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I halted the old gentleman and hastened to explain that I was neither a pirate； a robber； nor an oppressor of the poor。 This as counter…check to his tendency to flee； leaving me in sole charge。 He understood a little Swahili； and talked a few words of something he intended for that language。 By means of our mutual accomplishment in that tongue； and through a more efficient sign language； I got him to understand the plan of campaign。 It was very simple。 I squatted down inside the rape； while he went around the other side to scare them up。
The white birds uttered their peculiarly derisive cackle at the old man and flapped over to my side。 Then they were certainly an astonished lot of birds。 I gave them both barrels and dropped a pair； got two more shots as they swung over me and dropped another pair； and brought down a straggling single as a grand finale。 The flock； with shrill； derogatory remarks； flew in an airline straight away。 They never deviated； as far as I could follow them with the eye。 Even after they had apparently disappeared； I could catch an occasional flash of white in the sun。
Now the old gentleman came whooping around with long； undignified bounds to fall on his face and seize my foot in an excess of gratitude。 He rose and capered about； he rushed out and gathered in the slain one by one and laid them in a pile at my feet。 Then he danced a jig…step around them and reviled them； and fell on his face once more； repeating the word 〃Bwana！ bwana！ bwana！〃 over and over…〃Master！ master！ master！〃 We returned to camp together； the old gentleman carrying the birds； and capering about like a small boy； pouring forth a flood of his sort of Swahili； of which I could understand only a word here and there。 Memba Sasa； very dignified and scornful of such performances； met us halfway and took my gun。 He seemed to be able to understand the old fellow's brand of Swahili； and said it over again in a brand I could understand。 From it I gathered that I was called a marvellously great sultan； a protector of the poor； and other Arabian Nights titles。
The birds proved to be white egrets。 Now at home I am strongly against the killing of these creatures； and have so expressed myself on many occasions。 But； looking from the beautiful white plumage of these villainous mauraders； to the wrinkled countenance of the grateful weary old savage； I could not fan a spark of regret。 And from the straight line of their retreating flight I like to think that the rest of the flock never came back； but took their toll from the wider fields of the plateau above。
Next day we reentered the game…haunted wilderness； nor did we see any more native villages until many weeks later we came into the country of the Wakamba。
XIX。 THE TANA RIVER
Our first sight of the Tana River was from the top of a bluff。 It flowed below us a hundred feet； bending at a sharp elbow against the cliff on which we stood。 Out of the jungle it crept sluggishly and into the jungle it crept again； brown； slow； viscid； suggestive of the fevers and the lurking beasts by which； indeed； it was haunted。 From our elevation we could follow its course by the jungle that grew along its banks。 At first this was intermittent； leaving thin or even open spaces at intervals； but lower down it extended away unbroken and very tall。 The trees were many of them beginning to come into flower。
Either side of the jungle were rolling hills。 Those to the left made up to the tremendous slopes of Kenia。 Those to the right ended finally in a low broken range many miles away called the Ithanga Hills。 The country gave one the impression of being clothed with small trees； although here and there this growth gave space to wide grassy plains。 Later we discovered that the forest was more apparent than real。 The small trees； even where continuous； were sparse enough to permit free walking in all directions； and open enough to allow clear sight for a hundred yards or so。 Furthermore； the shallow wide valleys between the hills were almost invariably treeless and grown to very high thick grass。
Thus the course of the Tana possessed advantages to such as we。 By following in general the course of the stream we were always certain of wood and water。 The river itself was full of fish…not to speak of hundreds of crocodiles and hippopotamuses。 The thick river jungle gave cover to such animals as the bushbuck； leopard； the beautiful colobus； some of the tiny antelope； waterbuck； buffalo and rhinoceros。 Among the thorn and acacia trees of the hillsides one was certain of impalla； eland； diks…diks； and giraffes。 In the grass bottoms were lions； rhinoceroses； a half dozen varieties of buck； and thousands and thousands of game birds such as guinea fowl and grouse。 On the plains fed zebra； hartebeeste； wart…hog； ostriches； and several species of the smaller antelope。 As a sportsman's paradise this region would be hard to beat。
We were now afoot。 The dreaded tsetse fly abounded here； and we had sent our horses in via Fort Hall。 F。 had accompanied them； and hoped to rejoin us in a few days or weeks with tougher and less valuable mules。 Pending his return we moved on leisurely； camping long at one spot； marching short days； searching the country far and near for the special trophies of which we stood in need。
It was great fun。 Generally we hunted each in his own direction and according to his own ideas。 The jungle along the river； while not the most prolific in trophies； was by all odds the most interesting。 It was very dense； very hot； and very shady。 Often a thorn thicket would fling itself from the hills right across to the water's edge； absolutely and hopelessly impenetrable save by way of the rhinoceros tracks。 Along these then we would slip； bent double； very quietly and gingerly； keeping a sharp lookout for the rightful owners of the trail。 Again we would wander among lofty trees through the tops of which the sun flickered on festooned serpentlike vines。 Every once in a while we managed a glimpse of the sullen oily river through the dense leaf screen on its banks。 The water looked thick as syrup； of a deadly menacing green。 Sometimes we saw a loathsome crocodile lying with his nose just out of water； or heard the snorting blow of a hippopotamus coming up for air。 Then the thicket forced us inland again。 We stepped very slowly； very alertly； our ears cocked for the faintest sound； our eyes roving。 Generally； of course； the creatures of the jungle saw us first。 We became aware of them by a crash or a rustling or a scamper。 Then we stood stock listening with all our ears for some sound distinguishing to the species。 Thus I came to recognize the queer barking note of the bushbuck； for example； and to realize how profane and vulgar that and the beautiful creature； the impalla； can be when he forgets himself。 As for the rhinoceros； he does not care how much noise he makes； nor how badly he scares you。
Personally； I liked very well to circle out in the more open country until about three o'clock； then to enter the river jungle and work my way slowly back toward camp。 At that time of day the shadows were lengthening； the birds and animals were beginning to stir about。 In the cooling nether world of sha