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breaks in the dense greenery are glints of the shining waters of
the Sarufutogawa； and the tawny roofs of the Aino lodges。 It is a
lonely and a silent land； fitter for the HIDING place than the
DWELLING place of men。
When the splendid young savage； Pipichari； saw that I found it
difficult to get up； he took my hand and helped me up； as gently as
an English gentleman would have done； and when he saw that I had
greater difficulty in getting down； he all but insisted on my
riding down on his back； and certainly would have carried me had
not Benri； the chief； who arrived while we were at the shrine； made
an end of it by taking my hand and helping me down himself。 Their
instinct of helpfulness to a foreign woman strikes me as so odd；
because they never show any courtesy to their own women； whom they
treat （though to a less extent than is usual among savages） as
inferior beings。
On the very edge of the cliff； at the top of the zigzag； stands a
wooden temple or shrine； such as one sees in any grove； or on any
high place on the main island； obviously of Japanese construction；
but concerning which Aino tradition is silent。 No European had
ever stood where I stood； and there was a solemnity in the
knowledge。 The sub…chief drew back the sliding doors； and all
bowed with much reverence； It was a simple shrine of unlacquered
wood； with a broad shelf at the back； on which there was a small
shrine containing a figure of the historical hero Yoshitsune； in a
suit of inlaid brass armour； some metal gohei； a pair of tarnished
brass candle…sticks； and a coloured Chinese picture representing a
junk。 Here； then； I was introduced to the great god of the
mountain Ainos。 There is something very pathetic in these people
keeping alive the memory of Yoshitsune； not on account of his
martial exploits； but simply because their tradition tells them
that he was kind to them。 They pulled the bell three times to
attract his attention； bowed three times； and made six libations of
sake； without which ceremony he cannot be approached。 They asked
me to worship their god； but when I declined on the ground that I
could only worship my own God； the Lord of Earth and Heaven； of the
dead and of the living； they were too courteous to press their
request。 As to Ito； it did not signify to him whether or not he
added another god to his already crowded Pantheon； and he
〃worshipped；〃 i。e。 bowed down； most willingly before the great hero
of his own； the conquering race。
While we were crowded there on the narrow ledge of the cliff；
Benri； the chief； arriveda square…built； broad…shouldered；
elderly man； strong as an ox； and very handsome； but his expression
is not pleasing； and his eyes are bloodshot with drinking。 The
others saluted him very respectfully； but I noticed then and since
that his manner is very arbitrary； and that a blow not infrequently
follows a word。 He had sent a message to his people by Ito that
they were not to answer any questions till he returned； but Ito
very tactfully neither gave it nor told me of it； and he was
displeased with the young men for having talked to me so much。 His
mother had evidently 〃peached。〃 I like him less than any of his
tribe。 He has some fine qualities； truthfulness among others； but
he has been contaminated by the four or five foreigners that he has
seen； and is a brute and a sot。 The hearts of his people are no
longer sad； for there is sake in every house to…night。
I。 L。 B。
LETTER XXXVII
Barrenness of Savage LifeIrreclaimable SavagesThe Aino
PhysiqueFemale Comeliness… Torture and OrnamentChild Life
Docility and Obedience。
BIRATORI； YEZO； August 24。
I expected to have written out my notes on the Ainos in the
comparative quiet and comfort of Sarufuto； but the delay in Benri's
return； and the non…arrival of the horses； have compelled me to
accept Aino hospitality for another night； which involves living on
tea and potatoes； for my stock of food is exhausted。 In some
respects I am glad to remain longer； as it enables me to go over my
stock of words； as well as my notes； with the chief； who is
intelligent and it is a pleasure to find that his statements
confirm those which have been made by the young men。 The glamour
which at first disguises the inherent barrenness of savage life has
had time to pass away； and I see it in all its nakedness as a life
not much raised above the necessities of animal existence； timid；
monotonous； barren of good； dark； dull； 〃without hope； and without
God in the world；〃 though at its lowest and worst considerably
higher and better than that of many other aboriginal races； and
must I say it？considerably higher and better than that of
thousands of the lapsed masses of our own great cities who are
baptized into Christ's name； and are laid at last in holy ground；
inasmuch as the Ainos are truthful； and； on the whole； chaste；
hospitable； honest； reverent； and kind to the aged。 Drinking；
their great vice； is not； as among us； in antagonism to their
religion； but is actually a part of it； and as such would be
exceptionally difficult to eradicate。
The early darkness has once again come on； and once again the
elders have assembled round the fire in two long lines； with the
younger men at the ends； Pipichari； who yesterday sat in the place
of honour and was helped to food first as the newest arrival；
taking his place as the youngest at the end of the right…hand row。
The birch…bark chips beam with fitful glare； the evening sake bowls
are filled； the fire…god and the garlanded god receive their
libations； the ancient woman； still sitting like a Fate； splits
bark； and the younger women knot it； and the log…fire lights up as
magnificent a set of venerable heads as painter or sculptor would
desire to see；heads； full ofwhat？ They have no history； their
traditions are scarcely worthy the name； they claim descent from a
dog； their houses and persons swarm with vermin； they are sunk in
the grossest ignorance； they have no letters or any numbers above a
thousand； they are clothed in the bark of trees and the untanned
skins of beasts； they worship the bear； the sun； moon； fire； water；
and I know not what； they are uncivilisable and altogether
irreclaimable savages； yet they are attractive； and in some ways
fascinating； and I hope I shall never forget the music of their
low； sweet voices； the soft light of their mild； brown eyes； and
the wonderful sweetness of their smile。
After the yellow skins； the stiff horse hair； the feeble eyelids；
the elongated eyes； the sloping eyebrows； the flat noses； the
sunken chests； the Mongolian features； the puny physique； the shaky
walk of the men； the restricted totter of the women； and the
general impression of degeneracy conveyed by the appearance of the
Japanese； the Ainos make a very singular impression。 All but two
or three that I have seen are the most ferocious…looking of
savages； with a physique vigorous enough for carrying out the most
ferocious intentions； but as soon as they speak the countenance
brightens into a smile as gentle as that of a woman； something
which can never be forgotten。
The men are about the middle height；