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greater undertakings。
'June …。
'We left Syra the morning after our arrival on Saturday the 4th。
This we did （first） because we were in a hurry to do something and
（second） because； coming from Alexandria； we had four days'
quarantine to perform。 We were all mustered along the side while
the doctor counted us； the letters were popped into a little tin
box and taken away to be smoked； the guardians put on board to see
that we held no communication with the shore … without them we
should still have had four more days' quarantine； and with twelve
Greek sailors besides； we started merrily enough picking up the
Canea cable。 。 。 。 To our utter dismay； the yarn covering began to
come up quite decayed； and the cable； which when laid should have
borne half a ton； was now in danger of snapping with a tenth part
of that strain。 We went as slow as possible in fear of a break at
every instant。 My watch was from eight to twelve in the morning；
and during that time we had barely secured three miles of cable。
Once it broke inside the ship； but I seized hold of it in time …
the weight being hardly anything … and the line for the nonce was
saved。 Regular nooses were then planted inboard with men to draw
them taut； should the cable break inboard。 A…； who should have
relieved me； was unwell； so I had to continue my look…out； and
about one o'clock the line again parted； but was again caught in
the last noose； with about four inches to spare。 Five minutes
afterwards it again parted and was yet once more caught。 Mr。
Liddell （whom I had called） could stand this no longer； so we
buoyed the line and ran into a bay in Siphano； waiting for calm
weather； though I was by no means of opinion that the slight sea
and wind had been the cause of our failures。 … All next day
（Monday） we lay off Siphano； amusing ourselves on shore with
fowling pieces and navy revolvers。 I need not say we killed
nothing； and luckily we did not wound any of ourselves。 A
guardiano accompanied us； his functions being limited to preventing
actual contact with the natives； for they might come as near and
talk as much as they pleased。 These isles of Greece are sad；
interesting places。 They are not really barren all over； but they
are quite destitute of verdure； and tufts of thyme； wild mastic or
mint； though they sound well； are not nearly so pretty as grass。
Many little churches； glittering white； dot the islands； most of
them； I believe； abandoned during the whole year with the exception
of one day sacred to their patron saint。 The villages are mean；
but the inhabitants do not look wretched and the men are good
sailors。 There is something in this Greek race yet； they will
become a powerful Levantine nation in the course of time。 … What a
lovely moonlight evening that was！ the barren island cutting the
clear sky with fantastic outline； marble cliffs on either hand
fairly gleaming over the calm sea。 Next day； the wind still
continuing； I proposed a boating excursion and decoyed A…； L…； and
S… into accompanying me。 We took the little gig； and sailed away
merrily enough round a point to a beautiful white bay； flanked with
two glistening little churches； fronted by beautiful distant
islands； when suddenly； to my horror； I discovered the ELBA
steaming full speed out from the island。 Of course we steered
after her； but the wind that instant ceased； and we were left in a
dead calm。 There was nothing for it but to unship the mast； get
out the oars and pull。 The ship was nearly certain to stop at the
buoy； and I wanted to learn how to take an oar； so here was a
chance with a vengeance！ L… steered； and we three pulled … a
broiling pull it was about half way across to Palikandro … still we
did come in； pulling an uncommon good stroke； and I had learned to
hang on my oar。 L… had pressed me to let him take my place； but
though I was very tired at the end of the first quarter of an hour；
and then every successive half hour； I would not give in。 I nearly
paid dear for my obstinacy； however； for in the evening I had
alternate fits of shivering and burning。'
III。
The next extracts； and I am sorry to say the last； are from
Fleeming's letters of 1860； when he was back at Bona and
Spartivento and for the first time at the head of an expedition。
Unhappily these letters are not only the last； but the series is
quite imperfect； and this is the more to be lamented as he had now
begun to use a pen more skilfully； and in the following notes there
is at times a touch of real distinction in the manner。
'Cagliari： October 5； 1860。
'All Tuesday I spent examining what was on board the ELBA； and
trying to start the repairs of the Spartivento land line； which has
been entirely neglected； and no wonder； for no one has been paid
for three months； no； not even the poor guards who have to keep
themselves； their horses and their families； on their pay。
Wednesday morning； I started for Spartivento and got there in time
to try a good many experiments。 Spartivento looks more wild and
savage than ever； but is not without a strange deadly beauty： the
hills covered with bushes of a metallic green with coppery patches
of soil in between； the valleys filled with dry salt mud and a
little stagnant water； where that very morning the deer had drunk；
where herons； curlews； and other fowl abound； and where； alas！
malaria is breeding with this rain。 （No fear for those who do not
sleep on shore。） A little iron hut had been placed there since
1858； but the windows had been carried off； the door broken down；
the roof pierced all over。 In it； we sat to make experiments； and
how it recalled Birkenhead！ There was Thomson； there was my
testing board； the strings of gutta…percha； Harry P… even；
battering with the batteries； but where was my darling Annie？
Whilst I sat feet in sand； with Harry alone inside the hut …mats；
coats； and wood to darken the window … the others visited the
murderous old friar； who is of the order of Scaloppi； and for whom
I brought a letter from his superior； ordering him to pay us
attention； but he was away from home； gone to Cagliari in a boat
with the produce of the farm belonging to his convent。 Then they
visited the tower of Chia； but could not get in because the door is
thirty feet off the ground； so they came back and pitched a
magnificent tent which I brought from the BAHIANA a long time ago …
and where they will live （if I mistake not） in preference to the
friar's； or the owl… and bat…haunted tower。 MM。 T… and S… will be
left there： T…； an intelligent； hard…working Frenchman； with whom
I am well pleased； he can speak English and Italian well； and has
been two years at Genoa。 S… is a French German with a face like an
ancient Gaul； who has been sergeant…major in the French line and
who is； I see； a great； big； muscular FAINEANT。