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of Venus after her appearance upon this shore may be left to the
imagination； why she is represented by the exceedingly plain women of
modern Cyprus surpasses the imagination。 Perhaps the immorality
connected with the ancient worship of the goddess of beauty and of love
invoked a curse upon the descendants in the shape of 〃baggy trousers；
high boots； and ugliness：〃 to which dirt has been a painful addition。
CHAPTER IX。
FROM BAFFO TO LIMASOL。
We left Ktima on 23rd April for Limasol。 The weather was now perfect for
out…door life； the thermometer 52 degrees at 7 A。M。； and 70 degrees at 3
P。M。 The route was agreeable； the crops were well irrigated by numerous
streams led from the mountains； and the country generally was green and
well wooded。 After a march of fourteen miles； during which we had passed
the ruins of several ancient aqueducts； we arrived at a running stream
which issued from a narrow valley between cliffs and hills and emptied
itself upon the sea…beach。 A number of tamarisks formed a jungle near
the mouth； and the banks were a bright rose…colour； owing to the full
bloom of thickets of oleanders。 This was a charming halting…place； and
as the beach was strewn with dry timber that had been brought down from
the mountains during the season when the stream was powerful； we should
have a good supply of fuel in addition to fresh water。 The route had
been along the flat parallel with the sea from Ktima； and I noticed a
wonderful change in the pace of the camels； as I had summoned Iiani when
at the capital of the district before the Cadi at the Konak； and the
chief commissioner had added his voice to the threat and monitions he
had received concerning his future conduct regarding early starting and
attention to my orders。 Captain Wauchope had kindly furnished me with an
excellent Turkish zaphtieh； or mounted policeman； whose red jacket and
fez commanded a certain respect。 This man was mounted upon a strong；
well…built； and exceedingly active pony； or small horse； which led the
way； as our new guide thoroughly knew the country。
While all hands were pitching the tent upon a sandy turf within a few
yards of the sea…beach I took the dogs for a ramble up the
thickly…wooded valley along the banks of the stream； as I had observed a
number of blue…rock pigeons among the white cliffs； and I thought I
might perhaps find a hare for the evening stew。 I killed some pigeons；
but did not move a hare； although the dogs worked through most promising
ground； where green crops upon the flat bottom surrounded by thick
coverts afford both food and shelter。 We were returning to camp when I
suddenly heard Merry and Shot barking savagely in some thick bushes upon
the steep bank of the stream。 At first I thought they had found a
hedgehog； which was always Shot's amusement； as he constantly brought
them into camp after he had managed to obtain a hold of their prickly
bodies。 The barking continued； and as I could not penetrate the bush； I
called the dogs off。 They joined me almost immediately； looking rather
scared。 It now occurred to me that they might have found a snake； as a
few days ago I had heard Merry barking in a similar manner； and upon
joining him I had discovered a snake coiled up with head erect in an
attitude of defence。 I had killed the snake and scolded the dog； as I
feared he would come to an untimely end； should he commence snake…
hunting in so prolific a field as Cyprus。 Since that time all the dogs
hunted the countless lizards which ran across the path during the march；
and Shot was most determined in his endeavours to scratch them out of
their holes。
I had called my three dogs together； and we were walking across a field
of green wheat； when I suddenly missed Shot； and he was discovered lying
down about fifty paces in our rear。 Merry； who usually was pluck and
energy itself； was following at my heels and looking stupid and subdued。
This dog was indomitable； and his fault was wildness at the commencement
of the day； I could not now induce him to hunt； and his eyes had a
peculiar expression； as though his system had suffered some severe
shock。 Shot came slowly when I called him； but he walked with
difficulty； and his jaws were swollen。 I now felt sure that the dogs
were bitten by a snake； which they had been baying when I heard them in
the bush about five minutes before。 We were very near the camp； and the
dog crept home slowly at my heels。 Upon examination there was no doubt
of the cause； Shot had wounds of a snake's fangs upon his lip； under the
eye； and upon one ear； he must have been the first bitten； as he had
evidently received the greatest discharge of poison。 Merry was bitten in
the mouth and in one ear； both of which were already swollen； but not to
the same degree as Shot； who； within an hour； had a head as large as a
small calf's； and his eyes were completely closed。 I had not the
slightest hope of his recovery； as his throat had swollen to an enormous
size； which threatened suffocation。 I could do nothing for the poor dogs
but oil their mouths； although knew that the poison would assuredly
spread throughout the system。 The dogs had been bitten at about 3。40
P。M。 At 8 P。M。 （our dinner…hour） Shot was a shapeless mass； and his
limbs were stiff； the skin of his throat and fore…part of his body
beneath his curly white and liver…coloured hair was perfectly black； his
jowl； which now hung three inches below his jaws； was also inky black；
as were his swollen tongue and palate。 Merry's head and throat were
swollen badly； and he lay by the blazing fire of logs half stupefied and
devoid of observation。
On the following morning Shot was evidently dying； he did not appear to
suffer pain； but was in a state of coma and swelled to such a degree
that he resembled the skin of an animal that had been badly stuffed with
hay。 Merry was worse than on the preceding night； and lay in a state of
stupor。 I carried him to the sea and dipped him several times beneath
the water； this appeared slightly to revive him； and he was placed in a
large saddle…bag to be carried on a mule for the day's march。 Shot had
been quite unconscious； and when the men prepared an animal to carry
him； it was found that he was already dead。 This was a little after 8
A。M。； and he had been bitten at about 3。40 P。 M。： about 16 and a half
hours had elapsed。 My men dug a grave and buried the poor animal； who
had been a faithful dog and an excellent retriever。 From Merry's
appearance I expected that we should have to attend to his remains in
the same manner before the evening。
Snakes are very numerous in Cyprus； but I cannot believe in any great
danger if these generally hated creatures should be avoided。 If dogs
will insist upon hunting and attacking them； they must be bitten as a
natural consequence； in this fatal case there can be no doubt that the
dog Shot was the first to discover and attack the snake； and Merry； upon
hearing him bark； joined in the fight。 It is quite unnatural for any of
the serpent tribe to attack； except for the purpose of devouring their
natural prey。 As a general rule； the food of snakes consists of rats；
mice； frogs； or toads； beetle