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ntal shrubs； a sundial； and lawns。 In the river bottom land below the bluff is a very extensive vegetable and fruit garden； with cornfields； and experimental plantings of rubber； and the like。 For the use of the people of Juja here are raised a great variety and abundance of vegetables； fruits； and grains。
Juja House； as has been said； stands back a hundred feet from a bend in the bluffs that permits a view straight up the river valley。 It is surrounded by gardens and trees； and occupies all one end of the enclosed rectangle。 Farther down and perched on the edge of a bluff； are several pretty little bungalows for the accommodation of the superintendent and his family； for the bachelors' mess； for the farm offices and dispensary； and for the dairy room； the ice…plant and the post…office and telegraph station。 Back of and inland from this row on the edge of the cliff； and scattered widely in open space； are a large store stocked with everything on earth； the Somali quarters of low whitewashed buildings； the cattle corrals； the stables； wild animal cages； granaries； blacksmith and carpenter shops； wagon sheds and the like。 Outside the enclosure； and a half mile away； are the conical grass huts that make up the native village。 Below the cliff is a concrete dam； an electric light plant； a pumping plant and a few details of the sort。
Such is a relief map of Juja proper。 Four miles away； and on another river； is Long Juja； a strictly utilitarian affair where grow ostriches； cattle； sheep； and various irrigated things in the bottom land。 All the rest of the farm； or estate； or whatever one would call it； is open plain； with here and there a river bottom； or a trifle of brush cover。 But never enough to constitute more than an isolated and lonesome patch。
Before leaving London we had received from McMillan earnest assurances that he kept open house； and that we must take advantage of his hospitality should we happen his way。 Therefore when one of his white…robed Somalis approached us to inquire respectfully as to what we wanted for dinner； we yielded weakly to the temptation and told him。 Then we marched us boldly to the house and took possession。
All around the house ran a veranda； shaded bamboo curtains and vines； furnished with the luxurious teakwood chairs of the tropics of which you can so extend the arms as to form two comfortable and elevated rests for your feet。 Horns of various animals ornamented the walls。 A megaphone and a huge terrestrial telescope on a tripod stood in one corner。 Through the latter one could examine at favourable times the herds of game on the plains。
And inside…mind you； we were fresh from three months in the wilderness…we found rugs； pictures； wall paper； a pianola； many books； baths； beautiful white bedrooms with snowy mosquito curtains； electric lights； running water； and above all an atmosphere of homelike comfort。 We fell into easy chairs； and seized books and magazines。 The Somalis brought us trays with iced and fizzy drinks in thin glasses。 When the time came we crossed the veranda in the rear to enter a spacious separate dining…room。 The table was white with napery； glittering with silver and glass； bright with flowers。 We ate leisurely of a well…served course dinner； ending with black coffee； shelled nuts； and candied fruit。 Replete and satisfied we strolled back across the veranda to the main house。 F。 raised his hand。
〃Hark！〃 he admonished us。
We held still。 From the velvet darkness came the hurried petulant barking of zebra； three hyenas howled。
XXVII。 A VISIT AT JUJA
Next day we left all this； and continued our march。 About a month later； however； we encountered McMillan himself in Nairobi。 I was just out from a very hard trip to the coast…Billy not with me…and wanted nothing so much as a few days' rest。 McMillan's cordiality was not to be denied； however； so the very next day found us tucking ourselves into a buckboard behind four white Abyssinian mules。 McMillan； some Somalis and Captain Duirs came along in another similar rig。 Our driver was a Hottentot half…caste from South Africa。 He had a flat face； a yellow skin； a quiet manner； and a competent hand。 His name was Michael。 At his feet crouched a small Kikuyu savage； in blanket ear ornaments and all the fixings； armed with a long lashed whip and raucous voice。 At any given moment he was likely to hop out over the moving wheel； run forward； bat the off leading mule； and hop back again； all with the most extraordinary agility。 He likewise hurled what sounded like very opprobrious epithets at such natives as did not get out the way quickly enough to suit him。 The expression of his face； which was that of a person steeped in woe； never changed。
We rattled out of Nairobi at a great pace； and swung into the Fort Hall Road。 This famous thoroughfare； one of the three or four made roads in all East Africa； is about sixty miles long。 It is a strategic necessity but is used by thousands of natives on their way to see the sights of the great metropolis。 As during the season there is no water for much of the distance； a great many pay for their curiosity with their lives。 The road skirts the base of the hills； winding in and out of shallow canyons and about the edges of rounded hills。 To the right one can see far out across the Athi Plains。
We met an almost unbroken succession of people。 There were long pack trains of women； quite cheerful； bent over under the weight of firewood or vegetables； many with babies tucked away in the folds of their garments； mincing dandified warriors with poodle…dog hair； skewers in their ears； their jewelery brought to a high polish a fatuous expression of self…satisfaction on their faces； carrying each a section of sugarcane which they now used as a staff but would later devour for lunch； bearers； under convoy of straight soldierly red…sashed Sudanese； transporting Government goods； wild…eyed staring shenzis from the forest； with matted hair and goatskin garments； looking ready to bolt aside at the slightest alarm； coveys of marvellous and giggling damsels； their fine…grained skin anointed and shining with red oil； strung with beads and shells； very coquettish and sure of their feminine charm； naked small boys marching solemnly like their elders； camel trains from far…off Abyssinia or Somaliland under convoy of white…clad turbaned grave men of beautiful features； donkey safaris in charge of dirty degenerate looking East Indians carrying trade goods to some distant post…all these and many more； going one way or the other； drew one side； at the sight of our white faces； to let us pass。
About two o'clock we suddenly turned off from the road； apparently quite at random； down the long grassy interminable incline that dipped slowly down and slowly up again over great distance to form the Athi Plains。 Along the road； with its endless swarm of humanity； we had seen no game； but after a half mile it began to appear。 We encountered herds of zebra； kongoni； wildebeeste； and 〃Tommies〃 standing about or grazing； sometimes almost within range from the moving buckboard。 After a time we made out the trees and water tower of Juja ahead； and by four o'clock had turned into the avenue of trees。 Our appr