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vicinity； light bonfires on the hills on St。 John's eve； and dance
away the moonlight nights on the harvest…home of a small field
within the precincts of the fortress； which yields a few bushels of
wheat。
Before concluding these remarks； I must mention one of the
amusements of the place which has particularly struck me。 I had
repeatedly observed a long lean fellow perched on the top of one of
the towers； manoeuvring two or three fishing…rods； as though he were
angling for the stars。 I was for some time perplexed by the evolutions
of this aerial fisherman； and my perplexity increased on observing
others employed in like manner on different parts of the battlements
and bastions； it was not until I consulted Mateo Ximenes； that I
solved the mystery。
It seems that the pure and airy situation of this fortress has
rendered it； like the castle of Macbeth； a prolific breeding…place for
swallows and martlets； who sport about its towers in myriads； with the
holiday glee of urchins just let loose from school。 To entrap these
birds in their giddy circlings； with hooks baited with flies； is one
of the favorite amusements of the ragged 〃sons of the Alhambra；〃
who； with the good…for…nothing ingenuity of arrant idlers； have thus
invented the art of angling in the sky。
The Hall of Ambassadors。
IN ONE of my visits to the old Moorish chamber； where the good Tia
Antonia cooks her dinner and receives her company； I observed a
mysterious door in one corner； leading apparently into the ancient
part of the edifice。 My curiosity being aroused； I opened it； and
found myself in a narrow； blind corridor； groping along which I came
to the head of a dark winding staircase； leading down an angle of
the Tower of Comares。 Down this staircase I descended darkling；
guiding myself by the wall until I came to a small door at the bottom；
throwing which open； I was suddenly dazzled by emerging into the
brilliant antechamber of the Hall of Ambassadors； with the fountain of
the Court of the Alberca sparkling before me。 The antechamber is
separated from the court by an elegant gallery； supported by slender
columns with spandrels of open work in the Morisco style。 At each
end of the antechamber are alcoves； and its ceiling is richly stuccoed
and painted。 Passing through a magnificent portal I found myself in
the far…famed Hall of Ambassadors； the audience chamber of the
Moslem monarchs。 It is said to be thirty…seven feet square； and
sixty feet high； occupies the whole interior of the Tower of
Comares； and still bears the traces of past magnificence。 The walls
are beautifully stuccoed and decorated with Morisco fancifulness；
the lofty ceiling was originally of the same favorite material； with
the usual frostwork and pensile ornaments or stalactites； which；
with the embellishments of vivid coloring and gilding； must have
been gorgeous in the extreme。 Unfortunately it gave way during an
earthquake； and brought down with it an immense arch which traversed
the hall。 It was replaced by the present vault or dome of larch or
cedar； with intersecting ribs； the whole curiously wrought and
richly colored； still Oriental in its character； reminding one of
〃those ceilings of cedar and vermilion that we read of in the prophets
and the Arabian Nights。〃*
* Urquhart's Pillars of Hercules。
From the great height of the vault above the windows the upper
part of the hall is almost lost in obscurity； yet there is a
magnificence as well as solemnity in the gloom； as through it we
have gleams of rich gilding and the brilliant tints of the Moorish
pencil。
The royal throne was placed opposite the entrance in a recess； which
still bears an inscription intimating that Yusef I （the monarch who
completed the Alhambra） made this the throne of his empire。 Every
thing in this noble hall seems to have been calculated to surround the
throne with impressive dignity and splendor； there was none of the
elegant voluptuousness which reigns in other parts of the palace。
The tower is of massive strength； domineering over the whole edifice
and overhanging the steep hillside。 On three sides of the Hall of
Ambassadors are windows cut through the immense thickness of the
walls； and commanding extensive prospects。 The balcony of the
central window especially looks down upon the verdant valley of the
Darro； with its walks； its groves； and gardens。 To the left it
enjoys a distant prospect of the Vega； while directly in front rises
the rival height of the Albaycin； with its medley of streets； and
terraces； and gardens； and once crowned by a fortress that vied in
power with the Alhambra。 〃Ill fated the man who lost all this！〃
exclaimed Charles V； as he looked forth from this window upon the
enchanting scenery it commands。
The balcony of the window where this royal exclamation was made； has
of late become one of my favorite resorts。 I have just been seated
there； enjoying the close of a long brilliant day。 The sun； as he sank
behind the purple mountains of Alhama； sent a stream of effulgence
up the valley of the Darro； that spread a melancholy pomp over the
ruddy towers of the Alhambra； while the Vega； covered with a slight
sultry vapor that caught the setting ray； seemed spread out in the
distance like a golden sea。 Not a breath of air disturbed the
stillness of the hour； and though the faint sound of music and
merriment now and then rose from the gardens of the Darro； it but
rendered more impressive the monumental silence of the pile which
overshadowed me。 It was one of those hours and scenes in which
memory asserts an almost magical power； and； like the evening sun
beaming on these mouldering towers； sends back her retrospective
rays to light up the glories of the past。
As I sat watching the effect of the declining daylight upon this
Moorish pile； I was led into a consideration of the light； elegant；
and voluptuous character； prevalent throughout its internal
architecture； and to contrast it with the grand but gloomy solemnity
of the Gothic edifices reared by the Spanish conquerors。 The very
architecture thus bespeaks the opposite and irreconcilable natures
of the two warlike people who so long battled here for the mastery
of the peninsula。 By degrees； I fell into a course of musing upon
the singular fortunes of the Arabian or Morisco…Spaniards； whose whole
existence is as a tale that is told； and certainly forms one of the
most anomalous yet splendid episodes in history。 Potent and durable as
was their dominion； we scarcely know how to call them。 They were a
nation without a legitimate country or name。 A remote wave of the
great Arabian inundation； cast upon the shores of Europe； they seem to
have all the impetus of the first rush of the torrent。 Their career of
conquest； from the rock of Gibraltar to the cliffs of the Pyrenees；
was as rapid and brilliant as the Moslem victories of Syria and Egypt。
Nay； had they not been checked on the plains of Tours； all