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things in a mat； and； being slung on poles； is carried to a
solitary grave； where it is laid in a recumbent position。 Nothing
will induce an Aino to go near a grave。 Even if a valuable bird or
animal falls near one； he will not go to pick it up。 A vague dread
is for ever associated with the departed； and no dream of Paradise
ever lights for the Aino the 〃Stygian shades。〃
Benri is； for an Aino； intelligent。 Two years ago Mr。 Dening of
Hakodate came up here and told him that there was but one God who
made us all； to which the shrewd old man replied； 〃If the God who
made you made us； how is it that you are so differentyou so rich；
we so poor？〃 On asking him about the magnificent pieces of lacquer
and inlaying which adorn his curio shelf； he said that they were
his father's； grandfather's； and great…grandfather's at least； and
he thinks they were gifts from the daimiyo of Matsumae soon after
the conquest of Yezo。 He is a grand…looking man； in spite of the
havoc wrought by his intemperate habits。 There is plenty of room
in the house； and this morning； when I asked him to show me the use
of the spear； he looked a truly magnificent savage； stepping well
back with the spear in rest； and then springing forward for the
attack； his arms and legs turning into iron； the big muscles
standing out in knots； his frame quivering with excitement； the
thick hair falling back in masses from his brow； and the fire of
the chase in his eye。 I trembled for my boy； who was the object of
the imaginary onslaught； the passion of sport was so admirably
acted。
As I write； seven of the older men are sitting by the fire。 Their
grey beards fall to their waists in rippled masses； and the slight
baldness of age not only gives them a singularly venerable
appearance； but enhances the beauty of their lofty brows。 I took a
rough sketch of one of the handsomest； and； showing it to him；
asked if he would have it； but instead of being amused or pleased
he showed symptoms of fear； and asked me to burn it； saying it
would bring him bad luck and he should die。 However； Ito pacified
him； and he accepted it； after a Chinese character； which is
understood to mean good luck； had been written upon it； but all the
others begged me not to 〃make pictures〃 of them； except Pipichari；
who lies at my feet like a staghound。
The profusion of black hair； and a curious intensity about their
eyes； coupled with the hairy limbs and singularly vigorous
physique； give them a formidably savage appearance； but the smile；
full of 〃sweetness and light；〃 in which both eyes and mouth bear
part； and the low； musical voice； softer and sweeter than anything
I have previously heard； make me at times forget that they are
savages at all。 The venerable look of these old men harmonises
with the singular dignity and courtesy of their manners； but as I
look at the grand heads； and reflect that the Ainos have never
shown any capacity； and are merely adult children； they seem to
suggest water on the brain rather than intellect。 I am more and
more convinced that the expression of their faces is European。 It
is truthful； straightforward； manly； but both it and the tone of
voice are strongly tinged with pathos。
Before these elders Benri asked me； in a severe tone； if I had been
annoyed in any way during his absence。 He feared； he said； that
the young men and the women would crowd about me rudely。 I made a
complimentary speech in return； and all the ancient hands were
waved； and the venerable beards were stroked in acknowledgment。
These Ainos； doubtless； stand high among uncivilised peoples。 They
are； however； as completely irreclaimable as the wildest of nomad
tribes； and contact with civilisation； where it exists； only
debases them。 Several young Ainos were sent to Tokiyo； and
educated and trained in various ways； but as soon as they returned
to Yezo they relapsed into savagery； retaining nothing but a
knowledge of Japanese。 They are charming in many ways； but make
one sad； too； by their stupidity； apathy； and hopelessness； and all
the sadder that their numbers appear to be again increasing； and as
their physique is very fine； there does not appear to be a prospect
of the race dying out at present。
They are certainly superior to many aborigines； as they have an
approach to domestic life。 They have one word for HOUSE； and
another for HOME； and one word for husband approaches very nearly
to house…band。 Truth is of value in their eyes； and this in itself
raises them above some peoples。 Infanticide is unknown； and aged
parents receive filial reverence； kindness； and support； while in
their social and domestic relations there is much that is
praiseworthy。
I must conclude this letter abruptly； as the horses are waiting；
and I must cross the rivers； if possible； before the bursting of an
impending storm。 I。 L。 B。
LETTER XXXVIII
A Parting GiftA DelicacyGenerosityA Seaside Village
Pipichari's AdviceA Drunken RevelIto's PropheciesThe Kocho's
IllnessPatent Medicines。
SARUFUTO； YEZO； August 27。
I left the Ainos yesterday with real regret； though I must confess
that sleeping in one's clothes and the lack of ablutions are very
fatiguing。 Benri's two wives spent the early morning in the
laborious operation of grinding millet into coarse flour； and
before I departed； as their custom is； they made a paste of it；
rolled it with their unclean fingers into well…shaped cakes； boiled
them in the unwashed pot in which they make their stew of
〃abominable things；〃 and presented them to me on a lacquer tray。
They were distressed that I did not eat their food； and a woman
went to a village at some distance and brought me some venison fat
as a delicacy。 All those of whom I had seen much came to wish me
good…bye； and they brought so many presents （including a fine
bearskin） that I should have needed an additional horse to carry
them had I accepted but one…half。
I rode twelve miles through the forest to Mombets； where I intended
to spend Sunday； but I had the worst horse I ever rode； and we took
five hours。 The day was dull and sad； threatening a storm； and
when we got out of the forest； upon a sand…hill covered with oak
scrub； we encountered a most furious wind。 Among the many views
which I have seen； that is one to be remembered。 Below lay a
bleached and bare sand…hill； with a few grey houses huddled in its
miserable shelter； and a heaped…up shore of grey sand； on which a
brown…grey sea was breaking with clash and boom in long； white；
ragged lines； with all beyond a confusion of surf； surge； and mist；
with driving brown clouds mingling sea and sky； and all between
showing only in glimpses amidst scuds of sand。
At a house in the scrub a number of men were drinking sake with
much uproar； and a superb…looking Aino came out； staggered a few
yards； and then fell backwards among the weeds； a picture of
debasement。 I forgot to tell you that before I left Biratori； I
inveighed to the assembled Ainos against the practice and
consequences of sake…drinking； and was met with the reply； 〃We must
drink to the gods； or we shall die；〃 but Pipichari said； 〃You say
that which is good；