按键盘上方向键 ← 或 → 可快速上下翻页，按键盘上的 Enter 键可回到本书目录页，按键盘上方向键 ↑ 可回到本页顶部！
————未阅读完？加入书签已便下次继续阅读！
were quite beyond his prowess。 He made much vainglorious boast about
his weapon at the outset of the journey； though； to the discredit of
his generalship； it was suffered to hang unloaded behind his saddle。
According to our stipulations； the man from whom we hired the horses
was to be at the expense of their feed and stabling on the journey； as
well as of the maintenance of our Biscayan squire； who of course was
provided with funds for the purpose； we took care； however； to give
the latter a private hint； that； though we made a close bargain with
his master； it was all in his favor； as； if he proved a good man and
true； both he and the horses should live at our cost； and the money
provided for their maintenance remain in his pocket。 This unexpected
largess； with the occasional present of a cigar； won his heart
completely。 He was； in truth； a faithful； cheery； kind…hearted
creature； as full of saws and proverbs as that miracle of squires； the
renowned Sancho himself； whose name； by the by； we bestowed upon
him； and like a true Spaniard； though treated by us with companionable
familiarity； he never for a moment； in his utmost hilarity；
overstepped the bounds of respectful decorum。
Such were our minor preparations for the journey； but above all we
laid in an ample stock of good humor； and a genuine disposition to
be pleased； determining to travel in true contrabandista style； taking
things as we found them； rough or smooth； and mingling with all
classes and conditions in a kind of vagabond companionship。 It is
the true way to travel in Spain。 With such disposition and
determination； what a country is it for a traveller； where the most
miserable inn is as full of adventure as an enchanted castle； and
every meal is in itself an achievement！ Let others repine at the
lack of turnpike roads and sumptuous hotels； and all the elaborate
comforts of a country cultivated and civilized into tameness and
commonplace； but give me the rude mountain scramble； the roving；
haphazard； wayfaring； the half wild； yet frank and hospitable manners；
which impart such a true game flavor to dear old romantic Spain！
Thus equipped and attended； we cantered out of 〃Fair Seville city〃
at half…past six in the morning of a bright May day； in company with a
lady and gentleman of our acquaintance； who rode a few miles with
us； in the Spanish mode of taking leave。 Our route lay through old
Alcala de Guadaira （Alcala on the river Aira）； the benefactress of
Seville； that supplies it with bread and water。 Here live the bakers
who furnish Seville with that delicious bread for which it is
renowned； here are fabricated those roscas well known by the
well…merited appellation of pan de Dios （bread of God）； with which； by
the way； we ordered our man； Sancho； to stock his alforjas for the
journey。 Well has this beneficent little city been denominated the
〃Oven of Seville〃； well has it been called Alcala de los Panaderos
（Alcala of the bakers）； for a great part of its inhabitants are of
that handicraft； and the highway hence to Seville is constantly
traversed by lines of mules and donkeys laden with great panniers of
loaves and roscas。
I have said Alcala supplies Seville with water。 Here are great tanks
or reservoirs； of Roman and Moorish construction； whence water is
conveyed to Seville by noble aqueducts。 The springs of Alcala are
almost as much vaunted as its ovens； and to the lightness；
sweetness； and purity of its water is attributed in some measure the
delicacy of its bread。
Here we halted for a time； at the ruins of the old Moorish castle； a
favorite resort for picnic parties from Seville； where we had passed
many a pleasant hour。 The walls are of great extent； pierced with
loopholes； inclosing a huge square tower or keep； with the remains
of masmoras； or subterranean granaries。 The Guadaira winds its
stream round the hill； at the foot of these ruins； whimpering among
reeds； rushes； and pond…lilies； and overhung with rhododendron；
eglantine； yellow myrtle； and a profusion of wild flowers and aromatic
shrubs； while along its banks are groves of oranges； citrons； and
pomegranates； among which we heard the early note of the nightingale。
A picturesque bridge was thrown across the little river； at one
end of which was the ancient Moorish mill of the castle； defended by a
tower of yellow stone； a fisherman's net hung against the wall to dry；
and hard by in the river was his boat； a group of peasant women in
bright…colored dresses； crossing the arched bridge； were reflected
in the placid stream。 Altogether it was an admirable scene for a
landscape painter。
The old Moorish mills； so often found on secluded streams； are
characteristic objects in Spanish landscape； and suggestive of the
perilous times of old。 They are of stone； and often in the form of
towers with loopholes and battlements； capable of defence in those
warlike days when the country on both sides of the border was
subject to sudden inroad and hasty ravage； and when men had to labor
with their weapons at hand； and some place of temporary refuge。
Our next halting place was at Gandul； where were the remains of
another Moorish castle； with its ruined tower； a nestling place for
storks； and commanding a view over a vast campina or fertile plain；
with the mountains of Ronda in the distance。 These castles were
strong…holds to protect the plains from the talas or forays to which
they were subject； when the fields of corn would be laid waste； the
flocks and herds swept from the vast pastures； and； together with
captive peasantry； hurried off in long cavalgadas across the borders。
At Gandul we found a tolerable posada； the good folks could not tell
us what time of day it was… the clock only struck once in the day； two
hours after noon； until that time it was guesswork。 We guessed it
was full time to eat； so； alighting； we ordered a repast。 While that
was in preparation we visited the palace once the residence of the
Marquis of Gandul。 All was gone to decay； there were but two or
three rooms habitable； and very poorly furnished。 Yet here were the
remains of grandeur： a terrace； where fair dames and gentle
cavaliers may once have walked； a fish…pond and ruined garden； with
grape…vines and date…bearing palm…trees。 Here we were joined by a
fat curate； who gathered a bouquet of roses and presented it； very
gallantly； to the lady who accompanied us。
Below the palace was the mill； with orange…trees and aloes in front；
and a pretty stream of pure water。 We took a seat in the shade； and
the millers； all leaving their work； sat down and smoked with us；
for the Andalusians are always ready for a gossip。 They were waiting
for the regular visit of the barber； who came once a week to put all
their chins in order。 He arrived shortly afterwards： a lad of
seventeen； mounted on a donkey； eager to display his new alforjas or
saddle…bags； just bought at a fair； price one dollar； to be paid on
St。 John's day （in J