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15th … and how the rest is to be got； who knows？ He ordered a boat
a month since and yesterday we could see nothing of her but the
keel and about two planks。 I could multiply instances without end。
At first one goes nearly mad with vexation at these things； but one
finds so soon that they are the rule； that then it becomes
necessary to feign a rage one does not feel。 I look upon it as the
natural order of things； that if I order a thing； it will not be
done … if by accident it gets done； it will certainly be done
wrong： the only remedy being to watch the performance at every
stage。
'To…day was a grand field…day。 I had steam up and tried the engine
against pressure or resistance。 One part of the machinery is
driven by a belt or strap of leather。 I always had my doubts this
might slip； and so it did； wildly。 I had made provision for
doubling it； putting on two belts instead of one。 No use … off
they went； slipping round and off the pulleys instead of driving
the machinery。 Tighten them … no use。 More strength there … down
with the lever … smash something； tear the belts； but get them
tight … now then； stand clear； on with the steam； … and the belts
slip away as if nothing held them。 Men begin to look queer； the
circle of quidnuncs make sage remarks。 Once more … no use。 I
begin to know I ought to feel sheepish and beat； but somehow I feel
cocky instead。 I laugh and say； 〃Well； I am bound to break
something down〃 … and suddenly see。 〃Oho； there's the place； get
weight on there； and the belt won't slip。〃 With much labour； on go
the belts again。 〃Now then； a spar thro' there and six men's
weight on； mind you're not carried away。〃 … 〃Ay； ay； sir。〃 But
evidently no one believes in the plan。 〃Hurrah； round she goes …
stick to your spar。 All right； shut off steam。〃 And the
difficulty is vanquished。
'This or such as this （not always quite so bad） occurs hour after
hour； while five hundred tons of coal are rattling down into the
holds and bunkers； riveters are making their infernal row all
round； and riggers bend the sails and fit the rigging：… a sort of
Pandemonium； it appeared to young Mrs。 Newall； who was here on
Monday and half…choked with guano； but it suits the likes o' me。
'S。 S。 ELBA； River Mersey： May 17。
'We are delayed in the river by some of the ship's papers not being
ready。 Such a scene at the dock gates。 Not a sailor will join
till the last moment； and then； just as the ship forges ahead
through the narrow pass； beds and baggage fly on board； the men
half tipsy clutch at the rigging； the captain swears； the women
scream and sob； the crowd cheer and laugh； while one or two pretty
little girls stand still and cry outright； regardless of all eyes。
'These two days of comparative peace have quite set me on my legs
again。 I was getting worn and weary with anxiety and work。 As
usual I have been delighted with my shipwrights。 I gave them some
beer on Saturday； making a short oration。 To…day when they went
ashore and I came on board； they gave three cheers； whether for me
or the ship I hardly know； but I had just bid them good…bye； and
the ship was out of hail； but I was startled and hardly liked to
claim the compliment by acknowledging it。
'S。 S。 ELBA： May 25。
'My first intentions of a long journal have been fairly frustrated
by sea…sickness。 On Tuesday last about noon we started from the
Mersey in very dirty weather； and were hardly out of the river when
we met a gale from the south…west and a heavy sea； both right in
our teeth； and the poor ELBA had a sad shaking。 Had I not been
very sea…sick； the sight would have been exciting enough； as I sat
wrapped in my oilskins on the bridge； ＇but＇ in spite of all my
efforts to talk； to eat； and to grin； I soon collapsed into
imbecility； and I was heartily thankful towards evening to find
myself in bed。
'Next morning； I fancied it grew quieter and； as I listened； heard；
〃Let go the anchor；〃 whereon I concluded we had run into Holyhead
Harbour； as was indeed the case。 All that day we lay in Holyhead；
but I could neither read nor write nor draw。 The captain of
another steamer which had put in came on board； and we all went for
a walk on the hill； and in the evening there was an exchange of
presents。 We gave some tobacco I think； and received a cat； two
pounds of fresh butter； a Cumberland ham； WESTWARD HO！ and
Thackeray's ENGLISH HUMOURISTS。 I was astonished at receiving two
such fair books from the captain of a little coasting screw。 Our
captain said he ＇the captain of the screw＇ had plenty of money；
five or six hundred a year at least。 … 〃What in the world makes him
go rolling about in such a craft； then？〃 … 〃Why； I fancy he's
reckless； he's desperate in love with that girl I mentioned； and
she won't look at him。〃 Our honest； fat； old captain says this
very grimly in his thick； broad voice。
'My head won't stand much writing yet； so I will run up and take a
look at the blue night sky off the coast of Portugal。
'May 26。
'A nice lad of some two and twenty； A… by name； goes out in a
nondescript capacity as part purser； part telegraph clerk； part
generally useful person。 A… was a great comfort during the
miseries ＇of the gale＇； for when with a dead head wind and a heavy
sea； plates； books； papers； stomachs were being rolled about in sad
confusion； we generally managed to lie on our backs； and grin； and
try discordant staves of the FLOWERS OF THE FOREST and the LOW…
BACKED CAR。 We could sing and laugh； when we could do nothing
else； though A… was ready to swear after each fit was past； that
that was the first time he had felt anything； and at this moment
would declare in broad Scotch that he'd never been sick at all；
qualifying the oath with 〃except for a minute now and then。〃 He
brought a cornet…a…piston to practice on； having had three weeks'
instructions on that melodious instrument； and if you could hear
the horrid sounds that come！ especially at heavy rolls。 When I
hint he is not improving； there comes a confession： 〃I don't feel
quite right yet； you see！〃 But he blows away manfully； and in
self…defence I try to roar the tune louder。
'11：30 P。M。
'Long past Cape St。 Vincent now。 We went within about 400 yards of
the cliffs and light…house in a calm moonlight； with porpoises
springing from the sea； the men crooning long ballads as they lay
idle on the forecastle and the sails flapping uncertain on the
yards。 As we passed； there came a sudden breeze from land； hot and
heavy scented； and now as I write its warm rich flavour contrasts
strongly with the salt air we have been breathing。
'I paced the deck with H…； the second mate； and in the quiet night
drew a confession that he was engaged to be married； and gave him a
world of good advice。 He is a very nice； active； little fellow；