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acquaintance with European table utensils。 The Ameer brought to
St。 Petersburg splendid presents of gold and jewels； after the
Oriental fashion； and also the heir to his throne； whom he left
as a sort of hostage to be educated at the capital。
An eminent Russian who was in very close relations with the Ameer
gave me some account of this young man。 Although he was then
perhaps fourteen or fifteen years of age； he was； as regards
conduct； a mere baby； bursting out into loud boohooing the first
time he was presented to the Emperor； and showing himself very
immature in various ways。 Curiously enough； when he was taken to
the cadet school he was found to be unable to walk for any
considerable distance。 He had always been made to squat and be
carried； and the first thing to be done toward making him a
Russian officer was to train him in using his legs。 He took an
especial fancy to bicycles： in the park attached to the cadet
school he became very proficient in the use of them； and；
returning to Bokhara at his first vacation； he took with him； not
only a bicycle for himself； but another for his brother。 Shortly
after his home…coming； the Ameer and court being assembled； he
gave a display of his powers； but； to his great mortification；
the Ameer was disgusted： the idea that the heir to the throne
should be seen working his way in this fashion was contrary to
all the ideas of that potentate； and he ordered the bicycles to
be at once destroyed。 But on the young man's return to St。
Petersburg he bought another； resumed his exercises upon it； and
will； no doubt； when he comes to the throne； introduce that form
of locomotion into the Mohammedan regions of Northern Asia。
Among the greater displays of my final year were a wedding and a
funeral。 The former was that of the Emperor's eldest daughter；
the Grand Duchess Xenia； at Peterhof。 It was very brilliant； and
was conducted after the usual Russian fashion； its most curious
features being the leading of the couple about the altar and
their drinking out of the same cup。
Coming from the ceremony in the chapel； we of the diplomatic
corps found ourselves； at the foot of the great staircase； in a
crush。 But just at the side was a large door of plate…glass
opening upon an outer gallery communicating with other parts of
the palace； and standing guard at this door was one of the
〃Nubians〃 whom I had noticed； from time to time； at the Winter
Palacean enormous creature； very black； very glossy； with the
most brilliant costume possible。 I had heard much of these
〃Nubians；〃 and had been given to understand that they had been
brought from Central Africa by special command。 At great
assemblages in the imperial palaces； just before the doors were
flung open for the entrance of the Majesties and their cortege；
two great black hands were always to be seen put through the
doors； ready to open them in an instantthe hands of two of
these 〃Nubians。〃 I had built up in my mind quite a structure of
romance regarding them； and now found myself in the crush at the
foot of the grand staircase near one of them。 As I looked up at
him he said to me； with deferential compassion； 〃If you please；
sah； would n't you like to git out of de crowd； sah； through dis
yere doah？〃 By his dialect he was evidently one of my own
compatriots； and； though in a sort of daze at this discovery； I
mechanically accepted his invitation； whereupon he opened the
door； let us through； and kept back the crowd。
Splendid； too； in its way； was the funeral of the Grand Duchess
Catherine at the Fortress Church。 It was very impressive； almost
as much so as the funeral of the Emperor Nicholas； which I had
attended at the same place nearly forty years before。 The Emperor
Alexander III； with his brothers； had followed the hearse and
coffin on foot； and his Majesty was evidently greatly fatigued。
Soon he retired to take rest； and then it was that we began to
have the first suspicion of his fatal illness。 Up to that time
there had been skepticism。 Very few had thought it possible that
a man of such giant frame and strength could be seriously ill；
but now there could be no doubt of it。 Standing near him； I
noticed his pallor and evident fatigue； and was not surprised
that he twice left the place； in order； evidently； to secure
rest。 There was need of it。 In the Russian Church the rule is
that all must stand； and all of us stood from about ten in the
morning until half…past one in the afternoon； but two high
officials covered with gold lace and orders； bearing tapers by
the side of the grand duchess's coffin； toppled over from
exhaustion and were removed。
As to other spectacles； one of the most splendid was the midnight
mass on Easter eve。 At my former visit I had seen this at the
Kazan Church； now we went to the Cathedral of St。 Isaac。 The
ceremony was brilliant almost beyond conception； as in the old
days； the music was heavenly； and； as the clocks struck twelve；
the cannons of the fortress of Peter and Paul boomed forth； all
the bells of the city began chiming； and a light； appearing at
the extreme end of the church； seemed to run in all directions
through the vast assemblage； and presently all seemed ablaze。
Every person in the church was holding a taper； and within a few
moments all of these had been lighted。
Most beautiful of all was the music at another of these Easter
ceremonies； when the choristers； robed in white； came forth from
the sanctuary and sang hymns by the side of the empty sepulcher
under the dome。
The singing by the choirs in Russia is； in many respects； more
beautiful than similar music in any other part of the world； save
that of the cathedral choir of Berlin at its best。 I have heard
the Sistine； Pauline； and Lateran choirs at Rome； and they are
certainly far inferior to these Russian singers。 No instrumental
music is allowed and no voices of women。 The choristers are men
and boys。 There are several fine choirs in St。 Petersburg； but
three are famous： that of the Emperor at the Winter Palace
Chapel； that of the Archbishop at the Cathedral of St。 Isaac； and
that of the Nevski Monastery。 Occasionally there were concerts
when all were combined； and nothing in its way could be more
perfect。
Operatic music also receives careful attention。 Enormous
subsidies are given to secure the principal singers of Europe at
the Italian； French； and German theaters； but the most lavish
outlay is upon the national opera： it is considered a matter of
patriotism to ma