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piqued to match with one equally marvellous about Antiquera。 There was
once a fountain； he said； in one of the public squares called IL
fuente del toro； the fountain of the bull； because the water gushed
from the mouth of a bull's head； carved of stone。 Underneath the
head was inscribed：
EN FRENTE DEL TORO
SE HALLEN TESORO。
（In front of the bull there is treasure。） Many digged in front of
the fountain； but lost their labor and found no money。 At last one
knowing fellow construed the motto a different way。 It is in the
forehead （frente） of the bull that the treasure is to be found； said
he to himself； and I am the man to find it。 Accordingly he came late
at night； with a mallet； and knocked the head to pieces； and what do
you think he found？
〃Plenty of gold and diamonds！〃 cried Sancho eagerly。
〃He found nothing；〃 rejoined mine host dryly； 〃and he ruined the
fountain。〃
Here a great laugh was set up by the landlord's hangers…on； who
considered Sancho completely taken in by what I presume was one of
mine host's standing jokes。
Leaving Antiquera at eight O'clock； we had a delightful ride along
the little river； and by gardens and orchards； fragrant with the odors
of spring and vocal with the nightingale。 Our road passed round the
Rock of the Lovers （el Penon de los Enamorados）； which rose in a
precipice above us。 In the course of the morning we passed through
Archidona； situated in the breast of a high hill； with a three…pointed
mountain towering above it； and the ruins of a Moorish fortress。 It
was a great toil to ascend a steep stony street leading up into the
city； although it bore the encouraging name of Calle Real del Llano
（the Royal Street of the Plain）； but it was still a greater toil to
descend from this mountain city on the other side。
At noon we halted in sight of Archidona； in a pleasant little meadow
among hills covered with olive…trees。 Our cloaks were spread on the
grass； under an elm by the side of a bubbling rivulet； our horses were
tethered where they might crop the herbage； and Sancho was told to
produce his alforjas。 He had been unusually silent this morning ever
since the laugh raised at his expense； but now his countenance
brightened； and he produced his alforjas with an air of triumph。
They contained the contributions of four days' journeying； but had
been signally enriched by the foraging of the previous evening in
the plenteous inn at Antiquera； and this seemed to furnish him with
a set…off to the banter of mine host。
EN FRENTE DEL TORO
SE HALLEN TESORO
would he exclaim； with a chuckling laugh； as he drew forth the
heterogeneous contents one by one； in a series which seemed to have no
end。 First came forth a shoulder of roasted kid； very little the worse
for wear； then an entire partridge； then a great morsel of salted
codfish wrapped in paper； then the residue of a ham； then the half
of a pullet； together with several rolls of bread； and a rabble rout
of oranges； figs； raisins； and walnuts。 His bota also had been
recruited with some excellent wine of Malaga。 At every fresh
apparition from his larder； he would enjoy our ludicrous surprise；
throwing himself back on the grass； shouting with laughter； and
exclaiming 〃Frente del toro！… frente del toro！ Ah； senores； they
thought Sancho a simpleton at Antiquera； but Sancho knew where to find
the tesoro。〃
While we were diverting ourselves with his simple drollery； a
solitary beggar approached； who had almost the look of a pilgrim。 He
had a venerable gray beard； and was evidently very old； supporting
himself on a staff； yet age had not bowed him down； he was tall and
erect； and had the wreck of a fine form。 He wore a round Andalusian
hat； a sheep…skin jacket； and leathern breeches； gaiters； and sandals。
His dress； though old and patched； was decent； his demeanor manly； and
he addressed us with the grave courtesy that is to be remarked in
the lowest Spaniard。 We were in a favorable mood for such a visitor；
and in a freak of capricious charity gave him some silver； a loaf of
fine wheaten bread； and a goblet of our choice wine of Malaga。 He
received them thankfully； but without any grovelling tribute of
gratitude。 Tasting the wine； he held it up to the light； with a slight
beam of surprise in his eye； then quaffing it off at a draught； 〃It is
many years；〃 said he； 〃since I have tasted such wine。 It is a
cordial to an old man's heart。〃 Then； looking at the beautiful wheaten
loaf； 〃Bendito sea tal pan！〃 〃Blessed be such bread！〃 So saying； he
put it in his wallet。 We urged him to eat it on the spot。 〃No；
senores；〃 replied he； 〃the wine I had either to drink or leave； but
the bread I may take home to share with my family。〃
Our man Sancho sought our eye； and reading permission there； gave
the old man some of the ample fragments of our repast； on condition；
however； that he should sit down and make a meal。
He accordingly took his seat at some little distance from us； and
began to eat slowly； and with a sobriety and decorum that would have
become a hidalgo。 There was altogether a measured manner and a quiet
self…possession about the old man； that made me think that he had seen
better days； his language too； though simple； had occasionally
something picturesque and almost poetical in the phraseology。 I set
him down for some broken…down cavalier。 I was mistaken； it was nothing
but the innate courtesy of a Spaniard； and the poetical turn of
thought and language often to be found in the lowest classes of this
clear…witted people。 For fifty years； he told us； he had been a
shepherd； but now he was out of employ and destitute。 〃When I was a
young man；〃 said he； 〃nothing could harm or trouble me； I was always
well； always gay； but now I am seventy…nine years of age； and a
beggar； and my heart begins to fail me。〃
Still he was not a regular mendicant： it was not until recently that
want had driven him to this degradation； and he gave a touching
picture of the struggle between hunger and pride； when abject
destitution first came upon him。 He was returning from Malaga
without money； he had not tasted food for some time； and was
crossing one of the great plains of Spain； where there were but few
habitations。 When almost dead with hunger； he applied at the door of a
venta or country inn。 〃Perdon usted por Dios； hermano！〃 （〃Excuse us；
brother； for God's sake！〃） was the reply… the usual mode in Spain of
refusing a beggar。
〃I turned away；〃 said he； 〃with shame greater than my hunger； for my
heart was yet too proud。 I came to a river with high banks； and
deep； rapid current； and felt tempted to throw myself in： 'What should
such an old； worthless； wretched man as I live for？' But when I was on
the brink of the current； I thought on the blessed Virgin； and
turned away。 I travelled on until I saw a country…seat at a little
distance from the road； and e