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reposing from the dance and revel of the evening； others； who had left
their villages after work on the preceding day； having trudged on foot
the greater part of the night； were taking a sound sleep to freshen
themselves for the festivities of the day。 Numbers from the mountains；
and the remote villages of the plain； who had set out in the night；
continued to arrive with their wives and children。 All were in high
spirits； greeting each other and exchanging jokes and pleasantries。
The gay tumult thickened as the day advanced。 Now came pouring in at
the city gates； and parading through the streets； the deputations from
the various villages； destined to swell the grand procession。 These
village deputations were headed by their priests； bearing their
respective crosses and banners； and images of the blessed Virgin and
of patron saints； all which were matters of great rivalship and
jealousy among the peasantry。 It was like the chivalrous gatherings of
ancient days； when each town and village sent its chiefs； and
warriors； and standards； to defend the capital； or grace its
festivities。
At length all these various detachments congregated into one grand
pageant； which slowly paraded round the Vivarrambla； and through the
principal streets； where every window and balcony was hung with
tapestry。 In this procession were all the religious orders； the
civil and military authorities； and the chief people of the parishes
and villages： every church and convent had contributed its banners；
its images； its relics； and poured forth its wealth for the
occasion。 In the centre of the procession walked the archbishop； under
a damask canopy； and surrounded by inferior dignitaries and their
dependants。 The whole moved to the swell and cadence of numerous bands
of music； and； passing through the midst of a countless yet silent
multitude； proceeded onward to the cathedral。
I could not but be struck with the changes of times and customs；
as I saw this monkish pageant passing through the Vivarrambla； the
ancient seat of Moslem pomp and chivalry。 The contrast was indeed
forced upon the mind by the decorations of the square。 The whole front
of the wooden gallery erected for the procession； extending several
hundred feet； was faced with canvas； on which some humble though
patriotic artist had painted； by contract； a series of the principal
scenes and exploits of the Conquest； as recorded in chronicle and
romance。 It is thus the romantic legends of Granada mingle
themselves with every thing； and are kept fresh in the public mind。
As we wended our way back to the Alhambra； Mateo was in high glee
and garrulous vein。 〃Ah； senor；〃 exclaimed he； 〃there is no place in
all the world like Granada for grand ceremonies （funciones grandes）； a
man need spend nothing on pleasure here； it is all furnished him
gratis。 Pero； el dia de la Toma！ ah； senor！ el dia de la Toma！〃 〃But
the day of the Taking！ ah； senor； the day of the Taking〃… that was the
great day which crowned Mateo's notions of perfect felicity。 The Dia
de la Toma； I found； was the anniversary of the capture or taking
possession of Granada； by the army of Ferdinand and Isabella。
On that day； according to Mateo； the whole city is abandoned to
revelry。 The great alarm bell on the watchtower of the Alhambra （la
Torre de la vela）； sends forth its clanging peals from morn till
night； the sound pervades the whole Vega； and echoes along the
mountains； summoning the peasantry from far and near to the
festivities of the metropolis。 〃Happy the damsel；〃 says Mateo； 〃who
can get a chance to ring that bell； it is a charm to insure a
husband within the year。〃
Throughout the day the Alhambra is thrown open to the public。 Its
halls and courts； where the Moorish monarchs once held sway； resound
with the guitar and castanet； and gay groups； in the fanciful
dresses of Andalusia； perform their traditional dances inherited
from the Moors。
A grand procession； emblematic of the taking possession of the city；
moves through the principal streets。 The banner of Ferdinand and
Isabella； that previous relic of the Conquest； is brought forth from
its depository； and borne in triumph by the Alferez mayor； or grand
standard…bearer。 The portable camp…altar； carried about with the
sovereigns in all their campaigns； is transported into the chapel
royal of the cathedral； and placed before their sepulchre； where their
effigies lie in monumental marble。 High mass is then performed in
memory of the Conquest； and at a certain part of the ceremony the
Alferez mayor puts on his hat； and waves the standard above the tomb
of the conquerors。
A more whimsical memorial of the Conquest is exhibited in the
evening at the theatre。 A popular drama is performed； entitled AVE
MARIA； turning on a famous achievement of Hernando del Pulgar；
surnamed 〃el de las Hazanas〃 （he of the exploits）； a madcap warrior；
the favorite hero of the populace of Granada。 During the time of the
siege； the young Moorish and Spanish cavaliers vied with each other in
extravagant bravadoes。 On one occasion this Hernando del Pulgar； at
the head of a handful of followers； made a dash into Granada in the
dead of the night； nailed the inscription of AVE MARIA with his dagger
to the gate of the principal mosque； a token of having consecrated
it to the Virgin； and effected his retreat in safety。
While the Moorish cavaliers admired this daring exploit； they felt
bound to resent it。 On the following day； therefore； Tarfe； one of the
stoutest among them； paraded in front of the Christian army；
dragging the tablet bearing the sacred inscription AVE MARIA； at his
horse's tail。 The cause of the Virgin was eagerly vindicated by
Garcilaso de la Vega； who slew the Moor in single combat； and elevated
the tablet in devotion and triumph at the end of his lance。
The drama founded on this exploit is prodigiously popular with the
common people。 Although it has been acted time out of mind； it never
fails to draw crowds； who become completely lost in the delusions of
the scene。 When their favorite Pulgar strides about with many a mouthy
speech； in the very midst of the Moorish capital； he is cheered with
enthusiastic bravos； and when he nails the tablet to the door of the
mosque； the theatre absolutely shakes with the thunders of applause。
On the other hand； the unlucky actors who figure in the part of the
Moors； have to bear the brunt of popular indignation； which at times
equals that of the Hero of La Mancha； at the puppet…show of Gines de
Passamonte； for； when the infidel Tarfe plucks down the tablet to
tie it to his horse's tail； some of the audience rise in fury； and are
ready to jump upon the stage to revenge this insult to the Virgin。
By the way； the actual lineal descendant of Hernando del Pulgar
was the Marquis de Salar。 As the legitimate representative of that
madcap hero； and in commemoration and reward of this hero's exploit；
above mentioned； he inherited the right to en