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or the deep grumbling of lions； of cushioned luxurious chairs in reach of many books； but looking out on hills where the game herds feed； of comfortable beds with fine linen and soft blankets where one lies listening to the voices of an African night； or the weirder minor house noises whose origin and nature no man could guess； of tennis courts and summer houses； of lawns and hammocks； of sundials and clipped hedges separated only by a few strands of woven wire from fields identical with those in which roamed the cave men of the Pleistocene。 But to Billy was reserved the most ridiculous contrast of all。 Her bedroom opened to a veranda a few feet above a formal garden。 This was a very formal garden； with a sundial； gravelled walks； bordered flower beds； and clipped border hedges。 One night she heard a noise outside。 Slipping on a warm wrap and seizing her trusty revolver she stole out on the veranda to investigate。 She looked over the veranda rail。 There just below her； trampling the flower beds； tracking the gravel walks； endangering the sundial； stood a hippopotamus！
We had neighbours six or seven miles away。 At times they came down to spend the night and luxuriate in the comforts of civilization。 They were a Lady A。； and her nephew； and a young Scotch acquaintance the nephew had taken into partnership。 They had built themselves circular houses of papyrus reeds with conical thatched roofs and earth floors； had purchased ox teams and gathered a dozen or so Kikuyus； and were engaged in breaking a farm in the wilderness。 The life was rough and hard； and Lady A。 and her nephew gently bred； but they seemed to be having quite cheerfully the time of their lives。 The game furnished them meat； as it did all of us； and they hoped in time that their labours would make the land valuable and productive。 Fascinating as was the life； it was also one of many deprivations。 At Juja were a number of old copies of Life； the pretty girls in which so fascinated the young men that we broke the laws of propriety by presenting them； though they did not belong to us。 C。； the nephew； was of the finest type of young Englishman； clean cut； enthusiastic； good looking； with an air of engaging vitality and optimism。 His partner； of his own age； was an insufferable youth。 Brought up in some small Scottish valley； his outlook had never widened。 Because he wanted to buy four oxen at a cheaper price； he tried desperately to abrogate quarantine regulations。 If he had succeeded； he would have made a few rupees； but would have introduced disease in his neighbours' herds。 This consideration did not affect him。 He was much given to sneering at what he could not understand； and therefore； a great deal met with his disapproval。 His reading had evidently brought him down only to about the middle sixties； and affairs at that date were to him still burning questions。 Thus he would declaim vehemently over the Alabama claims。
〃I blush with shame；〃 he would cry； 〃when I think of England's attitude in that matter。〃
We pointed out that the dispute had been amicably settled by the best minds of the time； had passed between the covers of history； and had given way in immediate importance to several later topics。
〃This vacillating policy；〃 he swept on； 〃annoys me。 For my part； I should like to see so firm a stand taken on all questions that in any part of the world； whenever a man； and wherever a man； said 'I am an Englishman？ everybody else would draw back！'〃
He was an incredible person。 However； I was glad to see him； he and a few others of his kind have consoled me for a number of Americans I have met abroad。 Lady A。； with the tolerant philosophy of her class； seemed merely amused。 I have often since wondered how this ill…assorted partnership turned out。
Two other neighbours of ours dropped in once or twice…twenty…six miles on bicycles； on which they could ride only a portion of the distance。 They had some sort of a ranch up in the Ithanga Hills； and were two of the nicest fellows one would want to meet； brimful of energy； game for anything； and had so good a time always that the grumpiest fever could not prevent every one else having a good time too。 Once they rode on their bicycles forty miles to Nairobi； danced half the night at a Government House ball； rode back in the early morning； and did an afternoon's plowing！ They explained this feat by pointing out most convincingly that the ground was just right for plowing； but they did not want to miss the ball！
Occasionally a trim and dapper police official would drift in on horseback looking for native criminals； and once a safari came by。 Twelve miles away was the famous Kamiti Farm of Heatly； where Roosevelt killed his buffalo； and once or twice Heatly himself； a fine chap； came to see us。 Also just before I left with Duirs for a lion hunt on Kapiti； Lady Girouard； wife of the Governor； and her nephew and niece rode out for a hunt。 In the African fashion； all these people brought their own personal servants。 It makes entertaining easy。 Nobody knows where all these boys sleep； but they manage to tuck away somewhere； and always show up after a mysterious system of their own whenever there is anything to be done。
We stayed at Juja a little over three weeks。 Then most reluctantly said farewell and returned to Nairobi in preparation for a long trip to the south。
XXIX。 CHAPTER THE LAST
With our return from Juja to Nairobi for a breathing space； this volume comes to a logical conclusion。 In it I have tried to give a fairly comprehensive impression…it could hardly be a picture of so large a subject…of a portion of East Equatorial Africa； its animals； and its people。 Those who are sufficiently interested will have an opportunity in a succeeding volume of wandering with us even farther afield。 The low jungly coast region； the fierce desert of the Serengetti； the swift sullen rhinoceros…haunted stretches of the Tsavo； Nairobi； the strangest mixture of the twentieth centuries A。D。 and B。C。； Mombasa with its wild； barbaric passionate ebb and flow of life； of colour； of throbbing sound； the great lions of the Kapiti Plains； the Thirst of the Loieta； the Masai spearmen； the long chase for the greater kudu； the wonderful； high unknown country beyond the Narossara and other affairs will there be detailed。 If the reader of this volume happens to want more； there he will find it。
APPENDIX I
Most people are very much interested in how hot it gets in such tropics as we traversed。 Unfortunately it is very difficult to tell them。 Temperature tables have very little to do with the matter； for humidity varies greatly。 On the Serengetti at lower reaches of the Guaso Nyero I have seen it above 110 degrees。 It was hot； to be sure； but not exhaustingly so。 On the other hand； at 90 or 95 degrees the low coast belt I have had the sweat run from me literally in streams； so that a muddy spot formed wherever I stood still。 In the highlands； moreover； the nights were often extremely cold。 I have recorded night temperatures as low as 40 at 7000 feet of elevation； and noon temperatures as low 65。
Of more importance than the actual or sensible temperature of the air is the power of the sun's rays。 At all times of year