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do not follow betrothal； are resorted to on the birth of the first
child。 In other houses women are at their toilet； blackening their
teeth before circular metal mirrors placed in folding stands on the
mats； or performing ablutions； unclothed to the waist。 Early the
village is very silent； while the children are at school； their
return enlivens it a little； but they are quiet even at play； at
sunset the men return； and things are a little livelier； you hear a
good deal of splashing in baths； and after that they carry about
and play with their younger children； while the older ones prepare
lessons for the following day by reciting them in a high；
monotonous twang。 At dark the paper windows are drawn； the amado；
or external wooden shutters； are closed； the lamp is lighted before
the family shrine； supper is eaten； the children play at quiet
games round the andon； and about ten the quilts and wooden pillows
are produced from the press； the amado are bolted； and the family
lies down to sleep in one room。 Small trays of food and the
tabako…bon are always within reach of adult sleepers； and one grows
quite accustomed to hear the sound of ashes being knocked out of
the pipe at intervals during the night。 The children sit up as
late as their parents； and are included in all their conversation。
I never saw people take so much delight in their offspring；
carrying them about； or holding their hands in walking； watching
and entering into their games； supplying them constantly with new
toys； taking them to picnics and festivals； never being content to
be without them； and treating other people's children also with a
suitable measure of affection and attention。 Both fathers and
mothers take a pride in their children。 It is most amusing about
six every morning to see twelve or fourteen men sitting on a low
wall； each with a child under two years in his arms； fondling and
playing with it； and showing off its physique and intelligence。 To
judge from appearances； the children form the chief topic at this
morning gathering。 At night； after the houses are shut up； looking
through the long fringe of rope or rattan which conceals the
sliding door； you see the father； who wears nothing but a maro in
〃the bosom of his family；〃 bending his ugly； kindly face over a
gentle…looking baby； and the mother； who more often than not has
dropped the kimono from her shoulders； enfolding two children
destitute of clothing in her arms。 For some reasons they prefer
boys； but certainly girls are equally petted and loved。 The
children； though for our ideas too gentle and formal； are very
prepossessing in looks and behaviour。 They are so perfectly docile
and obedient； so ready to help their parents； so good to the little
ones； and； in the many hours which I have spent in watching them at
play； I have never heard an angry word or seen a sour look or act。
But they are little men and women rather than children； and their
old…fashioned appearance is greatly aided by their dress； which； as
I have remarked before； is the same as that of adults。
There are； however； various styles of dressing the hair of girls；
by which you can form a pretty accurate estimate of any girl's age
up to her marriage； when the coiffure undergoes a definite change。
The boys all look top…heavy and their heads of an abnormal size；
partly from a hideous practice of shaving the head altogether for
the first three years。 After this the hair is allowed to grow in
three tufts； one over each ear； and the other at the back of the
neck； as often； however； a tuft is grown at the top of the back of
the head。 At ten the crown alone is shaved and a forelock is worn；
and at fifteen； when the boy assumes the responsibilities of
manhood； his hair is allowed to grow like that of a man。 The grave
dignity of these boys； with the grotesque patterns on their big
heads； is most amusing。
Would that these much…exposed skulls were always smooth and clean！
It is painful to see the prevalence of such repulsive maladies as
scabies； scald…head； ringworm； sore eyes； and unwholesome…looking
eruptions； and fully 30 per cent of the village people are badly
seamed with smallpox。
LETTER X（Completed）
Shops and ShoppingThe Barber's ShopA Paper WaterproofIto's
VanityPreparations for the JourneyTransport and PricesMoney
and Measurements。
I have had to do a little shopping in Hachiishi for my journey。
The shop…fronts； you must understand； are all open； and at the
height of the floor； about two feet from the ground； there is a
broad ledge of polished wood on which you sit down。 A woman
everlastingly boiling water on a bronze hibachi； or brazier；
shifting the embers about deftly with brass tongs like chopsticks；
and with a baby looking calmly over her shoulders； is the
shopwoman； but she remains indifferent till she imagines that you
have a definite purpose of buying； when she comes forward bowing to
the ground； and I politely rise and bow too。 Then I or Ito ask the
price of a thing； and she names it； very likely asking 4s。 for what
ought to sell at 6d。 You say 3s。； she laughs and says 3s。 6d。； you
say 2s。； she laughs again and says 3s。； offering you the tabako…
bon。 Eventually the matter is compromised by your giving her 1s。；
at which she appears quite delighted。 With a profusion of bows and
〃sayo naras〃 on each side； you go away with the pleasant feeling of
having given an industrious woman twice as much as the thing was
worth to her； and less than what it is worth to you！
There are several barbers' shops； and the evening seems a very busy
time with them。 This operation partakes of the general want of
privacy of the life of the village； and is performed in the raised
open front of the shop。 Soap is not used； and the process is a
painful one。 The victims let their garments fall to their waists；
and each holds in his left hand a lacquered tray to receive the
croppings。 The ugly Japanese face at this time wears a most
grotesque expression of stolid resignation as it is held and pulled
about by the operator； who turns it in all directions； that he may
judge of the effect that he is producing。 The shaving the face
till it is smooth and shiny； and the cutting； waxing； and tying of
the queue with twine made of paper； are among the evening sights of
Nikko。
Lacquer and things curiously carved in wood are the great
attractions of the shops； but they interest me far less than the
objects of utility in Japanese daily life； with their ingenuity of
contrivance and perfection of adaptation and workmanship。 A seed
shop； where seeds are truly idealised； attracts me daily。 Thirty
varieties are offered for sale； as various in form as they are in
colour； and arranged most artistically on stands； while some are
put up in packages decorated with what one may call a facsimile of
the root； leaves； and flower； in water…colours。 A lad usually lies
on the mat behind executing these very creditable picturesfor
such they arewith a few bold and apparently careless strokes with
his brush。 He gladly sold me a peony as a scrap for a screen for 3
sen。 My purchases； with this exception； were necessaries onlya
pap