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Yesterday I dined at the Consulate； to meet Count Diesbach； of the
French Legation； Mr。 Von Siebold； of the Austrian Legation； and
Lieutenant Kreitner； of the Austrian army； who start to…morrow on
an exploring expedition in the interior； intending to cross the
sources of the rivers which fall into the sea on the southern coast
and measure the heights of some of the mountains。 They are 〃well
found〃 in food and claret； but take such a number of pack…ponies
with them that I predict that they will fail； and that I； who have
reduced my luggage to 45 lbs。； will succeed！
I hope to start on my long…projected tour to…morrow； I have planned
it for myself with the confidence of an experienced traveller； and
look forward to it with great pleasure； as a visit to the
aborigines is sure to be full of novel and interesting experiences。
Good…bye for a long time。 I。 L。 B。
LETTER XXXV ｛17｝
A Lovely SunsetAn Official LetterA 〃Front Horse〃Japanese
CourtesyThe Steam FerryCoolies AbscondA Team of SavagesA
Drove of HorsesFloral BeautiesAn Unbeaten TrackA Ghostly
DwellingSolitude and Eeriness。
GINSAINOMA； YEZO； August 17。
I am once again in the wilds！ I am sitting outside an upper room
built out almost over a lonely lake； with wooded points purpling
and still shadows deepening in the sinking sun。 A number of men
are dragging down the nearest hillside the carcass of a bear which
they have just despatched with spears。 There is no village； and
the busy clatter of the cicada and the rustle of the forest are the
only sounds which float on the still evening air。 The sunset
colours are pink and green； on the tinted water lie the waxen cups
of great water…lilies； and above the wooded heights the pointed；
craggy； and altogether naked summit of the volcano of Komono…taki
flushes red in the sunset。 Not the least of the charms of the
evening is that I am absolutely alone； having ridden the eighteen
miles from Hakodate without Ito or an attendant of any kind； have
unsaddled my own horse； and by means of much politeness and a
dexterous use of Japanese substantives have secured a good room and
supper of rice； eggs； and black beans for myself and a mash of
beans for my horse； which； as it belongs to the Kaitakushi； and has
the dignity of iron shoes； is entitled to special consideration！
I am not yet off the 〃beaten track；〃 but my spirits are rising with
the fine weather； the drier atmosphere； and the freedom of Yezo。
Yezo is to the main island of Japan what Tipperary is to an
Englishman； Barra to a Scotchman； 〃away down in Texas〃 to a New
Yorkerin the rough； little known； and thinly…peopled； and people
can locate all sorts of improbable stories here without much fear
of being found out； of which the Ainos and the misdeeds of the
ponies furnish the staple； and the queer doings of men and dogs；
and adventures with bears； wolves； and salmon； the embroidery。
Nobody comes here without meeting with something queer； and one or
two tumbles either with or from his horse。 Very little is known of
the interior except that it is covered with forest matted together
by lianas； and with an undergrowth of scrub bamboo impenetrable
except to the axe； varied by swamps equally impassable； which give
rise to hundreds of rivers well stocked with fish。 The glare of
volcanoes is seen in different parts of the island。 The forests
are the hunting…grounds of the Ainos； who are complete savages in
everything but their disposition； which is said to be so gentle and
harmless that I may go among them with perfect safety。
Kindly interest has been excited by the first foray made by a lady
into the country of the aborigines； and Mr。 Eusden； the Consul； has
worked upon the powers that be with such good effect that the
Governor has granted me a shomon； a sort of official letter or
certificate； giving me a right to obtain horses and coolies
everywhere at the Government rate of 6 sen a ri； with a prior claim
to accommodation at the houses kept up for officials on their
circuits； and to help and assistance from officials generally； and
the Governor has further telegraphed to the other side of Volcano
Bay desiring the authorities to give me the use of the Government
kuruma as long as I need it； and to detain the steamer to suit my
convenience！ With this document； which enables me to dispense with
my passport； I shall find travelling very easy； and I am very
grateful to the Consul for procuring it for me。
Here； where rice and tea have to be imported； there is a uniform
charge at the yadoyas of 30 sen a day； which includes three meals；
whether you eat them or not。 Horses are abundant； but are small；
and are not up to heavy weights。 They are entirely unshod； and；
though their hoofs are very shallow and grow into turned…up points
and other singular shapes； they go over rough ground with facility
at a scrambling run of over four miles an hour following a leader
called a 〃front horse。〃 If you don't get a 〃front horse〃 and try
to ride in front； you find that your horse will not stir till he
has another before him； and then you are perfectly helpless； as he
follows the movements of his leader without any reference to your
wishes。 There are no mago； a man rides the 〃front horse〃 and goes
at whatever pace you please； or； if you get a 〃front horse；〃 you
may go without any one。 Horses are cheap and abundant。 They drive
a number of them down from the hills every morning into corrals in
the villages； and keep them there till they are wanted。 Because
they are so cheap they are very badly used。 I have not seen one
yet without a sore back； produced by the harsh pack…saddle rubbing
up and down the spine； as the loaded animals are driven at a run。
They are mostly very poor…looking。
As there was some difficulty about getting a horse for me the
Consul sent one of the Kaitakushi saddle…horses； a handsome； lazy
animal； which I rarely succeeded in stimulating into a heavy
gallop。 Leaving Ito to follow with the baggage； I enjoyed my
solitary ride and the possibility of choosing my own pace very
much； though the choice was only between a slow walk and the
lumbering gallop aforesaid。
I met strings of horses loaded with deer hides； and overtook other
strings loaded with sake and manufactured goods and in each case
had a fight with my sociably inclined animal。 In two villages I
was interested to see that the small shops contained lucifer
matches； cotton umbrellas； boots； brushes； clocks； slates； and
pencils； engravings in frames； kerosene lamps； ｛18｝ and red and
green blankets； all but the last； which are unmistakable British
〃shoddy；〃 being Japanese imitations of foreign manufactured goods；
more or less cleverly executed。 The road goes up hill for fifteen
miles； and； after passing Nanai； a trim Europeanised village in the
midst of fine crops； one of the places at which the Government is
making acclimatisation and other agricultural experiments； it
fairly enters the mountains； and from the top of a steep hill there
is a glorious view of Hakodate Head； looking like an island in the
deep blue sea； and from the top of a higher hill； looking
northward； a magnificent view of the vo