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Like her classic prototype; Paris is also the companion of the philosophers and leads the arts in her train。 Her palaces are the meeting…places of the poets; the sculptors; the dramatists; and the painters; who are never weary of celebrating her perfections; nor of working for her adornment and amusement。
Those who live in the circle of her influence are caught up in a whirlwind of artistic production; and consume their brains and bodies in the vain hope of pleasing their idol and attracting her attention。 To be loved by Paris is an ordeal that few natures can stand; for she wrings the lifeblood from her devotees and then casts them aside into oblivion。 Paris; said one of her greatest writers; 〃AIME A BRISER SES IDOLES!〃 As Ulysses and his companions fell; in other days; a prey to the allurements of Circe; so our powerful young nation has fallen more than any other under the influence of the French siren; and brings her a yearly tribute of gold which she receives with avidity; although in her heart there is little fondness for the giver。
Americans who were in Paris two years ago had an excellent opportunity of judging the sincerity of Parisian affection; and of sounding the depth and unselfishness of the love that this fickle city gives us in return for our homage。 Not for one moment did she hesitate; but threw the whole weight of her influence and wit into the scale for Spain。 If there is not at this moment a European alliance against America it is not from any lack of effort on her part towards that end。
The stand taken by LA VILLA LUMIERE in that crisis caused many naive Americans; who believed that their weakness for the French capital was returned; a painful surprise。 They imagined in the simplicity of their innocent hearts that she loved them for themselves; and have awakened; like other rich lovers; to the humiliating knowledge that a penniless neighbor was receiving the caresses that Croesus paid for。 Not only did the entire Parisian press teem at that moment with covert insults directed towards us; but in society; at the clubs and tables of the aristocracy; it was impossible for an American to appear with self…respect; so persistently were our actions and our reasons for undertaking that war misunderstood and misrepresented。 In the conversation of the salons and in the daily papers it was assumed that the Spanish were a race of noble patriots; fighting in the defence of a loved and loyal colony; while we were a horde of blatant cowards; who had long fermented a revolution in Cuba in order to appropriate that coveted island。
When the Spanish authorities allowed an American ship (surprised in one of her ports by the declaration of war) to depart unharmed; the fact was magnified into an act of almost ideal generosity; on the other hand; when we decided not to permit privateering; that announcement was received with derisive laughter as a pretentious pose to cover hidden interests。 There is reason to believe; however; that this feeling in favor of Spain goes little further than the press and the aristocratic circles so dear to the American 〃climber〃; the real heart of the French nation is as true to us as when a century ago she spent blood and treasure in our cause。 It is the inconstant capital alone that; false to her role of liberator; has sided with the tyrant。
Yet when I wander through her shady parks or lean over her monumental quays; drinking in the beauty of the first spring days; intoxicated by the perfume of the flowers that the night showers have kissed into bloom; or linger of an evening over my coffee; with the brilliant life of the boulevards passing like a carnival procession before my eyes; when I sit in her theatres; enthralled by the genius of her actors and playwrights; or stand bewildered before the ten thousand paintings and statues of the Salon; I feel inclined; like a betrayed lover; to pardon my faithless mistress: she is too lovely to remain long angry with her。 You realize she is false and will betray you again; laughing at you; insulting your weakness; but when she smiles all faults are forgotten; the ardor of her kisses blinds you to her inconstancy; she pours out a draught that no other hands can brew; and clasps you in arms so fair that life outside those fragile barriers seems stale and unprofitable。
Chapter 32 … A Nation in a Hurry
IN early days of steam navigation on the Mississippi; the river captains; it is said; had the playful habit; when pressed for time or enjoying a 〃spurt〃 with a rival; of running their engines with a darky seated on the safety…valve。
One's first home impression after a season of lazy Continental travelling and visiting in somnolent English country houses; is that an emblematical Ethiopian should be quartered on our national arms。
Zola tells us in NOUVELLE CAMPAGNE that his vivid impressions are all received during the first twenty…four hours in a new surrounding; … the mind; like a photographic film; quickly losing its sensibility。
This fleeting receptiveness makes returning Americans painfully conscious of nerves in the home atmosphere; and the headlong pace at which our compatriots are living。
The habit of laying such faults to the climate is but a poor excuse。 Our grandparents and their parents lived peaceful lives beneath these same skies; undisturbed by the morbid influences that are supposed to key us to such a painful concert pitch。
There was an Indian summer languor in the air as we steamed up the bay last October; that apparently invited repose; yet no sooner had we set foot on our native dock; and taken one good whiff of home air; than all our acquired calm disappeared。 People who ten days before would have sat (at a journey's end) contentedly in a waiting…room; while their luggage was being sorted by leisurely officials; now hustle nervously about; nagging the custom…house officers and egging on the porters; as though the saving of the next half hour were the prime object of existence。
Considering how extravagant we Americans are in other ways it seems curious that we should be so economical of time! It was useless to struggle against the current; however; or to attempt to hold one's self back。 Before ten minutes on shore had passed; the old; familiar; unpleasant sensation of being in a hurry took possession of me! It was irresistible and all…pervading; from the movements of the crowds in the streets to the whistle of the harbor tugs; everything breathed of haste。 The very dogs had apparently no time to loiter; but scurried about as though late for their engagements。
The transit from dock to hotel was like a visit to a new circle in the INFERNO; where trains rumble eternally overhead; and cable cars glide and block around a pale…faced throng of the damned; who are forced; in expiation of their sins; to hasten forever toward an unreachable goal。
A curious curse has fallen upon our people; an 〃influence〃 is at work which forces us to attempt in an hour just twice as much as can be accomplished in sixty minutes。 〃Do as well as you can;〃 whispers the 〃influence;〃 〃but do it quickly!