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thirst…increasing qualities of beer。 If Cyprus is at some future time to
become a British colony； the wine trade will be the principal source of
industry； and should be developed by the government with every possible
encouragement to the proprietors of vineyards。 An improved quality of
wine will not necessitate an additional price； but； on the contrary； the
wine…growing resources of the island are so irrepressible that they have
withstood the oppression of the past and present； and when relieved of
this incubus； not only should the quality improve； but the price should
be reduced。 In this case； should the Cyprian produce be favoured by a
nominal import duty in England； the wine will be within the reach of the
poorer classes； and may ameliorate that crying evil of our country；
〃intoxication；〃 by weaning the spirit…drinker to a more wholesome
drink。
It must never be supposed by the most sanguine that Cyprian wines will
be fashionable among the upper classes in England。 I do not think they
will ever surpass Marsala or many of the Cape wines。 English people； as
a rule； object to cheap wines； or at least they are reserved concerning
the price； should cheap wine be upon their table。 It is a dangerous
thing to mention the cost of any wine； even to your nearest friend；
although he might have enjoyed it when he thought it must have cost you
72 shillings the dozen； he will detect some unpleasant peculiarity when
you may foolishly have confided to him that it only cost you 36
shillings； or； worse still； 24 shillings。 He will possibly suggest to
you on the following morning that 〃something disagreed with him during
the night； but he does NOT think it was the 24 shilling wine。〃 Here is
the fault of HALF…EDUCATED palates； they expect too much； and are guided
by fancies。 The same person might be beguiled into the belief that the
24 shilling wine was very superior if he had been deceived by an
assurance that it cost 72 shillings。 There are really very few amateurs
who could value unknown wines by the test of their own palates； but the
chilly climate of England is adverse to light wines； and necessitates a
full body； with considerable strength。
The sherries are always fortified by an addition of between 30 to 40 per
cent。 of alcohol before they are shipped to England； without which they
would be unsaleable； as to our taste； they would be empty and vapid。 We
must therefore make a considerable allowance when judging of Cyprus
wines in their present extremely rude and uncultivated position。
Nothing is added； and the following concise description will account for
their disagreeable peculiarities。
There are no roads in Cyprus in the mountainous wine…producing
districts； therefore all agricultural products must be conveyed upon the
backs of mules up and down the steepest and most dangerous rocky tracks；
apparently more fitted for goats than other animals。 A mule will travel
in this rough country with a load of 250 lbs。 This serious difficulty of
transport will account for the rude and ancient method of conveying wine
in goat…skins。 〃No man will put new wine into old bottles；〃 referred to
this system of employing skins instead of casks； or other receptacles
that could be cleaned and rendered tasteless。 The goat…skin would
quickly rot； unless it was prepared by a species of tar； thus not only
is the naturally unpleasant flavour of the skin imparted to the wine；
but the mixture of tar renders it completely abominable to any palate
that has not been educated to receive it。 Let any person conceive the
result of pouring ten or twelve gallons of Chateau Lafitte into an old
and dirty goat…skin thoroughly impregnated with tar； and carrying this
burden upon one side of a mule； balanced by a similar skin on the other
side filled with the choicest Johannisberger。 This load； worth at least
70 or 80 pounds at starting； would travel for two days exposed to a
broiling sun； and would lie for several days before it would be turned
into the vat of the merchant at Limasol。 By that time； according to
civilised taste； it would be perfectly valueless and undrinkable； if the
best wines in the world can be thus destroyed by a savage means of
transport； what must the effect be upon such inferior qualities as the
crude produce of Cyprus？ Common sense will suggest that the first step
towards improvement will be the completion of roads throughout the wine
districts； that will enable the two…wheeled native carts to convey the
wine in barrels direct from the growers to the merchants' stores at
Limasol。
We will now commence at the beginning； 〃the cultivation of the vine；〃
and trace its progress until the wine is ready for the consumer。
As I have already described； the commanderia and the black wines are
produced by the two different qualities of soils； but there is no
difference in the altitudes。 The new British road from Limasol to
Platraes； thirty miles； cuts directly through the principal vine
districts of the country。 From the deep valley and roaring torrent； up
to the mountain…tops exceeding 4000 feet above the sea…level； the
country is green with vineyards in the middle or latter end of May； not
a yard of available land is lost。 When the shoots are about three feet
long and have shown the embryo bunches； a number of men enter the
vineyard with switches and knock off the tender ends of the runners；
which in a gentler method of cultivation would be picked off with the
finger and thumb…nail。 Sometimes goats are turned in to nibble off the
shoots in order to save labour； and at the same time to feed the
animals； they of course damage the vines； but the Cypriote thinks the
system pays。 The young vines are never staked and tied as in Europe； but
are allowed to take their chance； and the heavy bunches in many
instances rest upon the dusty ground。
There is seldom rain after May； but a few showers are favourable at this
particular season when the young bunches are in blossom。 In the best
vineyards attention is given to clearing away the weeds after rain； but
usually the vines are left to nature after the grapes have formed； as
the hot sun and drying wind are sufficient to keep down adverse
vegetation。
The grapes ripen towards the middle or end of August。 The commanderia
grapes are collected and spread upon the flat mud…plastered roofs of the
native houses； and are exposed for several days； until they show
symptoms of shrivelling in the skin； and the stalks have partially
dried： they are then pressed。 By this time many of the grapes that have
been bruised by this rough treatment have fermented； and the dust and
dirt of the house…top； together with flies and other insects； have
adhered to the impure heap。 It has been imagined by some travellers that
the grapes are purposely dried before pressing； on the other hand； I
have been assured by the inhabitants that their only reason for heaping
and exposing their crop upon the house…tops is the danger of leaving it
to ripen in the vineyard。 None of the plots are fenced； and before the
grapes are sufficiently ripe for pressing they are stolen in large
quantities； or destroyed by cattle； goats； mules； and every stray animal
that