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security。
The country now became exceedingly wild and rugged。 The sea was in many
places exactly below us as we skirted the cliffs and occasionally
crossed the beaches of narrow coves。 The high mountain upon our
immediate left was the western terminus of the Carpas range； and
exhibited peculiar geological features； eruptive rocks having burst in
some places through the limestone and created great disturbance。 The
route was exceedingly interesting and beautiful； rocks of every shade of
colour were mingled with bright green foliage； the sea was an emerald
green in the shallow coves； and dark blue within a few hundred paces of
the shore； while a brisk breeze curled the waves and tipped their crests
with a glistening white。 The path at length turned to the left and led
through a gap that rounded the mountain base； and formed the extreme end
of the Jurassic limestone； which only exists in Cyprus in the peculiar
wall…like Carpasian range running from west to east upon the northern
coast。
We crossed a stream of water at the bottom of the gorge which winds
through the narrow glen that terminates the range； and ascending upon
the opposite side； we at once entered upon steep slopes composed of
marls interspersed with an exceedingly bright rose…coloured marble in
veins of about two feet thickness。 This would probably develop
considerable blocks if quarried to a greater depth。
Continuing for about two miles along the glen； which was cultivated with
barley in all available localities； we several times crossed the stream
in its winding course； and my dogs hunted the steep myrtle…covered banks
in expectation of game； but nothing moved； and the croaking of numerous
frogs was the only sign of life。 The glen now widened to a valley about
a mile and three…quarters in diameter； surrounded upon all sides by
heights； and we commenced one of the steepest ascents in Cyprus； up the
face of the slope about 1000 feet above the bottom。 The zigzags were
upon a surface of white marl； which during wet weather would become as
slippery as soap； and be impassable for loaded animals。 Many times our
mules were forced to halt and rest； but they were good and sure…footed
beasts； that could always be depended upon。
At length we gained the summit； which was a total change of scene。
Instead of descending upon the other side； as I had expected； we had
arrived at a plateau eight or nine miles in length from north to south；
and an invisible distance from east to west。 The soil was a rich reddish
chocolate； forming a grateful contrast to the glaring white marls that
we had just quitted； and which composed the steep hills that surrounded
the lower basin。 A growth of young pines and other evergreen shrubs
ornamented the surface； and at about a quarter of a mile from the summit
of the pass by which we had arrived we halted at a well of pure water
among a small grove of olive…trees。 Although we were at least 1000 feet
above the valley； the water was only ten feet from the coping…stone by
measurement。 There could be little doubt that the perennial stream in
the deep glen was the result of the drainage of this extensive
table…land； corresponding with similar heights upon the other side。
Having breakfasted by the well of deliciously cold water； we remounted；
and continued our route along the extensive table…land。 This was
cultivated in many places； but as we advanced for two or three miles the
country became exceedingly wild； and we entered a wood of Pinus
maritima； composed of young trees of several years' growth； and older
stems that had been mutilated in the disgraceful manner that
characterises all Cyprian forests。 There was not one perfect tree above
eight years' growth； but every stem had been cut off about six feet from
the top for the sake of the straight pole。 Trees of fifteen years or
more had been mercilessly hacked for the small amount of turpentine that
such trunks would produce； and the bark had been ripped off for tanning。
Great quantities of mastic bushes covered the surface between the pines；
and even these exhibited the continual attacks of the woodcutter's
grubbing…axe； which had torn up the roots； in addition to the stems； for
the requirements of the lime…burner。 The red soil is so propitious to
the growth of pines that； in spite of the unremitting destruction； the
ground was covered with young plants； self…sown from the fallen cones。
If these young forests were protected for twelve or fourteen years； the
surface would again be restored to the original woodland that once
ornamented this portion of the island。 Under the present conditions of
Cyprus all wholesome laws and enactments are practically ridiculed by
the inhabitants； as there are no foresters or keepers to enforce the
orders of the government。 A governor may sit upon the top of Olympus and
issue wise decrees like Jupiter； but unfortunately he does not possess
the thunderbolts； as the country is so poor that it cannot afford to pay
the salaries necessary for the support of foresters and the officers
required for this special department。 I myself met droves of donkeys and
mules loaded with wood and accompanied by their owners with their
destructive axes； all wending their way through the forest to the town
of Morphu； which is thus supplied with fuel for baking； cooking； lime…
burning； and all other purposes。
It is impossible to feel amiable when passing through these desolating
scenes； where nature； originally so beautiful； has been defaced； and the
people； instead of deriving pleasure from natural beauties； are obtuse
to all the surroundings； which； according to educated taste； would
ensure appreciation。 I felt inclined to upset the donkeys； capture their
proprietors； and 。 。 。 I could not have hung them upon the trees that
they had defaced； for no bough had been left that would have supported
their weight 。 。 。 and there was no rope。
While these vindictive and statesman…likethoughts boiled within me； the
naturally courteous people made their graceful salaams as we passed； and
studiously conducted their heavily…laden donkeys out of the path to make
way for our advance； that otherwise would have been effectually choked
by the throng of bush…and…faggot…laden animals； which looked like
〃Birnam…wood marching to Dunsinane。〃 In my heart I immediately forgave
the poor people； I knew that the man with the axe who marched behind was
as ignorant； and not so strong； as his donkey who carried the load。 They
had been both subjects of a bad government； and it was not their fault
that they were despoilers。 You might as well blame the wind for the
destruction of venerable trees； or the locusts for devouring the crops；
they were ungoverned； and unfortunately the instinct of uncivilised man
is to destroy。 I shall say more upon this important subject when we
arrive among the last remaining forests of the Troodos mountains。
We rode onwards； always through the same wilderness of old tree…stems
hacked； and young trees that would be hacked； at length we saw on a
cleared space in the distance what I imagined to be a long brown rock
lying upon the surface； but upon riding out of the path to examine this
object