按键盘上方向键 ← 或 → 可快速上下翻页，按键盘上的 Enter 键可回到本书目录页，按键盘上方向键 ↑ 可回到本页顶部！
————未阅读完？加入书签已便下次继续阅读！
e I cared was manifest from my inaction on former oc… casions。 I had a prejudice against Vancluse； against Petrarch； even against the incomparable Laura。 I was sure that the place was cockneyfied and threadbare； and I had never been able to take an interest in the poet and the lady。 I was sure that I had known many women as charming and as handsome as she； about whom much less noise had been made； and I was convinced that her singer was factitious and literary； and that there are half a dozen stanzas in Wordsworth that speak more to the soul than the whole collection of his _fioriture_。 This was the crude state of mind in which I determined to go； at any risk； to Vaucluse。 Now that I think it over； I seem to remember that I had hoped； after all； that the submersion of the roads would forbid it。 Since morning the clouds had gathered again； and by noon they were so heavy that there was every prospect of a torrent。 It appeared absurd to choose such a time as this to visit a fountain … a fountain which； would be indistinguishable in the general cataract。 Nevertheless I took a vow that if at noon the rain should not have begun to descend upon Avignon I would repair to the head…spring of the Sorgues。 When the critical moment arrived； the clouds were hanging over Avignon like distended water…bags； which only needed a prick to empty themselves。 The prick was not given； however； all nature was too much occupied in following the aberration of the Rhone to think of playing tricks elsewhere。 Accordingly； I started for the station in a spirit which； for a tourist who sometimes had prided himself on his unfailing supply of sentiment； was shockingly perfunctory。
〃For tasks in hours of insight willed May be in hours of gloom fulfilled。〃
I remembered these lines of Matthew Arnold （written； apparently； in an hour of gloom）； and carried out the idea； as I went； by hoping that with the return of in… sight I should be glad to have seen Vaucluse。 Light has descended upon me since then； and I declare that the excursion is in every way to be recommended。 The place makes a great impression； quite apart from Petrarch and Laura。
There was no rain； there was only； all the after… noon； a mild； moist wind； and a sky magnificently black； which made a _repoussoir_ for the paler cliffs of the fountain。 The road； by train； crosses a flat； ex… pressionless country； toward the range of arid hills which lie to the east of Avignon； and which spring （says Murray） from the mass of the Mont…Ventoux。 At Isle…sur…Sorgues； at the end of about an hour； the fore… ground becomes much more animated and the distance much more （or perhaps I should say much less） actual。 I descended from the train； and ascended to the top of an omnibus which was to convey me into the re… cesses of the hills。 It had not been among my pre… visions that I should be indebted to a vehicle of that kind for an opportunity to commune with the spirit of Petrarch； and I had to borrow what consolation I could from the fact that at least I had the omnibus to myself。 I was the only passenger； every one else was at Avignon； watching the Rhone。 I lost no time in perceiving that I could not have come to Vaucluse at a better moment。 The Sorgues was almost as full as the Rhone； and of a color much more romantic。 Rush… ing along its narrowed channel under an avenue of fine _platanes_ （it is confined between solid little embank… ments of stone）； with the good…wives of the village； on the brink； washing their linen in its contemptuous flood； it gave promise of high entertainment further on。
The drive to Vaucluse is of about three quarters of an hour； and though the river； as I say； was promis… ing； the big pale hills； as the road winds into them； did not look as if their slopes of stone and shrub were a nestling…place for superior scenery。 It is a part of the merit of Vaucluse； indeed； that it is as much as possible a surprise。 The place has a right to its name； for the valley appears impenetrable until you get fairly into it。 One perverse twist follows another； until the omnibus suddenly deposits you in front of the 〃cabinet〃 of Petrarch。 After that you have only to walk along the left bank of the river。 The cabinet of Petrarch is to…day a hideous little _cafe_； bedizened； like a sign… board； with extracts from the ingenious 〃Rime。〃 The poet and his lady are； of course； the stock in trade of the little village； which has had for several generations the privilege of attracting young couples engaged in their wedding…tour； and other votaries of the tender passion。 The place has long been familiar； on festal Sundays； to the swains of Avignon and their attendant nymphs。 The little fish of the Sorgues are much esteemed； and； eaten on the spot； they constitute； for the children of the once Papal city； the classic sub… urban dinner。 Vaucluse has been turned to account； however； not only by sentiment； but by industry； the banks of the stream being disfigured by a pair of hideous mills for the manufacture of paper and of wool。 In an enterprising and economical age the water…power of the Sorgues was too obvious a motive； and I must say that； as the torrent rushed past them； the wheels of the dirty little factories appeared to turn merrily enough。 The footpath on the left bank； of which I just spoke； carries one； fortunately； quite out of sight of them； and out of sound as well； inasmuch as on the day of my visit the stream itself； which was in tremendous force； tended more and more； as one approached the fountain； to fill the valley with its own echoes。 Its color was magnificent； and the whole spectacle more like a corner of Switzerland than a nook in Provence。 The protrusions of the mountain shut it in； and you penetrate to the bottom of the re… cess which they form。 The Sorgues rushes and rushes； it is almost like Niagara after the jump of the cataract。 There are dreadful little booths beside the path； for the sale of photographs and _immortelles_； … I don't know what one is to do with the immortelles； … where you are offered a brush dipped in tar to write your name withal on the rocks。 Thousands of vulgar persons； of both sexes； and exclusively； it appeared； of the French nationality； had availed themselves of this implement； for every square inch of accessible stone was scored over with some human appellation。 It is not only we in America； therefore； who besmirch our scenery； the practice exists； in a more organized form （like every… thing else in France）； in the country of good taste。 You leave the little booths and stalls behind； but the bescribbled crag； bristling with human vanity； keeps you company even when you stand face to face with the fountain。 This happens when you find yourself at the foot of the enormous straight cliff out of which the river gushes。 It rears itself to an extraordinary height； … a huge forehead of bare stone； … looking as if it were the half of a tremendous mound； split open by volcanic action。 The little valley； seeing it there； at a bend； stops suddenly； and receives in its arms the magical spring。 I call it magical on account of the mysterious manner in which it comes into the world； with the huge shoulder of the mountain rising over it； as