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idleness； and I hear that in one village of Savaii a law has been
passed forbidding gifts under the penalty of a sharp fine。
Under this economic regimen； the unpopularity of taxes； which
strike all at the same time； which expose the industrious to a
perfect siege of mendicancy； and the lazy to be actually condemned
to a day's labour； may be imagined without words。 It is more
important to note the concurrent relaxation of all sense of
property。 From applying for help to kinsmen who are scarce
permitted to refuse； it is but a step to taking from them （in the
dictionary phrase） 〃without permission〃； from that to theft at
large is but a hair's…breadth。
CHAPTER II … THE ELEMENTS OF DISCORD： FOREIGN
THE huge majority of Samoans； like other God…fearing folk in other
countries； are perfectly content with their own manners。 And upon
one condition； it is plain they might enjoy themselves far beyond
the average of man。 Seated in islands very rich in food； the
idleness of the many idle would scarce matter； and the provinces
might continue to bestow their names among rival pretenders； and
fall into war and enjoy that a while； and drop into peace and enjoy
that； in a manner highly to be envied。 But the condition … that
they should be let alone … is now no longer possible。 More than a
hundred years ago； and following closely on the heels of Cook； an
irregular invasion of adventurers began to swarm about the isles of
the Pacific。 The seven sleepers of Polynesia stand； still but half
aroused； in the midst of the century of competition。 And the
island races； comparable to a shopful of crockery launched upon the
stream of time； now fall to make their desperate voyage among pots
of brass and adamant。
Apia； the port and mart； is the seat of the political sickness of
Samoa。 At the foot of a peaked； woody mountain； the coast makes a
deep indent； roughly semicircular。 In front the barrier reef is
broken by the fresh water of the streams； if the swell be from the
north； it enters almost without diminution； and the war…ships roll
dizzily at their moorings； and along the fringing coral which
follows the configuration of the beach； the surf breaks with a
continuous uproar。 In wild weather； as the world knows； the roads
are untenable。 Along the whole shore； which is everywhere green
and level and overlooked by inland mountain…tops； the town lies
drawn out in strings and clusters。 The western horn is Mulinuu；
the eastern； Matautu； and from one to the other of these extremes；
I ask the reader to walk。 He will find more of the history of
Samoa spread before his eyes in that excursion； than has yet been
collected in the blue…books or the white…books of the world。
Mulinuu （where the walk is to begin） is a flat； wind…swept
promontory； planted with palms； backed against a swamp of
mangroves； and occupied by a rather miserable village。 The reader
is informed that this is the proper residence of the Samoan kings；
he will be the more surprised to observe a board set up； and to
read that this historic village is the property of the German firm。
But these boards； which are among the commonest features of the
landscape； may be rather taken to imply that the claim has been
disputed。 A little farther east he skirts the stores； offices； and
barracks of the firm itself。 Thence he will pass through Matafele；
the one really town…like portion of this long string of villages；
by German bars and stores and the German consulate； and reach the
Catholic mission and cathedral standing by the mouth of a small
river。 The bridge which crosses here （bridge of Mulivai） is a
frontier； behind is Matafele； beyond； Apia proper； behind； Germans
are supreme； beyond； with but few exceptions； all is Anglo…Saxon。
Here the reader will go forward past the stores of Mr。 Moors
（American） and Messrs。 MacArthur （English）； past the English
mission； the office of the English newspaper； the English church；
and the old American consulate； till he reaches the mouth of a
larger river； the Vaisingano。 Beyond； in Matautu； his way takes
him in the shade of many trees and by scattered dwellings； and
presently brings him beside a great range of offices； the place and
the monument of a German who fought the German firm during his
life。 His house （now he is dead） remains pointed like a discharged
cannon at the citadel of his old enemies。 Fitly enough； it is at
present leased and occupied by Englishmen。 A little farther； and
the reader gains the eastern flanking angle of the bay； where
stands the pilot…house and signal…post； and whence he can see； on
the line of the main coast of the island； the British and the new
American consulates。
The course of his walk will have been enlivened by a considerable
to and fro of pleasure and business。 He will have encountered many
varieties of whites； … sailors； merchants； clerks； priests；
Protestant missionaries in their pith helmets； and the nondescript
hangers…on of any island beach。 And the sailors are sometimes in
considerable force； but not the residents。 He will think at times
there are more signboards than men to own them。 It may chance it
is a full day in the harbour； he will then have seen all manner of
ships； from men…of…war and deep…sea packets to the labour vessels
of the German firm and the cockboat island schooner； and if he be
of an arithmetical turn； he may calculate that there are more
whites afloat in Apia bay than whites ashore in the whole
Archipelago。 On the other hand； he will have encountered all ranks
of natives； chiefs and pastors in their scrupulous white clothes；
perhaps the king himself； attended by guards in uniform； smiling
policemen with their pewter stars； girls； women； crowds of cheerful
children。 And he will have asked himself with some surprise where
these reside。 Here and there； in the back yards of European
establishments； he may have had a glimpse of a native house elbowed
in a corner； but since he left Mulinuu； none on the beach where
islanders prefer to live； scarce one on the line of street。 The
handful of whites have everything； the natives walk in a foreign
town。 A year ago； on a knoll behind a bar…room； he might have
observed a native house guarded by sentries and flown over by the
standard of Samoa。 He would then have been told it was the seat of
government； driven （as I have to relate） over the Mulivai and from
beyond the German town into the Anglo…Saxon。 To…day； he will learn
it has been carted back again to its old quarters。 And he will
think it significant that the king of the islands should be thus
shuttled to and fro in his chief city at the nod of aliens。 And
then he will observe a feature more significant still： a house
with some concourse of affairs； policemen and idlers hanging by； a
man at a bank…counter overhauling manifests； perhaps a trial