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frolic of pulling； they attached the kuruma by ropes to the horse；
which one of them rode at a 〃scramble；〃 while the other merely ran
in the shafts to keep them level。 This is an excellent plan。
Horobets is a fishing station of antique and decayed aspect； with
eighteen Japanese and forty…seven Aino houses。 The latter are much
larger than at Shiraoi； and their very steep roofs are beautifully
constructed。 It was a miserable day； with fog concealing the
mountains and lying heavily on the sea； but as no one expected rain
I sent the kuruma back to Mororan and secured horses。 On principle
I always go to the corral myself to choose animals； if possible；
without sore backs； but the choice is often between one with a mere
raw and others which have holes in their backs into which I could
put my hand； or altogether uncovered spines。 The practice does no
immediate good； but by showing the Japanese that foreign opinion
condemns these cruelties an amendment may eventually be brought
about。 At Horobets； among twenty horses； there was not one that I
would take；I should like to have had them all shot。 They are
cheap and abundant； and are of no account。 They drove a number
more down from the hills； and I chose the largest and finest horse
I have seen in Japan； with some spirit and action； but I soon found
that he had tender feet。 We shortly left the high…road； and in
torrents of rain turned off on 〃unbeaten tracks；〃 which led us
through a very bad swamp and some much swollen and very rough
rivers into the mountains； where we followed a worn…out track for
eight miles。 It was literally 〃FOUL weather；〃 dark and still； with
a brown mist； and rain falling in sheets。 I threw my paper
waterproof away as useless； my clothes were of course soaked； and
it was with much difficulty that I kept my shomon and paper money
from being reduced to pulp。 Typhoons are not known so far north as
Yezo； but it was what they call a 〃typhoon rain〃 without the
typhoon； and in no time it turned the streams into torrents barely
fordable； and tore up such of a road as there is； which at its best
is a mere water…channel。 Torrents； bringing tolerable…sized
stones； tore down the track； and when the horses had been struck
two or three times by these； it was with difficulty that they could
be induced to face the rushing water。 Constantly in a pass； the
water had gradually cut a track several feet deep between steep
banks； and the only possible walking place was a stony gash not
wide enough for the two feet of a horse alongside of each other；
down which water and stones were rushing from behind； with all
manner of trailers matted overhead； and between avoiding being
strangled and attempting to keep a tender…footed horse on his legs；
the ride was a very severe one。 The poor animal fell five times
from stepping on stones； and in one of his falls twisted my left
wrist badly。 I thought of the many people who envied me my tour in
Japan； and wondered whether they would envy me that ride！
After this had gone on for four hours； the track； with a sudden dip
over a hillside； came down on Old Mororan； a village of thirty Aino
and nine Japanese houses； very unpromising…looking； although
exquisitely situated on the rim of a lovely cove。 The Aino huts
were small and poor； with an unusual number of bear skulls on
poles； and the village consisted mainly of two long dilapidated
buildings； in which a number of men were mending nets。 It looked a
decaying place； of low； mean lives。 But at a 〃merchant's〃 there
was one delightful room with two translucent sidesone opening on
the village； the other looking to the sea down a short； steep
slope； on which is a quaint little garden； with dwarfed fir…trees
in pots； a few balsams； and a red cabbage grown with much pride as
a 〃foliage plant。〃
It is nearly midnight； but my bed and bedding are so wet that I am
still sitting up and drying them； patch by patch； with tedious
slowness； on a wooden frame placed over a charcoal brazier； which
has given my room the dryness and warmth which are needed when a
person has been for many hours in soaked clothing； and has nothing
really dry to put on。 Ito bought a chicken for my supper； but when
he was going to kill it an hour later its owner in much grief
returned the money； saying she had brought it up and could not bear
to see it killed。 This is a wild； outlandish place； but an
intuition tells me that it is beautiful。 The ocean at present is
thundering up the beach with the sullen force of a heavy ground…
swell； and the rain is still falling in torrents。
I。 L。 B。
LETTER XL
〃More than Peace〃Geographical DifficultiesUsu…takiSwimming
the OsharuA Dream of BeautyA Sunset EffectA Nocturnal Alarm
The Coast Ainos。
LEBUNGE； VOLCANO BAY； YEZO；
September 6。
〃Weary wave and dying blast
Sob and moan along the shore；
All is peace at last。〃
And more than peace。 It was a heavenly morning。 The deep blue sky
was perfectly unclouded； a blue sea with diamond flash and a 〃many…
twinkling smile〃 rippled gently on the golden sands of the lovely
little bay； and opposite； forty miles away； the pink summit of the
volcano of Komono…taki； forming the south…western point of Volcano
Bay； rose into a softening veil of tender blue haze。 There was a
balmy breeziness in the air； and tawny tints upon the hill； patches
of gold in the woods； and a scarlet spray here and there heralded
the glories of the advancing autumn。 As the day began； so it
closed。 I should like to have detained each hour as it passed。 It
was thorough enjoyment。 I visited a good many of the Mororan
Ainos； saw their well…grown bear in its cage； and； tearing myself
away with difficulty at noon； crossed a steep hill and a wood of
scrub oak； and then followed a trail which runs on the amber sands
close to the sea； crosses several small streams； and passes the
lonely Aino village of Maripu； the ocean always on the left and
wooded ranges on the right； and in front an apparent bar to farther
progress in the volcano of Usu…taki； an imposing mountain； rising
abruptly to a height of nearly 3000 feet； I should think。
In Yezo； as on the main island； one can learn very little about any
prospective route。 Usually when one makes an inquiry a Japanese
puts on a stupid look； giggles； tucks his thumbs into his girdle；
hitches up his garments； and either professes perfect ignorance or
gives one some vague second…hand information； though it is quite
possible that he may have been over every foot of the ground
himself more than once。 Whether suspicion of your motives in
asking； or a fear of compromising himself by answering； is at the
bottom of this I don't know； but it is most exasperating to a
traveller。 In Hakodate I failed to see Captain Blakiston； who has
walked round the whole Yezo sea…board； and all I was able to learn
regarding this route was that the coast was thinly peopled by
Ainos； that there were Government horses which could be got； and
that one could sleep where one got them； that rice and salt fish
were the only food； that there were many 〃bad rivers；〃 and that the
road went over 〃bad mountains；〃 that the only people who wen