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in a glorious curve； very wan； against a very pale blue sky； with
its base and the intervening country veiled in a pale grey mist。
｛1｝ It was a wonderful vision； and shortly； as a vision； vanished。
Except the cone of Tristan d'Acunhaalso a cone of snowI never
saw a mountain rise in such lonely majesty； with nothing near or
far to detract from its height and grandeur。 No wonder that it is
a sacred mountain； and so dear to the Japanese that their art is
never weary of representing it。 It was nearly fifty miles off when
we first saw it。
The air and water were alike motionless； the mist was still and
pale； grey clouds lay restfully on a bluish sky； the reflections of
the white sails of the fishing…boats scarcely quivered； it was all
so pale； wan； and ghastly； that the turbulence of crumpled foam
which we left behind us； and our noisy； throbbing progress； seemed
a boisterous intrusion upon sleeping Asia。
The gulf narrowed； the forest…crested hills； the terraced ravines；
the picturesque grey villages； the quiet beach life； and the pale
blue masses of the mountains of the interior； became more visible。
Fuji retired into the mist in which he enfolds his grandeur for
most of the summer； we passed Reception Bay； Perry Island； Webster
Island； Cape Saratoga； and Mississippi BayAmerican nomenclature
which perpetuates the successes of American diplomacyand not far
from Treaty Point came upon a red lightship with the words 〃Treaty
Point〃 in large letters upon her。 Outside of this no foreign
vessel may anchor。
The bustle among my fellow…passengers； many of whom were returning
home； and all of whom expected to be met by friends； left me at
leisure； as I looked at unattractive； unfamiliar Yokohama and the
pale grey land stretched out before me； to speculate somewhat sadly
on my destiny on these strange shores； on which I have not even an
acquaintance。 On mooring we were at once surrounded by crowds of
native boats called by foreigners sampans； and Dr。 Gulick； a near
relation of my Hilo friends； came on board to meet his daughter；
welcomed me cordially； and relieved me of all the trouble of
disembarkation。 These sampans are very clumsy…looking； but are
managed with great dexterity by the boatmen； who gave and received
any number of bumps with much good nature； and without any of the
shouting and swearing in which competitive boatmen usually indulge。
The partially triangular shape of these boats approaches that of a
salmon…fisher's punt used on certain British rivers。 Being floored
gives them the appearance of being absolutely flat…bottomed； but；
though they tilt readily； they are very safe； being heavily built
and fitted together with singular precision with wooden bolts and a
few copper cleets。 They are SCULLED； not what we should call
rowed； by two or four men with very heavy oars made of two pieces
of wood working on pins placed on outrigger bars。 The men scull
standing and use the thigh as a rest for the oar。 They all wear a
single； wide…sleeved； scanty； blue cotton garment； not fastened or
girdled at the waist； straw sandals； kept on by a thong passing
between the great toe and the others； and if they wear any head…
gear； it is only a wisp of blue cotton tied round the forehead。
The one garment is only an apology for clothing； and displays lean
concave chests and lean muscular limbs。 The skin is very yellow；
and often much tattooed with mythical beasts。 The charge for
sampans is fixed by tariff； so the traveller lands without having
his temper ruffled by extortionate demands。
The first thing that impressed me on landing was that there were no
loafers； and that all the small； ugly； kindly…looking； shrivelled；
bandy…legged； round…shouldered； concave…chested； poor…looking
beings in the streets had some affairs of their own to mind。 At
the top of the landing…steps there was a portable restaurant； a
neat and most compact thing； with charcoal stove； cooking and
eating utensils complete； but it looked as if it were made by and
for dolls； and the mannikin who kept it was not five feet high。 At
the custom…house we were attended to by minute officials in blue
uniforms of European pattern and leather boots； very civil
creatures； who opened and examined our trunks carefully； and
strapped them up again； contrasting pleasingly with the insolent
and rapacious officials who perform the same duties at New York。
Outside were about fifty of the now well…known jin…ti…ki…shas； and
the air was full of a buzz produced by the rapid reiteration of
this uncouth word by fifty tongues。 This conveyance； as you know；
is a feature of Japan； growing in importance every day。 It was
only invented seven years ago； and already there are nearly 23；000
in one city； and men can make so much more by drawing them than by
almost any kind of skilled labour； that thousands of fine young men
desert agricultural pursuits and flock into the towns to make
draught…animals of themselves； though it is said that the average
duration of a man's life after he takes to running is only five
years； and that the runners fall victims in large numbers to
aggravated forms of heart and lung disease。 Over tolerably level
ground a good runner can trot forty miles a day； at a rate of about
four miles an hour。 They are registered and taxed at 8s。 a year
for one carrying two persons； and 4s。 for one which carries one
only； and there is a regular tariff for time and distance。
The kuruma； or jin…ri…ki…sha； ｛2｝ consists of a light perambulator
body； an adjustable hood of oiled paper； a velvet or cloth lining
and cushion； a well for parcels under the seat； two high slim
wheels； and a pair of shafts connected by a bar at the ends。 The
body is usually lacquered and decorated according to its owner's
taste。 Some show little except polished brass； others are
altogether inlaid with shells known as Venus's ear； and others are
gaudily painted with contorted dragons； or groups of peonies；
hydrangeas； chrysanthemums； and mythical personages。 They cost
from 2 pounds upwards。 The shafts rest on the ground at a steep
incline as you get init must require much practice to enable one
to mount with ease or dignitythe runner lifts them up； gets into
them； gives the body a good tilt backwards； and goes off at a smart
trot。 They are drawn by one； two； or three men； according to the
speed desired by the occupants。 When rain comes on； the man puts
up the hood； and ties you and it closely up in a covering of oiled
paper； in which you are invisible。 At night； whether running or
standing still； they carry prettily…painted circular paper lanterns
18 inches long。 It is most comical to see stout； florid； solid…
looking merchants； missionaries； male and female； fashionably…
dressed ladies； armed with card cases； Chinese compradores； and
Japanese peasant men and women flying along Main Street； which is
like the decent respectable High Street of a dozen forgotten
country towns in England； in happy unconsciousness of the
ludicrousness of their appearance； racing； chasing； crossing each
other； their lean； polite； pleasant runners in their great hats
shaped like inverted bowls； their incomprehensib