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weeded green； the picketed horses； the troops of pigs； the round or
oval native dwellings。 Of these there are a surprising number；
very fine of their sort： yet more are in the building； and in the
midst a tall house of assembly； by far the greatest Samoan
structure now in these islands； stands about half finished and
already makes a figure in the landscape。 No bustle is to be
observed； but the work accomplished testifies to a still activity。
The centre…piece of all is the high chief himself； Malietoa…
Tuiatua…Tuiaana Mataafa； king … or not king … or king…claimant … of
Samoa。 All goes to him； all comes from him。 Native deputations
bring him gifts and are feasted in return。 White travellers； to
their indescribable irritation； are （on his approach） waved from
his path by his armed guards。 He summons his dancers by the note
of a bugle。 He sits nightly at home before a semicircle of
talking…men from many quarters of the islands； delivering and
hearing those ornate and elegant orations in which the Samoan heart
delights。 About himself and all his surroundings there breathes a
striking sense of order； tranquillity； and native plenty。 He is of
a tall and powerful person； sixty years of age； white…haired and
with a white moustache； his eyes bright and quiet； his jaw
perceptibly underhung； which gives him something of the expression
of a benevolent mastiff； his manners dignified and a thought
insinuating； with an air of a Catholic prelate。 He was never
married； and a natural daughter attends upon his guests。 Long
since he made a vow of chastity； … 〃to live as our Lord lived on
this earth〃 and Polynesians report with bated breath that he has
kept it。 On all such points； true to his Catholic training； he is
inclined to be even rigid。 Lauati； the pivot of Savaii； has
recently repudiated his wife and taken a fairer； and when I was
last in Malie； Mataafa （with a strange superiority to his own
interests） had but just despatched a reprimand。 In his immediate
circle； in spite of the smoothness of his ways； he is said to be
more respected than beloved； and his influence is the child rather
of authority than popularity。 No Samoan grandee now living need
have attempted that which he has accomplished during the last
twelve months with unimpaired prestige； not only to withhold his
followers from war； but to send them to be judged in the camp of
their enemies on Mulinuu。 And it is a matter of debate whether
such a triumph of authority were ever possible before。 Speaking
for myself； I have visited and dwelt in almost every seat of the
Polynesian race； and have met but one man who gave me a stronger
impression of character and parts。
About the situation； Mataafa expresses himself with unshaken peace。
To the chief justice he refers with some bitterness； to Laupepa；
with a smile； as 〃my poor brother。〃 For himself； he stands upon
the treaty； and expects sooner or later an election in which he
shall be raised to the chief power。 In the meanwhile； or for an
alternative； he would willingly embrace a compromise with Laupepa；
to which he would probably add one condition； that the joint
government should remain seated at Malie； a sensible but not
inconvenient distance from white intrigues and white officials。
One circumstance in my last interview particularly pleased me。 The
king's chief scribe； Esela； is an old employe under Tamasese； and
the talk ran some while upon the character of Brandeis。 Loyalty in
this world is after all not thrown away； Brandeis was guilty； in
Samoan eyes； of many irritating errors； but he stood true to
Tamasese； in the course of time a sense of this virtue and of his
general uprightness has obliterated the memory of his mistakes； and
it would have done his heart good if he could have heard his old
scribe and his old adversary join in praising him。 〃Yes；〃
concluded Mataafa； 〃I wish we had Planteisa back again。〃 A QUELQUE
CHOSE MALHEUR EST BON。 So strong is the impression produced by the
defects of Cedarcrantz and Baron Senfft； that I believe Mataafa far
from singular in this opinion； and that the return of the upright
Brandeis might be even welcome to many。
I must add a last touch to the picture of Malie and the pretender's
life。 About four in the morning； the visitor in his house will be
awakened by the note of a pipe； blown without； very softly and to a
soothing melody。 This is Mataafa's private luxury to lead on
pleasant dreams。 We have a bird here in Samoa that about the same
hour of darkness sings in the bush。 The father of Mataafa； while
he lived； was a great friend and protector to all living creatures；
and passed under the by…name of THE KING OF BIRDS。 It may be it
was among the woodland clients of the sire that the son acquired
his fancy for this morning music。
I have now sought to render without extenuation the impressions
received： of dignity； plenty； and peace at Malie； of bankruptcy
and distraction at Mulinuu。 And I wish I might here bring to an
end ungrateful labours。 But I am sensible that there remain two
points on which it would be improper to be silent。 I should be
blamed if I did not indicate a practical conclusion； and I should
blame myself if I did not do a little justice to that tried company
of the Land Commissioners。
The Land Commission has been in many senses unfortunate。 The
original German member； a gentleman of the name of Eggert； fell
early into precarious health； his work was from the first
interrupted； he was at last （to the regret of all that knew him）
invalided home； and his successor had but just arrived。 In like
manner； the first American commissioner； Henry C。 Ide； a man of
character and intelligence； was recalled （I believe by private
affairs） when he was but just settling into the spirit of the work；
and though his place was promptly filled by ex…Governor Ormsbee； a
worthy successor； distinguished by strong and vivacious common
sense； the break was again sensible。 The English commissioner； my
friend Bazett Michael Haggard； is thus the only one who has
continued at his post since the beginning。 And yet； in spite of
these unusual changes； the Commission has a record perhaps
unrivalled among international commissions。 It has been unanimous
practically from the first until the last； and out of some four
hundred cases disposed of； there is but one on which the members
were divided。 It was the more unfortunate they should have early
fallen in a difficulty with the chief justice。 The original ground
of this is supposed to be a difference of opinion as to the import
of the Berlin Act； on which； as a layman； it would be unbecoming if
I were to offer an opinion。 But it must always seem as if the
chief justice had suffered himself to be irritated beyond the
bounds of discretion。 It must always seem as if his original
attempt to d