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the ways of men-第6章

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 so archaic as a button…hole is  employed at the present time by our patent…ridden compatriots。   The shirt; for instance; which was formerly such a simple… minded and straightforward garment; knowing no guile; has  become; in the hands of the inventors; a mere pretence; a  frail scaffold; on which an elaborate superstructure of shams  is erected。

The varieties of this garment that one sees in the shop  windows; exposing virgin bosoms to the day; are not what they  seem!  Those very bosoms are fakes; and cannot open; being  instead pierced by eyelets; into which bogus studs are fixed  by machinery。  The owner is obliged to enter into those  deceptive garments surreptitiously from the rear; by  stratagem; as it were。  Why all this trouble; one asks; for no  apparent reason; except that old…fashioned shirts opened in  front; and no Yankee will wear a non…patented garment … if he  can help it?

There was not a single accessory to the toilet in that car  which behaved in a normal way。  Buttons mostly backed into  place; tail…end foremost (like horses getting between shafts);  where some hidden mechanism screwed or clinched them to their  moorings。

Collars and cuffs (integral parts of the primitive garment)  are now a labyrinth; in which all but the initiated must lose  themselves; being double…decked; detachable; reversible; and  made of every known substance except linen。  The cuff most in  favor can be worn four different ways; and is attached to the  shirt by a steel instrument three inches long; with a nipper  at each end。  The amount of white visible below the coat… sleeve is regulated by another contrivance; mostly of elastic;  worn further up the arm; around the biceps。  Modern collars  are retained in position by a system of screws and levers。   Socks are attached no longer with the old…fashioned garter;  but by aid of a little harness similar to that worn by pug… dogs。

One traveller; after lacing his shoes; adjusted a contrivance  resembling a black beetle on the knot to prevent its untying。   He also wore 〃hygienic suspenders;〃 a discovery of great  importance (over three thousand patents have been taken out  for this one necessity of the toilet!)。  This brace performs  several tasks at the same time; such as holding unmentionable  garments in place; keeping the wearer erect; and providing a  night…key guard。  It is also said to cure liver and kidney  disease by means of an arrangement of pulleys which throw the  strain according to the wearer's position … I omit the rest of  its qualities!

The watches of my companions; I noticed with astonishment; all  wore India…rubber ruffs around their necks。  Here curiosity  getting the better of discretion; I asked what purpose that  invention served。  It was graciously explained to me how such  ruffs prevented theft。  They were so made that it was  impossible to draw your watch out of a pocket unless you knew  the trick; which struck me as a mitigated blessing。  In fact;  the idea kept occurring that life might become terribly  uncomfortable under these complex conditions for absent…minded  people。

Pencils; I find; are no longer put into pockets or slipped  behind the ear。  Every commercial 〃gent〃 wears a patent on his  chest; where his pen and pencil nestle in a coil of wire。   Eyeglasses are not allowed to dangle aimlessly about; as of  old; but retire with a snap into an oval box; after the  fashion of roller shades。  Scarf…pins have guards screwed on  from behind; and undergarments … but here modesty stops my  pen。

Seeing that I was interested in their make…up; several  travelling agents on the train got out their boxes and showed  me the latest artifices that could be attached to the person。   One gentleman produced a collection of rings made to go on the  finger with a spring; like bracelets; an arrangement; he  explained; that was particularly convenient for people  afflicted with enlarged joints!

Another tempted me with what he called a 〃literary shirt  front;〃 … it was in fact a paper pad; from which for  cleanliness a leaf could be peeled each morning; the 〃wrong〃  side of the sheet thus removed contained a calendar; much  useful information; and the chapters of a 〃continued〃 story;  which ended when the 〃dickey〃 was used up。

A third traveller was 〃pushing〃 a collar…button that plied as  many trades as Figaro; combining the functions of cravat… holder; stud; and scarf…pin。  Not being successful in selling  me one of these; he brought forward something 〃without which;〃  he assured me; 〃no gentleman's wardrobe was complete〃!  It  proved to be an insidious arrangement of gilt wire; which he  adjusted on his poor; overworked collar…button; and then tied  his cravat through and around it。  〃No tie thus made;〃 he  said; 〃would ever slip or get crooked。〃  He had been so civil  that it was embarrassing not to buy something of him; I  invested twenty…five cents in the cravat…holder; as it seemed  the least complicated of the patents on exhibition; not;  however; having graduated in a school of mechanics I have  never been able to make it work。  It takes an hour to tie a  cravat with its aid; and as long to get it untied。  Most of  the men in that car; I found; got around the difficulty by  wearing ready…made ties which fastened behind with a clasp。

It has been suggested that the reason our compatriots have  such a strained and anxious look is because they are all  trying to remember the numbers of their streets and houses;  the floor their office is on; and the combination of their  safes。  I am inclined to think that the hunted look we wear  comes from an awful fear of forgetting the secrets of our  patents and being unable to undo ourselves in an emergency!

Think for a moment of the horror of coming home tired and  sleepy after a convivial evening; and finding that some of  your hidden machinery had gone wrong; that by a sudden  movement you had disturbed the nice balance of some lever  which in revenge refused to release its prey!  The inventors  of one well…known cuff…holder claim that it had a 〃bull…dog  grip。〃  Think of sitting dressed all night in the embrace of  that mechanical canine until the inventor could be called in  to set you free!

I never doubted that bravery was the leading characteristic of  the American temperament; since that glimpse into the secret  composition of my compatriots; admiration has been vastly  increased。  The foolhardy daring it must require … dressed as  those men were … to go out in a thunder…storm makes one  shudder: it certainly could not be found in any other race。   The danger of cross…country hunting or bull…fighting is as  nothing compared to the risk a modern American takes when he  sits in a trolley…car; where the chances of his machinery  forming a fatal 〃short circuit〃 must be immense。  The utter  impossibility in which he finds himself of making a toilet  quickly on account of so many time…saving accessories must  increase his chances of getting 〃left〃 in an accident about  fifty per cent。  Who but one of our people could contemplate  with equanimity the thought of attempting the adjustment of  such delicate and difficult combinations while a steamer was  sinking and the life…boats being manned?

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