consequence that a substratum impervious to water should form a bed at a
certain level to retain the drainage: by tapping this bed at any point;
the water would be discovered; but by piercing the surface below this
level; the hydraulic pressure would force the water into a running
stream。

This M。 Mattei has accomplished; not as a new invention; but as the
application of a rule well known to the Cypriotes from ancient times;
and I repeat my argument; that; 〃the hereditary ability of these people
in discovering and utilising springs is a proof that a scarcity of water
has been a chronic difficulty in this island from remote periods; and
that no important change has been occasioned by the sensational
destruction of forests influencing the rainfall;〃 &c。; &c。; &c。 In my
opinion; the whole of the now desolate Messaria district may be rendered
fruitful and permanently abundant by the scientific employment of a
water…power which already exists; although unseen and undeveloped。

It was quite impossible to proceed to Famagousta with the vans; and
there was no object in courting their destruction by a desperate advance
at all hazards; as we should have in any case been obliged eventually to
renew the difficulty when retracing our route。 I therefore cantered in
upon my mule; with the guide who always lost his way; Hadji Christo。
This man was a great ruffian; and had laws existed for the prevention of
cruelty to animals; I would have prosecuted him; nominally he had the
charge of the mule and two ponies; but he illtreated these poor animals;
and the donkeys also; in a disgraceful manner。 However; I had no other
guide; and although I knew him to be in partnership with some
Will…o'…the…wisp; I was obliged to follow him。 It was an easy course for
saddle…animals; as the cathedral of Famagousta formed the prominent
point; therefore a steeple…chase might have been the direct
cross…country way。 There was no change in the usual features of the
barren landscape。 We kept upon the high ground on the right; looking
down upon the dreary flat for twenty miles to our left。 Occasionally we
passed villages; all of which were mere copies of each other in filth
and squalor。 The dogs barked and snapped ineffectually at our heels as
we cantered through; the civil and ever…courteous people turned out and
salaamed; and we quickly accomplished the twelve miles and approached
the walls of Famagousta。 Nothing that I saw in Cyprus has impressed me
so much as the site of this powerful fortress and once important city。 I
lunched with Captain Inglis; who as chief commissioner of the district;
most kindly received me; and I rode home afterwards; my guide; Hadji
Christo; in spite of my assurances that he had mistaken the route;
persisted that there were many; and not one; and after plunging into
muddy marshes instead of keeping to the high ground; we were completely
lost near sundown; when I happily extricated myself from the difficulty
by insisting upon his riding behind and leaving me alone to find the
track。 We arrived at nightfall; after making eighteen miles out of
twelvea profitable enterprise hardly appreciated by our tired animals。
Famagousta is too important for a cursory description; I shall therefore
reserve it for a future chapter; when on our return from the Carpas
district we pass some days in its immediate neighbourhood。



CHAPTER V。

START FOR THE CARPAS。

I determined to leave my two vans in charge of the head…man of Kuklia;
as the drivers declared it would be impossible to proceed into the
roadless Carpas with any wheeled conveyance heavier than the native
two…wheeled cart。 They had accordingly entered into a contract to supply
me with vehicles which the man of ability Theodori assured me could
travel to the extreme eastern limit of the island; Cape St。 Andrea; 〃as
he had been there himself; and knew the way。〃 Georgi; who knew nothing
of this portion of the country; believed all that Theodori said; and did
his bidding。 Having lightened the loads by leaving all that was not
absolutely necessary safely locked within the vans; we started on 1st
March with camels; in addition to two native carts; taking the route
direct east; across the extensive flat which at this time was dry and
hard。 There was nothing of interest in the day's march; the travelling
was easy along the hardened level surface; we had a clear view of the
cathedral and higher forts of Famagousta; and we passed near the ruins
of Salamis; easily distinguishing the solitary pillars that had
supported the ancient aqueduct which led the water from distant Kythrea。

Although everything was thoroughly dried up; it was easy to imagine the
effect of an inundation of the Pedias river; which had formed this delta
of alluvium; precisely as
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