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the bitterness； do you see； will destroy the worm （11） in the
liver； which learned men say is the cause of the disorder。〃
We left the brook on our left hand and passed by some ruined walls
which my guide informed me had once belonged to houses but were now
used as sheepfolds。 After walking several miles； according to my
computation； we began to ascend a considerable elevation covered
with brown heath and ling。 As we went on the dogs frequently put
up a bird of a black colour； which flew away with a sharp whirr。
〃What bird is that？〃 said I。
〃Ceiliog y grug； the cock of the heath；〃 replied my guide。 〃It is
said to be very good eating； but I have never tasted it。 The
ceiliog y grug is not food for the like of me。 It goes to feed the
rich Saxons in Caer Ludd。〃
We reached the top of the elevation。
〃Yonder；〃 said my guide； pointing to a white bare place a great way
off to the west； 〃is Bala road。〃
〃Then I will not trouble you to go any further；〃 said I； 〃I can
find my way thither。〃
〃No； you could not；〃 said my guide； 〃if you were to make straight
for that place you would perhaps fall down a steep； or sink into a
peat hole up to your middle； or lose your way and never find the
road； for you would soon lose sight of that place。 Follow me； and
I will lead you into a part of the road more to the left； and then
you can find your way easily enough to that bare place； and from
thence to Bala。〃 Thereupon he moved in a southerly direction down
the steep and I followed him。 In about twenty minutes we came to
the road。
〃Now；〃 said my guide； 〃you are on the road； bear to the right and
you cannot miss the way to Bala。〃
〃How far is it to Bala？〃 said I。
〃About twelve miles；〃 he replied。
I gave him a trifle； asking at the same time if it was sufficient。
〃Too much by one…half；〃 he replied； 〃many； many thanks。〃 He then
shook me by the hand； and accompanied by his dogs departed； not
back over the moor； but in a southerly direction down the road。
Wending my course to the north； I came to the white bare spot which
I had seen from the moor； and which was in fact the top of a
considerable elevation over which the road passed。 Here I turned
and looked at the hills I had come across。 There they stood；
darkly blue； a rain cloud； like ink； hanging over their summits。
Oh； the wild hills of Wales； the land of old renown and of wonder；
the land of Arthur and Merlin！
The road now lay nearly due west。 Rain came on； but it was at my
back； so I expanded my umbrella； flung it over my shoulder and
laughed。 Oh； how a man laughs who has a good umbrella when he has
the rain at his back； aye and over his head too； and at all times
when it rains except when the rain is in his face； when the
umbrella is not of much service。 Oh； what a good friend to a man
is an umbrella in rain time； and likewise at many other times。
What need he fear if a wild bull or a ferocious dog attacks him；
provided he has a good umbrella？ He unfurls the umbrella in the
face of the bull or dog； and the brute turns round quite scared；
and runs away。 Or if a footpad asks him for his money； what need
he care provided he has an umbrella？ He threatens to dodge the
ferrule into the ruffian's eye； and the fellow starts back and
says； 〃Lord； sir！ I meant no harm。 I never saw you before in all
my life。 I merely meant a little fun。〃 Moreover； who doubts that
you are a respectable character provided you have an umbrella？ You
go into a public…house and call for a pot of beer； and the publican
puts it down before you with one hand without holding out the other
for the money； for he sees that you have an umbrella and
consequently property。 And what respectable man； when you overtake
him on the way and speak to him； will refuse to hold conversation
with you； provided you have an umbrella？ No one。 The respectable
man sees you have an umbrella； and concludes that you do not intend
to rob him； and with justice； for robbers never carry umbrellas。
Oh； a tent； a shield； a lance； and a voucher for character is an
umbrella。 Amongst the very best friends of man must be reckoned an
umbrella。 （12）
The way lay over dreary； moory hills； at last it began to descend；
and I saw a valley below me with a narrow river running through it；
to which wooded hills sloped down； far to the west were blue
mountains。 The scene was beautiful but melancholy； the rain had
passed away； but a gloomy almost November sky was above； and the
mists of night were coming down apace。
I crossed a bridge at the bottom of the valley and presently saw a
road branching to the right。 I paused； but after a little time
went straight forward。 Gloomy woods were on each side of me and
night had come down。 Fear came upon me that I was not on the right
road； but I saw no house at which I could inquire； nor did I see a
single individual for miles of whom I could ask。 At last I heard
the sound of hatchets in a dingle on my right； and catching a
glimpse of a gate at the head of a path； which led down into it； I
got over it。 After descending some time I hallooed。 The noise of
the hatchets ceased。 I hallooed again； and a voice cried in Welsh；
〃What do you want？〃 〃To know the way to Bala；〃 I replied。 There
was no answer； but presently I heard steps； and the figure of a man
drew nigh； half undistinguishable in the darkness； and saluted me。
I returned his salutation； and told him I wanted to know the way to
Bala。 He told me； and I found I had been going right。 I thanked
him and regained the road。 I sped onward； and in about half…an…
hour saw some houses； then a bridge； then a lake on my left； which
I recognised as the lake of Bala。 I skirted the end of it； and
came to a street cheerfully lighted up； and in a minute more was in
the White Lion Inn。
CHAPTER LXXII
Cheerful Fire … Immense Man … Doctor Jones … Recognition … A Fast
Young Man … Excellent Remarks … Disappointment。
I WAS conducted into the coffee…room of the White Lion by a little
freckled maid whom I saw at the bar； and whom I told that I was
come to pass the night at the inn。 The room presented an agreeable
contrast to the gloomy； desolate places through which I had lately
come。 A good fire blazed in the grate； and there were four lights
on the table。 Lolling in a chair by one side of the fire was an
individual at the sight of whom I almost started。 He was an
immense man； weighing I should say at least eighteen stone； with
brown hair； thinnish whiskers； half…ruddy； half…tallowy complexion；
and dressed in a brown sporting coat； drab breeches； and yellow…
topped boots … in every respect the exact image of the
Wolverhampton gent or hog…merchant who had appeared to me in my
dream at Llangollen； whilst asleep before the fire。 Yes； the very
counterpart of that same gent looked this enormous fellow； save and
except that he did not appear to be more than seven or eight and
twenty； whereas the hog…merchant looked at least fifty。 Laying my
satchel down I took a seat and ordered the maid to get some dinner
for me； and then asked w