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she had learnt the English tongue； she told me that she had learnt
it of her mother who was an English woman。 She said that I was two
miles from Llan Rhyadr； and that I must go straight forward。 I did
so till I reached a place where the road branched into two； one
bearing somewhat to the left； and the other to the right。 After
standing a minute in perplexity I took the right…hand road； but
soon guessed that I had taken the wrong one； as the road dwindled
into a mere footpath。 Hearing some one walking on the other side
of the hedge I inquired in Welsh whether I was going right for Llan
Rhyadr； and was answered by a voice in English； apparently that of
a woman； that I was not； and that I must go back。 I did so； and
presently a woman came through a gate to me。
〃Are you the person；〃 said I； 〃who just now answered me in English
after I had spoken in Welsh？〃
〃In truth I am；〃 said she； with a half laugh。
〃And how came you to answer me in English after I had spoken to you
in Welsh？〃
〃Because；〃 said she； 〃it was easy enough to know by your voice that
you were an Englishman。〃
〃You speak English remarkably well；〃 said I。
〃And so do you Welsh；〃 said the woman； 〃I had no idea that it was
possible for any Englishman to speak Welsh half so well。〃
〃I wonder；〃 thought I to myself； 〃what you would have answered if I
had said that you speak English execrably。〃 By her own account she
could read both Welsh and English。 She walked by my side to the
turn； and then up the left…hand road； which she said was the way to
Llan Rhyadr。 Coming to a cottage she bade me good…night and went
in。 The road was horribly miry： presently； as I was staggering
through a slough； just after I had passed a little cottage； I heard
a cracked voice crying； 〃I suppose you lost your way？〃 I
recognised it as that of the old woman whom I had helped over the
stile。 She was now standing behind a little gate which opened into
a garden before the cottage。 The figure of a man was standing near
her。 I told her that she was quite right in her supposition。
〃Ah；〃 said she； 〃you should have gone straight forward。〃
〃If I had gone straight forward；〃 said I； 〃I must have gone over a
hedge； at the corner of a field which separated two roads； instead
of bidding me go straight forward you should have told me to follow
the left…hand road。〃
〃Well；〃 said she； 〃be sure you keep straight forward now。〃
I asked her who the man was standing near her。
〃It is my husband；〃 said she。
〃Has he much English？〃 said I。
〃None at all；〃 said she； 〃for his mother was not English； like
mine。〃 I bade her good…night and went forward。 Presently I came
to a meeting of roads； and to go straight forward it was necessary
to pass through a quagmire； remembering； however； the words of my
friend the beldame I went straight forward； though in so doing I
was sloughed up to the knees。 In a little time I came to rapid
descent； and at the bottom of it to a bridge。 It was now very
dark； only the corner of the moon was casting a faint light。 After
crossing the bridge I had one or two ascents and descents。 At last
I saw lights before me which proved to be those of Llan Rhyadr。 I
soon found myself in a dirty little street； and； inquiring for the
inn； was kindly shown by a man to one which he said was the best；
and which was called the Wynstay Arms。
CHAPTER LXV
Inn at Llan Rhyadr … A low Englishman … Enquiries … The Cook … A
Precious Couple。
THE inn seemed very large； but did not look very cheerful。 No
other guest than myself seemed to be in it； except in the kitchen；
where I heard a fellow talking English and occasionally yelling an
English song： the master and the mistress of the house were civil；
and lighted me a fire in what was called the Commercial Room； and
putting plenty of coals in the grate soon made the apartment warm
and comfortable。 I ordered dinner or rather supper； which in about
half…an…hour was brought in by the woman。 The supper whether good
or bad I despatched with the appetite of one who had walked twenty
miles over hill and dale。
Occasionally I heard a dreadful noise in the kitchen； and the woman
told me that the fellow there was making himself exceedingly
disagreeable； chiefly she believed because she had refused to let
him sleep in the house。 She said that he was a low fellow that
went about the country with fish； and that he was the more ready to
insult her as the master of the house was now gone out。 I asked if
he was an Englishman； 〃Yes；〃 said she； 〃a low Englishman。〃
〃Then he must be low indeed；〃 said I。 〃A low Englishman is the
lowest of the low。〃 After a little time I heard no more noise； and
was told that the fellow was gone away。 I had a little whisky and
water； and then went to bed； sleeping in a tolerable chamber but
rather cold。 There was much rain during the night and also wind；
windows rattled； and I occasionally heard the noise of falling
tiles。
I arose about eight。 Notwithstanding the night had been so
tempestuous the morning was sunshiny and beautiful。 Having ordered
breakfast I walked out in order to look at the town。 Llan Rhyadr
is a small place； having nothing remarkable in it save an ancient
church and a strange little antique market…house； standing on
pillars。 It is situated at the western end of an extensive valley
and at the entrance of a glen。 A brook or rivulet runs through it；
which comes down the glen from the celebrated cataract； which is
about four miles distant to the west。 Two lofty mountains form the
entrance of the glen； and tower above the town； one on the south
and the other on the north。 Their names； if they have any； I did
not learn。
After strolling about the little place for about a quarter of an
hour； staring at the things and the people； and being stared at by
the latter； I returned to my inn； a structure built in the modern
Gothic style； and which stands nearly opposite to the churchyard。
Whilst breakfasting I asked the landlady； who was bustling about
the room； whether she had ever heard of Owen Glendower。
〃In truth； sir； I have。 He was a great gentleman who lived a long
time ago； and； and … 〃
〃Gave the English a great deal of trouble；〃 said I。
〃Just so； sir； at least I daresay it is so； as you say it。〃
〃And do you know where he lived？〃
〃I do not； sir； I suppose a great way off； somewhere in the south。〃
〃Do you mean South Wales？〃
〃In truth； sir； I do。〃
〃There you are mistaken；〃 said I； 〃and also in supposing he lived a
great way off。 He lived in North Wales； and not far from this
place。〃
〃In truth； sir； you know more about him than I。〃
〃Did you ever hear of a place called Sycharth？
〃Sycharth！ Sycharth！ I never did； sir。〃
〃It is the place where Glendower lived； and it is not far off。 I
want to go there； but do not know the way。〃
〃Sycharth！ Sycharth！〃 said the landlady musingly： 〃I wonder if it
is the place we call Sychnant。〃
〃Is there such a place？〃
〃Yes； sure； about six miles from here； near Langedwin。〃
〃What kind of place is it？〃
〃In truth； sir