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head； to the great distress of the kindly female mago。 The straw
shoes tied with wisps round the pasterns are a great nuisance。 The
〃shoe strings〃 are always coming untied； and the shoes only wear
about two ri on soft ground； and less than one on hard。 They keep
the feet so soft and spongy that the horses can't walk without them
at all； and as soon as they get thin your horse begins to stumble；
the mago gets uneasy； and presently you stop； four shoes； which are
hanging from the saddle； are soaked in water and are tied on with
much coaxing； raising the animal fully an inch above the ground。
Anything more temporary and clumsy could not be devised。 The
bridle paths are strewn with them； and the children collect them in
heaps to decay for manure。 They cost 3 or 4 sen the set； and in
every village men spend their leisure time in making them。
At the next stage； called Takahara； we got one horse for the
baggage； crossed the river and the ravine； and by a steep climb
reached a solitary yadoya with the usual open front and irori；
round which a number of people； old and young； were sitting。 When
I arrived a whole bevy of nice…looking girls took to flight； but
were soon recalled by a word from Ito to their elders。 Lady
Parkes； on a side…saddle and in a riding…habit； has been taken for
a man till the people saw her hair； and a young friend of mine； who
is very pretty and has a beautiful complexion； when travelling
lately with her husband； was supposed to be a man who had shaven
off his beard。 I wear a hat； which is a thing only worn by women
in the fields as a protection from sun and rain； my eyebrows are
unshaven； and my teeth are unblackened； so these girls supposed me
to be a foreign man。 Ito in explanation said； 〃They haven't seen
any； but everybody brings them tales how rude foreigners are to
girls； and they are awful scared。〃 There was nothing eatable but
rice and eggs； and I ate them under the concentrated stare of
eighteen pairs of dark eyes。 The hot springs； to which many people
afflicted with sores resort； are by the river； at the bottom of a
rude flight of steps； in an open shed； but I could not ascertain
their temperature； as a number of men and women were sitting in the
water。 They bathe four times a day； and remain for an hour at a
time。
We left for the five miles' walk to Ikari in a torrent of rain by a
newly…made path completely shut in with the cascading Kinugawa； and
carried along sometimes low； sometimes high； on props projecting
over it from the face of the rock。 I do not expect to see anything
lovelier in Japan。
The river； always crystal…blue or crystal…green； largely increased
in volume by the rains； forces itself through gates of brightly…
coloured rock； by which its progress is repeatedly arrested； and
rarely lingers for rest in all its sparkling； rushing course。 It
is walled in by high mountains； gloriously wooded and cleft by dark
ravines； down which torrents were tumbling in great drifts of foam；
crashing and booming； boom and crash multiplied by many an echo；
and every ravine afforded glimpses far back of more mountains；
clefts； and waterfalls； and such over…abundant vegetation that I
welcomed the sight of a gray cliff or bare face of rock。 Along the
path there were fascinating details； composed of the manifold
greenery which revels in damp heat； ferns； mosses； confervae；
fungi； trailers； shading tiny rills which dropped down into
grottoes feathery with the exquisite Trichomanes radicans； or
drooped over the rustic path and hung into the river； and overhead
the finely incised and almost feathery foliage of several varieties
of maple admitted the light only as a green mist。 The spring tints
have not yet darkened into the monotone of summer； rose azaleas
still light the hillsides； and masses of cryptomeria give depth and
shadow。 Still； beautiful as it all is； one sighs for something
which shall satisfy one's craving for startling individuality and
grace of form； as in the coco…palm and banana of the tropics。 The
featheriness of the maple； and the arrowy straightness and
pyramidal form of the cryptomeria； please me better than all else；
but why criticise？ Ten minutes of sunshine would transform the
whole into fairyland。
There were no houses and no people。 Leaving this beautiful river
we crossed a spur of a hill； where all the trees were matted
together by a very fragrant white honeysuckle； and came down upon
an open valley where a quiet stream joins the loud…tongued
Kinugawa； and another mile brought us to this beautifully…situated
hamlet of twenty…five houses； surrounded by mountains； and close to
a mountain stream called the Okawa。 The names of Japanese rivers
give one very little geographical information from their want of
continuity。 A river changes its name several times in a course of
thirty or forty miles； according to the districts through which it
passes。 This is my old friend the Kinugawa； up which I have been
travelling for two days。 Want of space is a great aid to the
picturesque。 Ikari is crowded together on a hill slope； and its
short； primitive…looking street； with its warm browns and greys； is
quite attractive in 〃the clear shining after rain。〃 My halting…
place is at the express office at the top of the hilla place like
a big barn； with horses at one end and a living…room at the other；
and in the centre much produce awaiting transport； and a group of
people stripping mulberry branches。 The nearest daimiyo used to
halt here on his way to Tokiyo； so there are two rooms for
travellers； called daimiyos' rooms； fifteen feet high； handsomely
ceiled in dark wood； the shoji of such fine work as to merit the
name of fret…work； the fusuma artistically decorated； the mats
clean and fine； and in the alcove a sword…rack of old gold lacquer。
Mine is the inner room； and Ito and four travellers occupy the
outer one。 Though very dark； it is luxury after last night。 The
rest of the house is given up to the rearing of silk…worms。 The
house…masters here and at Fujihara are not used to passports； and
Ito； who is posing as a town…bred youth； has explained and copied
mine； all the village men assembling to hear it read aloud。 He
does not know the word used for 〃scientific investigation；〃 but； in
the idea of increasing his own importance by exaggerating mine； I
hear him telling the people that I am gakusha； i。e。 learned！ There
is no police…station here； but every month policemen pay
domiciliary visits to these outlying yadoyas and examine the
register of visitors。
This is a much neater place than the last； but the people look
stupid and apathetic； and I wonder what they think of the men who
have abolished the daimiyo and the feudal regime； have raised the
eta to citizenship； and are hurrying the empire forward on the
tracks of western civilisation！
Since shingle has given place to thatch there is much to admire in
the villages； with their steep roofs； deep eaves and balconies； the
warm russet of roofs and walls； the quaint confusion of the
farmhouses； the hedges of camellia and pomegranate； the bamboo
clumps and persimmon orchards； and （in spite of dirt and bad
smells） t