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of Tia Antonia （Aunt Antonia）； who maintained the Moorish halls and
gardens in order and showed them to strangers。 While we were
talking； the door was opened by a plump little black…eyed Andalusian
damsel； whom Mateo addressed as Dolores； but who from her bright looks
and cheerful disposition evidently merited a merrier name。 Mateo
informed me in a whisper that she was the niece of Tia Antonia； and
I found she was the good fairy who was to conduct us through the
enchanted palace。 Under her guidance we crossed the threshold； and
were at once transported； as if by magic wand； into other times and an
oriental realm； and were treading the scenes of Arabian story。 Nothing
could be in greater contrast than the unpromising exterior of the pile
with the scene now before us。
We found ourselves in a vast patio or court one hundred and fifty
feet in length； and upwards of eighty feet in breadth； paved with
white marble； and decorated at each end with light Moorish peristyles；
one of which supported an elegant gallery of fretted architecture。
Along the mouldings of the cornices and on various parts of the
walls were escutcheons and ciphers； and cufic and Arabic characters in
high relief； repeating the pious mottoes of the Moslem monarchs； the
builders of the Alhambra； or extolling their grandeur and munificence。
Along the centre of the court extended an immense basin or tank
（estanque） a hundred and twenty…four feet in length； twenty…seven in
breadth； and five in depth； receiving its water from two marble vases。
Hence it is called the Court of the Alberca （from al Beerkah； the
Arabic for a pond or tank）。 Great numbers of gold…fish were to be seen
gleaming through the waters of the basin； and it was bordered by
hedges of roses。
Passing from the Court of the Alberca under a Moorish archway； we
entered the renowned Court of Lions。 No part of the edifice gives a
more complete idea of its original beauty than this； for none has
suffered so little from the ravages of time。 In the centre stands
the fountain famous in song and story。 The alabaster basins still shed
their diamond drops； the twelve lions which support them； and give the
court its name； still cast forth crystal streams as in the days of
Boabdil。 The lions； however； are unworthy of their fame； being of
miserable sculpture； the work probably of some Christian captive。
The court is laid out in flower…beds； instead of its ancient and
appropriate pavement of tiles or marble； the alteration； an instance
of bad taste； was made by the French when in possession of Granada。
Round the four sides of the court are light Arabian arcades of open
filigree work supported by slender pillars of white marble； which it
is supposed were originally gilded。 The architecture； like that in
most parts of the interior of the palace； is characterized by
elegance； rather than grandeur； bespeaking a delicate and graceful
taste； and a disposition to indolent enjoyment。 When one looks upon
the fairy traces of the peristyles； and the apparently fragile
fretwork of the walls； it is difficult to believe that so much has
survived the wear and tear of centuries； the shocks of earthquakes；
the violence of war； and the quiet； though no less baneful； pilferings
of the tasteful traveller； it is almost sufficient to excuse the
popular tradition that the whole is protected by a magic charm。
On one side of the court a rich portal opens into the Hall of the
Abencerrages； so called from the gallant cavaliers of that illustrious
line who were here perfidiously massacred。 There are some who doubt
the whole story； but our humble cicerone Mateo pointed out the very
wicket of the portal through which they were introduced one by one
into the Court of Lions； and the white marble fountain in the centre
of the hall beside which they were beheaded。 He showed us also certain
broad ruddy stains on the pavement； traces of their blood； which；
according to popular belief； can never be effaced。
Finding we listened to him apparently with easy faith； he added；
that there was often heard at night； in the Court of Lions； a low
confused sound； resembling the murmuring of a multitude； and now and
then a faint tinkling； like the distant clank of chains。 These
sounds were made by the spirits of the murdered Abencerrages； who
nightly haunt the scene of their suffering and invoke the vengeance of
Heaven on their destroyer。
The sounds in question had no doubt been produced； as I had
afterwards an opportunity of ascertaining； by the bubbling currents
and tinkling falls of water conducted under the pavement through pipes
and channels to supply the fountains； but I was too considerate to
intimate such an idea to the humble chronicler of the Alhambra。
Encouraged by my easy credulity； Mateo gave me the following as an
undoubted fact； which he had from his grandfather：
There was once an invalid soldier； who had charge of the Alhambra to
show it to strangers： as he was one evening； about twilight； passing
through the Court of Lions； he heard footsteps on the Hall of the
Abencerrages； supposing some strangers to be lingering there； he
advanced to attend upon them； when to his astonishment he beheld
four Moors richly dressed； with gilded cuirasses and cimeters； and
poniards glittering with precious stones。 They were walking to and
fro； with solemn pace； but paused and beckoned to him。 The old
soldier； however； took to flight； and could never afterwards be
prevailed upon to enter the Alhambra。 Thus it is that men sometimes
turn their backs upon fortune； for it is the firm opinion of Mateo；
that the Moors intended to reveal the place where their treasures
lay buried。 A successor to the invalid soldier was more knowing； he
came to the Alhambra poor； but at the end of a year went off to
Malaga； bought houses； set up a carriage； and still lives there one of
the richest as well as oldest men of the place； all which； Mateo
sagely surmised； was in consequence of his finding out the golden
secret of these phantom Moors。
I now perceived I had made an invaluable acquaintance in this son of
the Alhambra； one who knew all the apocryphal history of the place；
and firmly believed in it； and whose memory was stuffed with a kind of
knowledge for which I have a lurking fancy； but which is too apt to be
considered rubbish by less indulgent philosophers。 I determined to
cultivate the acquaintance of this learned Theban。
Immediately opposite the Hall of the Abencerrages a portal； richly
adorned； leads into a hall of less tragical associations。 It is
light and lofty； exquisitely graceful in its architecture； paved
with white marble； and bears the suggestive name of the Hall of the
Two Sisters。 Some destroy the romance of the name by attributing it to
two enormous slabs of alabaster which lie side by side； and form a
great part of the pavement； an opinion strongly supported by Mateo
Ximenes。 Others are disposed to give the name a more poetical
significance； a