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very mild； meek woman； yellow with the traces of fever and ague； … a scourge which； as might be ex… pected in a town whose name denotes 〃dead waters；〃 enters freely at the nine gates。 The Tour de Con… stance is of extraordinary girth and solidity； divided into three superposed circular chambers； with very fine vaults； which are lighted by embrasures of prodigious depth； converging to windows little larger than loop… holes。 The place served for years as a prison to many of the Protestants of the south whom the revocation of the Edict of Nantes had exposed to atrocious penalties； and the annals of these dreadful chambers during the first half of the last century were written in tears and blood。 Some of the recorded cases of long confinement there make one marvel afresh at what man has inflicted and endured。 In a country in which a policy of extermination was to be put into practice this horrible tower was an obvious resource。 From the battlements at the top； which is surmounted by an old disused light…house； you see the little com… pact rectangular town； which looks hardly bigger than a garden…patch； mapped out beneath you； and follow the plain configuration of its defences。 You take possession of it； and you feel that you will remember it always。
XXVIII。
After this I was free to look about me at Nimes； and I did so with such attention as the place appeared to require。 At the risk of seeming too easily and too frequently disappointed； I will say that it required rather less than I had been prepared to give。 It is a town of three or four fine features； rather than a town with； as I may say； a general figure。 In general； Nimes is poor； its only treasures are its Roman re… mains； which are of the first order。 The new French fashions prevail in many of its streets； the old houses are paltry； and the good houses are new； while beside my hotel rose a big spick…and…span church； which had the oddest air of having been intended for Brooklyn or Cleveland。 It is true that this church looked out on a square completely French； … a square of a fine modern disposition； flanked on one side by a classical _palais de justice_ embellished with trees and parapets； and occupied in the centre with a group of allegorical statues； such as one encounters only in the cities of France； the chief of these being a colossal figure by Pradier； representing Nimes。 An English； an American； town which should have such a monu… ment； such a square； as this； would be a place of great pretensions； but like so many little _villes de province_ in the country of which I write； Nimes is easily ornamental。 What nobler ornament can there be than the Roman baths at the foot of Mont Cavalier； and the delightful old garden that surrounds them？ All that quarter of Nimes has every reason to be proud of itself； it has been revealed to the world at large by copious photography。 A clear； abundant stream gushes from the foot of a high hill （covered with trees and laid out in paths）； and is distributed into basins which sufficiently refer themselves to the period that gave them birth； … the period that has left its stamp on that pompous Peyrou which we ad… mired at Montpellier。 Here are the same terraces and steps and balustrades； and a system of water…works less impressive； perhaps； but very ingenious and charm… ing。 The whole place is a mixture of old Rome and of the French eighteenth century； for the remains of the antique baths are in a measure incorporated in the modern fountains。 In a corner of this umbrageous precinct stands a small Roman ruin； which is known as a temple of Diana； but was more apparently a _nymphaeum_； and appears to have had a graceful con… nection with the adjacent baths。 I learn from Murray that this little temple； of the period of Augustus； 〃was reduced to its present state of ruin in 1577；〃 the moment at which the townspeople； threatened with a siege by the troops of the crown； partly demolished it； lest it should serve as a cover to the enemy。 The remains are very fragmentary； but they serve to show that the place was lovely。 I spent half an hour in it on a perfect Sunday morning （it is en… closed by a high _grille_； carefully tended； and has a warden of its own）； and with the help of my imagina… tion tried to reconstruct a little the aspect of things in the Gallo…Roman days。 I do wrong； perhaps； to say that 1 _tried_； from a flight so deliberate I should have shrunk。 But there was a certain contagion of antiquity in the air； and among the ruins of baths and temples； in the very spot where the aqueduct that crosses the Gardon in the wondrous manner I had seen discharged itself； the picture of a splendid paganism seemed vaguely to glow。 Roman baths； … Roman baths； those words alone were a scene。 Every… thing was changed： I was strolling in a _jardin francais_； the bosky slope of the Mont Cavalier （a very modest mountain）； hanging over the place； is crowned with a shapeless tower； which is as likely to be of mediaeval as of antique origin； and yet； as I leaned on the parapet of one of the fountains； where a flight of curved steps （a hemicycle； as the French say） descended into a basin full of dark； cool recesses； where the slabs of the Roman foundations gleam through the clear green water； … as in this attitude I surrendered myself to contemplation and reverie； it seemed to me that I touched for a moment the ancient world。 Such mo… ments are illuminating； and the light of this one mingles； in my memory； with the dusky greenness of the Jardin de la Fontaine。
The fountain proper … the source of all these dis… tributed waters … is the prettiest thing in the world； a reduced copy of Vaucluse。 It gushes up at the foot of the Mont Cavalier； at a point where that eminence rises with a certain cliff…like effect； and； like other springs in the same circumstances； appears to issue from the rock with a sort of quivering stillness。 I trudged up the Mont Cavalier； … it is a matter of five minutes； … and having committed this cockneyism en… hanced it presently by another。 I ascended the stupid Tour Magne； the mysterious structure I mentioned a moment ago。 The only feature of this dateless tube； except the inevitable collection of photographs to which you are introduced by the door…keeper； is the view you enjoy from its summit。 This view is； of course； remarkably fine； but I am ashamed to say I have not the smallest recollection of it； for while I looked into the brilliant spaces of the air I seemed still to see only what I saw in the depths of the Roman baths； … the image； disastrously confused and vague； of a vanished world。 This world； however； has left at Nimes a far more considerable memento than a few old stones covered with water…moss。 The Roman arena is the rival of those of Verona and of Arles； at a respectful distance it emulates the Colosseum。 It is a small Colosseum； if I may be allowed the expression； and is in a much better preservation than the great circus at Rome。 This is especially true of the external walls； with their arches； pillars； cornices。 I must add that one should not speak of preservation； in regard to the arena at Nimes； without speaking also of repair。 After the great ruin ceased to be despoiled；